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#1
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NM/MT for modern,
EX/MT for post-war, EX for pre-war
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. "A life is not important except in the impact it has on others lives" - Jackie Robinson “If you have a chance to make life better for others and fail to do so, you are wasting your time on this earth.”- Roberto Clemente |
#2
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I'm not condition sensitive at all, so Ex will work just fine for me on any/all sets.
I'm not the type that has to have NM-Mt for my 1950s-1960s sets. As far as trading, I don't ever trade anything with creases/paper loss. If I get any cards that have pin holes or crease/bends or paper loss, they go straight into the trash. I don't want those, so wouldn't trade those either.
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#3
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nm or better for 1976 on
exmnt or better for 1968-75 I don't do sets before 68. Too expensive |
#4
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In the 80s centering wasn’t such a big deal. Now it’s an incredibly big deal. If you collect raw sets you could give a little on the centering you could put together great looking sets without breaking the bank. IMHO
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#5
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![]() I look for VG to VG/EX for pre-war, otherwise same... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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M@tt McC@arthy I collect Hal Chase, Diamond Stars (PSA 5 or better), 1951 Bowman (Raw Ex or better), 1954 Topps (PSA 7 or better), 1956 Topps (Raw Ex or better), 3x5 Hall of Fame Autographs and autographed Perez Steele Postcards. You can see my collection by going to http://www.collectorfocus.com/collection/BigSix. |
#6
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I collect Detroit Tiger team sets. 1975 and up EX-MT. 1954 to 1975 I try to get nice cards with fairly sharp corners, which I would say most of the time would be PSA 5-6 if I got them graded.
My main focus is Post Cereal and Jell-O 1961-1963. I am particular about condition. I will always buy cards that are cut outside the border. I try to buy cards that have full black border and will buy cards that are cut nice with some black borders. Since I am building master sets, I may buy some that have creases or soft corners if they are from the not popular cereal or Jell-O boxes. I don't care if the cards have writing or glue stains on the blank back since it does not deter from the front of the card. (Glue stains from the factory identify which box the cards were on.) As far as the 62 Jell-O cards. I buy them if they are cut straight, as they are extremely difficult to get with black borders. |
#7
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Personally I'll give a little on centering if the condition is nice. I know it's not the norm, but I'd rather have a card in slightly better condition, than something beaten and centered. Some of the best bargains I have found are PSA 8 (OC), especially if the OC is more top to bottom. They will cost me less than a straight 6 at times.
Like others, as a set collector, I have some sets from the 30's that are VG at best. It really depends on the set, how much I am prepared to spend, and if I would be happy with the result. Nothing wrong with a good run of EX-MT sets from the 60's. They look beautiful, and IMHO will still hold their value.
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#8
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