Authenticating with a jeweler's loupe

[nat]

"No idea how likely it is for the exact print to be copied/replicated successfully"

It's harder with older cards, because of greater differences in printing technology. Under magnification cards from 86 will look fairly similar to what you could print today, but the further back in time you go the more obvious the differences get.

One thing to look out for is the parts of the card that are supposed to be printed in solid ink versus those that are supposed to have a dot pattern. It's not foolproof, but bad counterfeits will sometimes have dot patterns where there should be solid ink.

[drcy]

What's the magnificatin? 20x, other?

[GasHouseGang]

I've wondered more about trimming. Is it obvious with a loupe? Anyone have a photo example?

[Jgrace]

Originally Posted by GasHouseGang

I've wondered more about trimming. Is it obvious with a loupe? Anyone have a photo example?

Easier on some sets than others. T206s, for example, generally have a distinctive edge from the factory cut that rolls from front to back. Trimming will expose the raw fibers that are visible under a 100x loupe. If I can find that smooth edge on all four sides of a card - even though natural wear may expose fibers in sections - I’m 99% sure it’s not trimmed.

[rsdill2]

Originally Posted by drcy

What's the magnificatin? 20x, other?

I think 10x is typically about right. 20x can be a little too much.

[steve B]

Originally Posted by rsdill2

I think 10x is typically about right. 20x can be a little too much.

It varies from person to person. I use cheap 40X ones. That level of magnification exposes pretty much everything.



Much of figuring out if something is real comes down to experience. I'm fortunate that I began getting serious back when almost no cards were even in holders and anyone who had vintage inventory probably had at least 40-50 cards from a set. It's much easier to learn whats "right" when you have a big fistful to literally handle.

[drcy]

What types/years of cards are you using it on. Knowing that, I can go on with some ideas.

Below is the link to free my guide to authenticating early cards, published by Love of the Game Auctions

Authenticating Early Baseball Cards

[cardsagain74]

Originally Posted by drcy

What types/years of cards are you using it on. Knowing that, I can go on with some ideas.

Below is the link to free my guide to authenticating early cards, published by Love of the Game Auctions

Authenticating Early Baseball Cards

I'm using one of those small Wesley 30x 60x loupes with the tiny LED lights. The smaller magnifying glass hasn't been of much use, but the larger (nickel) size one gets the job done well.

It's for post-war vintage, mostly '48 Bowman through '50s and '60s Topps

Appreciate the link to your book and your other input (both yours and everyone else who has chipped in!)

[drcy]

The guide I linked to will have very useful authentication tips for you, including for without the use of a loupe. The tips apply to Post WII cards such as Topps and Bowman as well.

[Jgrace]

Originally Posted by steve B

It varies from person to person. I use cheap 40X ones. That level of magnification exposes pretty much everything.



Much of figuring out if something is real comes down to experience. I'm fortunate that I began getting serious back when almost no cards were even in holders and anyone who had vintage inventory probably had at least 40-50 cards from a set. It's much easier to learn whats "right" when you have a big fistful to literally handle.

Yeah I have a cheap 100x loupe (small handheld scope with a light, really) and it really tells you everything you need to know. I’m not sure I’d go down to 20x or 10x.