You should be able to tell the difference between a 5 up to a 7 with raw cards, and what they will get if graded most of the time - or what certain raw cards like that online would grade. If graded properly, there is a big difference between a 5 and a 7, and usually a 7 and most 8's. Granted you have to take this with a grain of salt; it's why the phrase "buy the card and not the grade" exists. But generally, if you've gotten a card that is not massively undergraded or was subject to some of the alteration scandal hocus pocus, then I think it's fair to say you should easily see the difference in a 7 vs. a 5 or so, even when buying online.
If your aim is to shop for raw cards and never pay more than a PSA 4 price, that will likely work in many cases - although as was alluded certain sellers who are very well known to grade raw cards accurately (i.e. Greg Morris...) and those cards will be bid up to very competitive prices, especially if you are talking about vintage rookies and HOF'ers. I have seen even lesser known sellers get very competitive prices on raw vintage cards - it's amazing what really good lighting and pictures / detailed scans can do for people who know how to use that to their advantage.
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets.
Last edited by jchcollins; 12-21-2020 at 08:21 AM.
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