Set builders: What condition do you shoot for?

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

I am interested in building 60s baseball sets. While I haven't quite settled on one, I am thinking about 1966 or 1967 and all the associated high number craziness. About what condition do you 60s set builders shoot for? I have built some 60s football sets, and there are a lot of exmt cards in those sets. However, the 60s baseball sets have 600 cards. That is a lot of cards (including high numbers), and my budget probably couldn't sustain that...or it would take forever. I am not looking to do beaters either, but I am thinking I will have to give in on condition to finish these bigger sets. I still don't want creases, and my OCD might do me in if I attempted 66, given the centering. Are you guys overly choosy?

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[vintagetoppsguy]

Originally Posted by vintagebaseballcardguy

I am interested in building 60s baseball sets. While I haven't quite settled on one, I am thinking about 1966 or 1967 and all the associated high number craziness. About what condition do you 60s set builders shoot for? I have built some 60s football sets, and there are a lot of exmt cards in those sets. However, the 60s baseball sets have 600 cards. That is a lot of cards (including high numbers), and my budget probably couldn't sustain that...or it would take forever. I am not looking to do beaters either, but I am thinking I will have to give in on condition to finish these bigger sets. I still don't want creases, and my OCD might do me in if I attempted 66, given the centering. Are you guys overly choosy?

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For '66 or '67, my main focus would be on centering with Ex+ to Ex/Mt corners...maybe Ex on the high numbers.

[frankhardy]

I do "presentable low grade". I have been able to finish many more sets than I would if I was too picky. That's just me, though.

I have been able to complete my Topps sets (base and update/traded) from 2017 down to 1965....and I have 1964 about 2/3 done.

[jasonc]

Robert,

That's a good question. Personally since I'm a collector, for those years, I probably look for presentable VG condition. A very minor crease and slightly softer corners are ok (something that looks good from the distance of you viewing them in pages, etc.)

I do likes the look of the 1967 set, nice player selection as well. If I was building a post war set, that's the one I'd go for. Of Course, you can't go wrong with 1966.

I am in prewar mode right now, for those sets I settle on condition much less.

Good Luck on whatever you decide.

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

Frankhardy and Jason, you guys hit on what I was trying to get at. These are just for me as a collector. I have come to enjoy collecting and set building more than I can say. I have reasoned to myself that if I would give in on condition a little, I could move so much more quickly. What David said about ex and exmt is my default. I know it sounds nuts, but that would be a hard default for me to change. I know if I adjusted to say vgex to some ex, it would make a pretty big difference in the money I was spending and, therefore, the progress would accelerate.

What I need to do is pick a set and build it a little lower grade than I am used to and kind of try that on and see how it feels. Thanks for the input, guys.

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[clydepepper]

NM/MT for modern,
EX/MT for post-war,
EX for pre-war

[wdwfan]

I'm not condition sensitive at all, so Ex will work just fine for me on any/all sets.

I'm not the type that has to have NM-Mt for my 1950s-1960s sets.

As far as trading, I don't ever trade anything with creases/paper loss. If I get any cards that have pin holes or crease/bends or paper loss, they go straight into the trash. I don't want those, so wouldn't trade those either.

[Econteachert205]

nm or better for 1976 on

exmnt or better for 1968-75

I don't do sets before 68. Too expensive

[Bkrum]

In the 80s centering wasn’t such a big deal. Now it’s an incredibly big deal. If you collect raw sets you could give a little on the centering you could put together great looking sets without breaking the bank. IMHO

[Big Six]

Originally Posted by clydepepper

NM/MT for modern,

EX/MT for post-war,

EX for pre-war

I look for VG to VG/EX for pre-war, otherwise same...


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[skil55voy]

I collect Detroit Tiger team sets. 1975 and up EX-MT. 1954 to 1975 I try to get nice cards with fairly sharp corners, which I would say most of the time would be PSA 5-6 if I got them graded.

My main focus is Post Cereal and Jell-O 1961-1963. I am particular about condition. I will always buy cards that are cut outside the border. I try to buy cards that have full black border and will buy cards that are cut nice with some black borders. Since I am building master sets, I may buy some that have creases or soft corners if they are from the not popular cereal or Jell-O boxes. I don't care if the cards have writing or glue stains on the blank back since it does not deter from the front of the card. (Glue stains from the factory identify which box the cards were on.)

As far as the 62 Jell-O cards. I buy them if they are cut straight, as they are extremely difficult to get with black borders.

[Stampsfan]

Personally I'll give a little on centering if the condition is nice. I know it's not the norm, but I'd rather have a card in slightly better condition, than something beaten and centered. Some of the best bargains I have found are PSA 8 (OC), especially if the OC is more top to bottom. They will cost me less than a straight 6 at times.

Like others, as a set collector, I have some sets from the 30's that are VG at best. It really depends on the set, how much I am prepared to spend, and if I would be happy with the result. Nothing wrong with a good run of EX-MT sets from the 60's. They look beautiful, and IMHO will still hold their value.