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#1
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I'm not a fan of shilling but if that was a card I wanted I would set a snipe at the number I'm comfortable, and at the same time notify Rick about the activity. He may ban those bidders and you might get the card at a good price. Worst case scenario you pay what your comfortable paying for the card.
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#2
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One shiller, Joseph M Pankiewicz, would buy cards on eBay, consign them to Rick and bid on his own cards. This was clearly evident from the bid history. This was all done by username and feedback, but again, eBay has decided they want to protect shillers and that is no longer possible. At the time, it was brought to Rick's attention, he chose to do nothing about it. Last time I looked, he still allows Panky to consign. |
#3
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Hi David: I'm new but have been reading the board for around a year and have read all those threads. I just can get myself worked up about shilling. That said, I collect mostly hockey HOF rookies - which is why i don't post often-and mostly mid grade so shilling isn't as big an issue as it is in the baseball world.
My style is closer to MattyC's, I don't get too caught up in all the BS that comes with the hobby, it's a chance for me to get away from a very competitive/high paced career that comes with all the BS I can handle. |
#4
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What do you think of this business plan:
--Buy raw cards with minor flaws --"Improve" raw cards --Get them slabbed --Consign to Probstein --Shill auctions --repeat Did I miss any steps?
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Read my blog; it will make all your dreams come true. https://adamstevenwarshaw.substack.com/ Or not... |
#5
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#6
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You missed the parallel step of buying centered slabbed cards with minor flaws and "improving" them.
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Net 54-- the discussion board where people resent discussions. ![]() My avatar is a sketch by my son who is an art school graduate. Some of his sketches and paintings are at https://www.jamesspaethartwork.com/ |
#7
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I have gotten good deals on some SGC/PSA graded pre war cards in his auctions & am happy there is someone who does the 99cent auction daily the way he does. I have noticed his consignment rates are perhaps the lowest in the indusry as well.
Shilling indeed sucks.....But I am still trying to deal with Hal Chase being banned for fixing games 100 years ago. Paul C |
#8
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Anyone that has VCP access and is following certain cards know that for every shilled auction, there is some idiot pulling the trigger on a BIN at 30% over the previous sale. Which is why I don't lose any sleep over this - it's impossible for me to pay more than I'm comfortable with a card because I simply don't pay more than I am comfortable for card (or a car, dishwasher or deck reno). |
#9
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[QUOTE=japhi;1270857]
Anyone that has VCP access and is following certain cards know that for every shilled auction, there is some idiot pulling the trigger on a BIN at 30% over the previous sale. QUOTE] I will take exception to this comment. I have been that "idiot", as I am sure MANY here have been as well. When I knowingly overpay on a BIN, it's because I want/need that card, and at that time, that price is what that card is worth. And if I deem that card is worth that amount, well, than that is an accurate reading on value. ANY card is only worth what someone is willing to pay, not what any VCP or any "guide" is reporting. I often times see these guides oblivious to market realities...I see it in reverse all the time as well, our own B/S/T always has sought after cards under the "VCP" price, advertised as such, and not get a second look. Supply and demand dictate price, and often times the demand for an overpriced BIN is purchased because there is no supply to fuel the demand. Calling that purchaser an "idiot" is ignorant.
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John Otto 1963 Fleer - 1981-90 Fleer/Donruss/Score/Leaf Complete 1953 - 1990 Topps/Bowman Complete 1953-55 Dormand SGC COMPLETE SGC AVG Score - 4.03 1953 Bowman Color - 122/160 76% |
#10
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[QUOTE=Harliduck;1270883]
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I personally think viewing card values exclusively through the prism of numerical grades and VCP grids is myopic. In my opinion, all cards in the same grade are not equal, and so it makes sense that they should not sell for equal values. If one expects to pay "VCP average" for a card in GRADE X that makes all others in its grade (and some even above) look like dog meat, one is doomed to never have the pleasure of owning that card. The previous sale may have been of an overgraded card with heinous eye appeal. As you said, a card is "worth" whatever one is willing to pay. There is no set value, ever. Each card has its own attributes, even if the sticker is identical to another sticker. Grades can be identical but cards are not. There are collectors who buy the card, and thus with no two specimens of the same card being identical, the prices-- to collectors with this view-- won't be identical either. That said, if another collector believes all cards in GRADE X should sell for exactly the same number, to each his own and let every collector be happy. Last edited by MattyC; 04-30-2014 at 10:33 AM. |
#11
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[QUOTE=Harliduck;1270883]
