Card soaking - the results!

[Snowman]

Originally Posted by FrankWakefield

Well done, Jim. And thank you for the "Results".

Thoughts to consider:
Soaking that card, the entire card, would be safe because the card isn't going to instantly disolve, the card is porous, and the glue isn't just on the surface of the back, a bit is likely to have soaked in... so soaking the entire card lets that 'inside' glue migrate out while immersed in water.

Q-Tips... Q-Tips are fine, but if a longer soaking (10 minutes is very short soak) allows the glue to release, then let soaking do more of the work and you can minimize the Q-Tip scrubbing.

^^^This! 100%

Don't be afraid to let the card soak much longer. You don't want to have to scrub the surface at all if you don't have to. You will almost certainly cause damage even if you think you're being extremely gentle. If the glue is water solube, then let the water do its job. You usually don't need to assist it. I've soaked cards for an entire week before. You're not going to damage it by soaking it for a few hours, or even overnight.

However, some cards will get damaged if you soak them for multiple days. Just depends on the card stock. I wouldn't soak a 52 or 53 Topps for days, but you could soak a 54 Topps for a month.

[bnorth]

Originally Posted by Snowman

^^^This! 100%

Don't be afraid to let the card soak much longer. You don't want to have to scrub the surface at all if you don't have to. You will almost certainly cause damage even if you think you're being extremely gentle. If the glue is water solube, then let the water do its job. You usually don't need to assist it. I've soaked cards for an entire week before. You're not going to damage it by soaking it for a few hours, or even overnight.

However, some cards will get damaged if you soak them for multiple days. Just depends on the card stock. I wouldn't soak a 52 or 53 Topps for days, but you could soak a 54 Topps for a month.

Always test a cheap common before a HOFer if you have never tried soaking that year of card before. How long you can soak a card varies greatly by year/brand.

To the OP, very nice result. The card looks amazing.

[Vintagedeputy]

Originally Posted by bnorth

Always test a cheap common before a HOFer if you have never tried soaking that year of card before. How long you can soak a card varies greatly by year/brand.

To the OP, very nice result. The card looks amazing.

Thank you, Ben!

[bobbyw8469]

Do you think the warm water made a difference or would cold have worked just as good?

[Vintagedeputy]

Originally Posted by bobbyw8469

Do you think the warm water made a difference or would cold have worked just as good?

I 100% believe that you need to use warm water, if not hot to get the glue to loosen up.

[Snowman]

Originally Posted by bobbyw8469

Do you think the warm water made a difference or would cold have worked just as good?

Warm water always works better/faster. I use a machine-washable heat pad when I soak cards. I just place it underneath the Pyrex containers I use and wrap it around. Works great. And I'll put a couple of dice or poker chips on the cards to keep them submerged in the water until they're fully soiled. Usually, you can take those off after a few minutes and the card won't float after that (again, depending on the card stock; as some cards are floaters no matter how long they've been submerged).

Here are some pics of my setup and a link to the heat pad I use as well as the 4x6 glass containers I use.

https://www.amazon.com/Pure-Enrichme.../dp/B01KVYTV86

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C5LZ4GX


...

[FrankWakefield]

As the temperature of the water increases, so does the possibility of fading the ink on the front. That's my experience. I use tap water and patience. (My tap water is ok, I happily drink it; buying distilled water is overkill.)