Card soaking - the results!

[BillyCoxDodgers3B]

Originally Posted by bobbyw8469

I think this is awesome. That being said, I am totally terrified of submerging a card under water. Totally.

If that's a fear you want to conquer, these cheap non-sport cards would help you overcome it! You wouldn't have to "graduate" to expensive material if you didn't want to, and it might just turn your fear into a fun project.

[FrankWakefield]

Well done, Jim. And thank you for the "Results".

Thoughts to consider:
Soaking that card, the entire card, would be safe because the card isn't going to instantly disolve, the card is porous, and the glue isn't just on the surface of the back, a bit is likely to have soaked in... so soaking the entire card lets that 'inside' glue migrate out while immersed in water.

Q-Tips... Q-Tips are fine, but if a longer soaking (10 minutes is very short soak) allows the glue to release, then let soaking do more of the work and you can minimize the Q-Tip scrubbing.

[steve B]

We had a very acidic scrapbook that was almost entirely trade cards. It was bad enough that the pages cracked when turning them making damage to the cards likely.

That was fun soaking, probably close to 100 cards, some closer to T3 size and thin.

Just letting the water do its thing made it easy.

[Vintagedeputy]

Originally Posted by FrankWakefield

Well done, Jim. And thank you for the "Results".

Thoughts to consider:
Soaking that card, the entire card, would be safe because the card isn't going to instantly disolve, the card is porous, and the glue isn't just on the surface of the back, a bit is likely to have soaked in... so soaking the entire card lets that 'inside' glue migrate out while immersed in water.

Q-Tips... Q-Tips are fine, but if a longer soaking (10 minutes is very short soak) allows the glue to release, then let soaking do more of the work and you can minimize the Q-Tip scrubbing.

In hindsight, the Q-tip scrubbing was probably unnecessary. I just wanted to ensure that no goop remained. The water did remarkably well.

[Texxxx]

I have soaked several scrap books loose. It is amazing how resilient the cards are. I have soaked some as long as 24 hours to get them to loosen with no harm. I use Q-tips and cotton balls to clean extra glue off. Just dry them between 2 sheets of white paper inside a book with weight on them so they don't get waves in them.

[Vintagedeputy]

Here’s the final verdict from SGC:

[FrankWakefield]

I know you were anxious about the process, you did well.

jjBond, if you only get the back wet, then the "dry" side of the card would wick the glue/paste/water fluid further into the cardstock... that's not what you want.

That card looks great! Congratulations!

[Vintagedeputy]

Originally Posted by FrankWakefield

I know you were anxious about the process, you did well.

jjBond, if you only get the back wet, then the "dry" side of the card would wick the glue/paste/water fluid further into the cardstock... that's not what you want.

That card looks great! Congratulations!

Thank you!!!! I’m very pleased.

[Leon]

Originally Posted by Vintagedeputy

Here’s the final verdict from SGC:

Nice bath. Congrats!
.

[Chris-Counts]

Here are a couple 1941 Play Ball cards that I successfully soaked out of a scrapbook.

[Vintagedeputy]

Originally Posted by Leon

Nice bath. Congrats!
.

Thanks, Leon!

[Snowman]

Originally Posted by Vintagedeputy

In hindsight, the Q-tip scrubbing was probably unnecessary. I just wanted to ensure that no goop remained. The water did remarkably well.

In the rare case where a Q-tip is necessary, you definitely don't want to scrub with it. Just gently roll it across the surface first, underwater.

Also, if you're going to be soaking more cards in the future, you should get yourself a roll of the Viva Signature Cloth paper towels. They're the best option for the drying phase, IMO.

[Snowman]

Originally Posted by FrankWakefield

Well done, Jim. And thank you for the "Results".

Thoughts to consider:
Soaking that card, the entire card, would be safe because the card isn't going to instantly disolve, the card is porous, and the glue isn't just on the surface of the back, a bit is likely to have soaked in... so soaking the entire card lets that 'inside' glue migrate out while immersed in water.

Q-Tips... Q-Tips are fine, but if a longer soaking (10 minutes is very short soak) allows the glue to release, then let soaking do more of the work and you can minimize the Q-Tip scrubbing.

^^^This! 100%

Don't be afraid to let the card soak much longer. You don't want to have to scrub the surface at all if you don't have to. You will almost certainly cause damage even if you think you're being extremely gentle. If the glue is water solube, then let the water do its job. You usually don't need to assist it. I've soaked cards for an entire week before. You're not going to damage it by soaking it for a few hours, or even overnight.

However, some cards will get damaged if you soak them for multiple days. Just depends on the card stock. I wouldn't soak a 52 or 53 Topps for days, but you could soak a 54 Topps for a month.

[bnorth]

Originally Posted by Snowman

^^^This! 100%

Don't be afraid to let the card soak much longer. You don't want to have to scrub the surface at all if you don't have to. You will almost certainly cause damage even if you think you're being extremely gentle. If the glue is water solube, then let the water do its job. You usually don't need to assist it. I've soaked cards for an entire week before. You're not going to damage it by soaking it for a few hours, or even overnight.

However, some cards will get damaged if you soak them for multiple days. Just depends on the card stock. I wouldn't soak a 52 or 53 Topps for days, but you could soak a 54 Topps for a month.

Always test a cheap common before a HOFer if you have never tried soaking that year of card before. How long you can soak a card varies greatly by year/brand.

To the OP, very nice result. The card looks amazing.

[Vintagedeputy]

Originally Posted by bnorth

Always test a cheap common before a HOFer if you have never tried soaking that year of card before. How long you can soak a card varies greatly by year/brand.

To the OP, very nice result. The card looks amazing.

Thank you, Ben!

[bobbyw8469]

Do you think the warm water made a difference or would cold have worked just as good?

[Vintagedeputy]

Originally Posted by bobbyw8469

Do you think the warm water made a difference or would cold have worked just as good?

I 100% believe that you need to use warm water, if not hot to get the glue to loosen up.

[Snowman]

Originally Posted by bobbyw8469

Do you think the warm water made a difference or would cold have worked just as good?

Warm water always works better/faster. I use a machine-washable heat pad when I soak cards. I just place it underneath the Pyrex containers I use and wrap it around. Works great. And I'll put a couple of dice or poker chips on the cards to keep them submerged in the water until they're fully soiled. Usually, you can take those off after a few minutes and the card won't float after that (again, depending on the card stock; as some cards are floaters no matter how long they've been submerged).

Here are some pics of my setup and a link to the heat pad I use as well as the 4x6 glass containers I use.

https://www.amazon.com/Pure-Enrichme.../dp/B01KVYTV86

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C5LZ4GX


...