What’s an acceptable grade for vintage cards?

[JollyElm]

Get ready for a slew of trite responses telling you to, “Buy the card, not the slab,” “Collect whatever makes you happy,” etc.

[Cmvorce]

I think it depends on what your goal is and what you can afford. My ultimate goal is a complete set run of Topps 1952 - present. I’d love for every card to be near mint but that’s unrealistic with my budget.

Most of my 50s and 60s cards are in the FR to VG range if raw or 2 - 4 if graded. I think there are plenty of cards out there in PSA 1.5 or 2 slabs that look just fine for my collection. I’m more about consistency in my collection. The majority of my graded 52 Topps are PSA 2 - 3. My 1954 Topps are SGC 2.5.

My 70s - present cards are all raw but are generally consistent in their condition. Early 70s mostly GD / VG working up to Mint in the mid 80s and beyond.

All my prewar stuff is PSA 1-2. It’s all I can afford if I plan on getting everything I want and I’m ok with that.

I don’t think there is a universally acceptable response.

[swarmee]

The higher the PSA grade, the more likely it's actually altered and should be a 0.5. And day by day, as cards are exposed on Blowout, your "high grade" cards turn into pumpkins at midnight and you have to keep fooling yourself that PSA is actually a reputable company.

[bobsbbcards]

This is what I shoot for.

T206 - PSA 4
1941 Play Ball - PSA 6
1948....er....49 Leaf - PSA 5-7
1948 thru 1951 Bowman - PSA 7 (1951 Mantle is a 6)
1952 Bowman - PSA 8
1953 Bowman Color - PSA 8 (except for Whitey)
1953 Bowman B&W thru 1955 Bowman - PSA 7
1951 Topps Red/Blue Backs - PSA 8
1952 Topps - PSA 6
1953 thru 1956 Topps - PSA 7
1957 Topps - PSA 8
1958 thru 1959 Topps - PSA 7
1960 thru 1961 Topps - PSA 8
1962 Topps - PSA 7
1963 thru 1967 Topps - PSA 8
1968 Topps - PSA 9 (except Ryan)
1969 thru 1970 Topps - PSA 8
1971 Topps - PSA 7
1972 thru 1979 Topps - PSA 8

For subsets it varies greatly. Some, such as the 1951 Topps Team cards in PSA 5 are pricey enough. For others, such as 1959 Bazooka, authentic suits me just fine. I like cards that look nice in the holder, but I won't pay extra for "OMG, that's the best freaking card I've ever seen in my life can I give you my children and a stack o' dead presidents for it?!?!?"

[ALR-bishop]

I think your response exceeded trite Bob

[ASF123]

Originally Posted by JollyElm

Get ready for a slew of trite responses telling you to, “Buy the card, not the slab,” “Collect whatever makes you happy,” etc.

I'm gonna go with "Al clearly has a lot more money to spend on cards than I do."

[Gorditadogg]

I generally like mid-grade raw cards, but as you say it depends on the years.

I am fine with VG/EX to EX for 30's, 40's and early 50's, and EX to XMT on late 50's. For 60's cards I collect XMT to NM, and 70's it is NM to NMM.