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#1
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Dan, now that is clear that you have a personal issue with SGC, can you share what exactly that is? Do you believe HGA and CSG will have the same resale value of PSA?
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Deals Done: GrayGhost, Count76, mybuddyinc, banksfan14, boysblue, Sverteramo, rocuan, rootsearcher60, GoldenAge50s, pt7464, trdcrdkid, T206.org, bnorth, frankrizzo29, David Atkatz, Johnny630, cardsamillion, SPMIDD, esehombre, bbsports, babraham, RhodeyRhode, Nate Adams, OhioCardCollector, ejstel, Golfcollector, