What’s an acceptable grade for vintage cards?

[IgnatiusJReilly]

This is a fun topic. Setting aside extremely difficult sets and caveats about eye appeal, this is how it breaks down for me:

T206 - 1941 PB : 2-4 [*very* eye appeal dependent]
1948/49 Leaf - 1955 Topps : 5
1956 Topps - 1961 Topps : 6
1962 Topps - 1967 Topps : 7
1968 Topps - 1977 Topps: 8
1978 Topps - 1986 Topps: 9
1987 Topps - Current: 9-10

Of course there are tons of exceptions blah, blah, blah, but if I were to coarse grain average over my collection this is what would come out. I don't have the nicest collection but I think the cost-benefit balance is struck well for me with that breakdown.

[G1911]

P-vg+, raw. Any higher than that, and I’d be happier with a lower grade card that brings me the exact same joy as a card with sharp corners, and pocket the cost difference. Cards I have in nicer condition are always available for downgrading. Cards in slabs are cracked out or flipped for the same card without a case that costs far less for the exact same thing.

[homerunderby]

I'll go EX to EXMT for 50's and 60's, VG or better pre-war. Mostly raw unless I get a deal on a slab (which I promptly break out of the slab so I can display it in my binders).

Sometimes I'll tolerate even P-F for rarities like 1964 Topps Venezuelan.

I only collect Yankees.

[thatkidfromjerrymaguire]

For me, EX is the perfect condition for postwar cards....they are crease free, mark free, and typically have good overall eye appeal...and can be found cheaper (and more easily) then NM versions of the same card.

But, when it comes to vintage cards, pretty much ANYTHING goes. There is a sizable market for ALL grades. Unlike modern where nobody really seems to want anything less than NM or Mint, there are enough low grade collectors in the market that you can typically sell/trade anything you decide to part with if you change your focus, direction, etc.

[rugbymarine]

Originally Posted by IgnatiusJReilly

This is a fun topic. Setting aside extremely difficult sets and caveats about eye appeal, this is how it breaks down for me:

T206 - 1941 PB : 2-4 [*very* eye appeal dependent]
1948/49 Leaf - 1955 Topps : 5
1956 Topps - 1961 Topps : 6
1962 Topps - 1967 Topps : 7
1968 Topps - 1977 Topps: 8
1978 Topps - 1986 Topps: 9
1987 Topps - Current: 9-10

Of course there are tons of exceptions blah, blah, blah, but if I were to coarse grain average over my collection this is what would come out. I don't have the nicest collection but I think the cost-benefit balance is struck well for me with that breakdown.

This is close to my thoughts. I tend to aim a little lower in some areas (Pre-war) and maybe higher elsewhere with specific cards.

I have another general guideline that I follow: I aim for the NICEST looking card I can afford between $100 - $250. For most cards in the era I collect the most (post-war vintage), that means there's a nice range of grades/condition that I can look for. I'm even fine buying a lower grade card if I think it looks nice than the one I already have. This price range does not apply to key cards to your collection (Ruth, Jackie, Mantle, pre-war, most HOF RC before 1960,.....you get the idea).

As much as I can, before I buy, or aggressively bid on, a card, I'll ask myself, "In a year, will I want to upgrade this card?" If the answer to that question is anything but definitely NOT, I usually won't go for the card. It's kind of hard to explain, but I guess that's why this question has so many different answers.

[Bestdj777]

I generally shoot for a PSA 1 or PSA A or ungraded.

[Popcorn]

I’m cool with beaters. Never been a condition snob.

[vintagebaseballcardguy]

I used to think I had to have cards that were in really top condition. As I have aged, I have gradually lowered what I felt like I had to have. Now, I'm to the point that I am content as long as the card is whole. I prefer no writing or staining on the front or paper loss. Outside of that, I am pretty satisfied to own a copy of a given card. All in all, I like set building, and there are so many sets I'd like to build before I am done. If I am too picky about condition, most of those sets will never happen for me.

[Kutcher55]

There's no right or wrong answer here. Some guys like cards that others wouldn't condescend to use as toilet paper. It depends on your budget as well as how you choose to allocate the funds that are disposable to you. It also depends on your overall goals are as a collector and if you're trying to make $ or hold the cards until you pass on, or somewhere in between.

[bmattioli]

I'll take any card I don't have regardless of condition. I'm currently working on the '53 Topps set and I'll take any grade to complete it. Send me your beaters LOL..