Authenticating with a jeweler's loupe

[Tyruscobb]

One method is to submerge the card under water for an extended period. If the card starts to separate, it is real. If it does not, then it is fake.

Another method is to Light the corner on fire. If you see a green flame, the card is real. A blue flame signifies a fake.

Haha. In all seriousness, I do exactly what you are doing - Compare commons with marquee cards under a loupe. I check for print dots, texture, thickness, etc.

This is going to sound weird, but the card must also pass my smell test - a literal, not proverbial, smell test one. Old cardboard has a distinct smell to it, at least it does to me.

[cardsagain74]

Originally Posted by Tyruscobb

One method is to submerge the card under water for an extended period. If the card starts to separate, it is real. If it does not, then it is fake.

Another method is to Light the corner on fire. If you see a green flame, the card is real. A blue flame signifies a fake.

Haha. In all seriousness, I do exactly what you are doing - Compare commons with marquee cards under a loupe. I check for print dots, texture, thickness, etc.

This is going to sound weird, but the card must also pass my smell test - a literal, not proverbial, smell test one. Old cardboard has a distinct smell to it, at least it does to me.

Well my low grade Aaron rookie already has one corner that started to thin or singe or something, so it didn't need the fire test

I try to use those other measures that you mentioned, but it always feels like a best guess situation when you're not experienced in dealing with fakes or reprints. Should order a few for a more direct comparisons. I've read the standard info about them feeling clearly more glossy, but it'd help to actually have something in hand.

From what I can tell, I doubt too many fakes would pass the loupe pixel exam? No idea how likely it is for the exact print to be copied/replicated successfully, but with what I've read about cards like the '51 Bowman Mantle and the '86 Fleer Jordan, that doesn't usually happen

[nat]

"No idea how likely it is for the exact print to be copied/replicated successfully"

It's harder with older cards, because of greater differences in printing technology. Under magnification cards from 86 will look fairly similar to what you could print today, but the further back in time you go the more obvious the differences get.

One thing to look out for is the parts of the card that are supposed to be printed in solid ink versus those that are supposed to have a dot pattern. It's not foolproof, but bad counterfeits will sometimes have dot patterns where there should be solid ink.

[drcy]

What's the magnificatin? 20x, other?

[GasHouseGang]

I've wondered more about trimming. Is it obvious with a loupe? Anyone have a photo example?

[Jgrace]

Originally Posted by GasHouseGang

I've wondered more about trimming. Is it obvious with a loupe? Anyone have a photo example?

Easier on some sets than others. T206s, for example, generally have a distinctive edge from the factory cut that rolls from front to back. Trimming will expose the raw fibers that are visible under a 100x loupe. If I can find that smooth edge on all four sides of a card - even though natural wear may expose fibers in sections - I’m 99% sure it’s not trimmed.

[rsdill2]

Originally Posted by drcy

What's the magnificatin? 20x, other?

I think 10x is typically about right. 20x can be a little too much.

[steve B]

Originally Posted by rsdill2

I think 10x is typically about right. 20x can be a little too much.

It varies from person to person. I use cheap 40X ones. That level of magnification exposes pretty much everything.



Much of figuring out if something is real comes down to experience. I'm fortunate that I began getting serious back when almost no cards were even in holders and anyone who had vintage inventory probably had at least 40-50 cards from a set. It's much easier to learn whats "right" when you have a big fistful to literally handle.

[drcy]

What types/years of cards are you using it on. Knowing that, I can go on with some ideas.

Below is the link to free my guide to authenticating early cards, published by Love of the Game Auctions

Authenticating Early Baseball Cards

[Jgrace]

Originally Posted by steve B

It varies from person to person. I use cheap 40X ones. That level of magnification exposes pretty much everything.



Much of figuring out if something is real comes down to experience. I'm fortunate that I began getting serious back when almost no cards were even in holders and anyone who had vintage inventory probably had at least 40-50 cards from a set. It's much easier to learn whats "right" when you have a big fistful to literally handle.

Yeah I have a cheap 100x loupe (small handheld scope with a light, really) and it really tells you everything you need to know. I’m not sure I’d go down to 20x or 10x.