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My point was collectors pay inflated prices all the time, be it through shilling, BIN's, or just plain ignorance. We've seen lots of threads that show where a buyer pays more for a card from a consignor like PWCC or Probstein than a similar copy available at a lower BIN or an auction that closed a few days earlier that was half the price. As long as the collector is happy with his purchase I don't care if the auction was shilled, a stupid high BIN or an over graded card. Buyer beware and all that. |
#12
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--Profit
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#13
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zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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Now watch what you say, or they'll be calling you a radical, a liberal, oh, fanatical, criminal Won't you sign up your name? We'd like to feel you're acceptable, respectable, presentable, a vegetable If we are to have another contest in the near future of our national existence, I predict that the dividing line will not be Mason and Dixon's but between patriotism and intelligence on the one side, and superstition, ambition and ignorance on the other.- Ulysses S. Grant, 18th US President. |
#14
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#15
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__________________
Building these sets: T206, 1953 Bowman Color, 1975 Topps. Great transactions with: piedmont150, Cardboard Junkie, z28jd, t206blogcom, tinkertoeverstochance, trobba, Texxxx, marcdelpercio, t206hound, zachs, tolstoi, IronHorse 2130, AndyG09, BBT206, jtschantz, lug-nut, leaflover, Abravefan11, mpemulis, btcarfagno, BlueSky, and Frankbmd. |
#16
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My point was very simple; I pay what I'm comfortable - and usually less, I only snipe and I do quite a bit of research before sniping. If there is a card I'm chasing that sells for 400 bucks in a good looking PSA 6 than I set my snipe for 400 bucks, usually less. When I win I generally win below the comparable. I lose way more auctions than I win. Obviously this way of buying won't work on cards that only come up once a year but I don't play in that sandbox. If you have a strategy for paying less for cards on Ebay I'm all ears. PS. good discussion, I mostly lurk as I can't add much value to threads, which may in fact be the case with this thread as well! Last edited by japhi; 04-30-2014 at 11:33 AM. |
#17
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To borrow your earlier metaphor, I think if one plays in the pre-war and vintage sandbox long enough, eventually we're all going to be exposed to shill bidding, much like if we buy enough cards, graded or not, eventually we're going to get a card that has been slightly trimmed, or altered in some other manner. It's a product of being in a hobby with a lot of money trading hands, and unscrupulous people who want an ever increasing share. I agree with your comment about this being a good discussion. Ultimately, we may not accomplish anything, but as Leon said, it's important to keep these things visible. ![]()
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Building these sets: T206, 1953 Bowman Color, 1975 Topps. Great transactions with: piedmont150, Cardboard Junkie, z28jd, t206blogcom, tinkertoeverstochance, trobba, Texxxx, marcdelpercio, t206hound, zachs, tolstoi, IronHorse 2130, AndyG09, BBT206, jtschantz, lug-nut, leaflover, Abravefan11, mpemulis, btcarfagno, BlueSky, and Frankbmd. |
#18
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Thanks Bill, I didn't think you were accusing me of anything and wasn't offended at all.
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#19
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/calvindog/sets |
#20
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#21
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It typically sells for $200 because it's shilled every time. Ever think that maybe your valuations are skewered because of fraud? As for a solution to get fair market value, the crooked ebay sellers with the miraculously fortuitous under bidders who never win an auction but whose bids are 95% with the sellers need to be removed. I've represented some eBay sellers who have been kicked off despite high sales. It does happen.
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/calvindog/sets |
#22
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3/2/14 eBay Listing | Image rcdevil s***s Best Offer $5,200.00 6/12/13 eBay Image prewarcardcollector l***v 35 $4,901.00 1/31/12 eBay Image exchefy1 t***i Best Offer $7,000.00 1/27/12 Mile High Image 12 $5,483.52 5/2/10 REA Image 21 $5,287.50 10/14/07 eBay Image jtn2000 gomaz 24 $5,801.00 8/31/07 Mastro 29 $5,251.20 There is a pretty defined market value for this card; BIN or Auction, Ebay or AH, this is a $5200 card. Did shilling set an inflated price? Possibly, but today I'm going to have to pop around 5200 bucks to buy this card, shill or no shill. We are in complete agreement that bid retractors are losers and Ebay should manage to it. I spend a shit ton on Ebay and never have retracted a bid, and have only returned 1 card in the last 5 years. |
#23
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Here is another view of how prices may be affected by bidders. (I think this was discussed in a thread several years ago.) Let's say that I paid $5k for a certain card in a certain grade and the VCP average supports that price. Now I see a similar card on ebay and it is a few hours from closing and the price is $2k. So, I am thinking, I can't let this card go for $2k because that will bring the VCP average down and my card will be "worth" less, so I keep bidding it up to protect the value of my original card.
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Rick McQuillan T213-2 139 down 46 to go. |
#24
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I just can't see someone throwing up a bid on a card to keep the VCP price up knowing that they could possibly "win" the card. |
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