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#1
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What's the magnificatin? 20x, other?
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#2
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I've wondered more about trimming. Is it obvious with a loupe? Anyone have a photo example?
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#3
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![]() Quote:
Easier on some sets than others. T206s, for example, generally have a distinctive edge from the factory cut that rolls from front to back. Trimming will expose the raw fibers that are visible under a 100x loupe. If I can find that smooth edge on all four sides of a card - even though natural wear may expose fibers in sections - I’m 99% sure it’s not trimmed. Last edited by Jgrace; 11-13-2020 at 08:56 AM. |
#4
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![]() I think 10x is typically about right. 20x can be a little too much. |
#5
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Much of figuring out if something is real comes down to experience. I'm fortunate that I began getting serious back when almost no cards were even in holders and anyone who had vintage inventory probably had at least 40-50 cards from a set. It's much easier to learn whats "right" when you have a big fistful to literally handle. |
#6
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What types/years of cards are you using it on. Knowing that, I can go on with some ideas.
Below is the link to free my guide to authenticating early cards, published by Love of the Game Auctions Authenticating Early Baseball Cards |
#7
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![]() Quote:
It's for post-war vintage, mostly '48 Bowman through '50s and '60s Topps Appreciate the link to your book and your other input (both yours and everyone else who has chipped in!) |
#8
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The guide I linked to will have very useful authentication tips for you, including for without the use of a loupe. The tips apply to Post WII cards such as Topps and Bowman as well.
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#9
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I use an Eclipse GemPro loupe. It is the loupe of choice of many graders. Best one I have ever used or seen....
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__________________
Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#10
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![]() Quote:
Yeah I have a cheap 100x loupe (small handheld scope with a light, really) and it really tells you everything you need to know. I’m not sure I’d go down to 20x or 10x. Last edited by Jgrace; 11-13-2020 at 11:25 AM. |
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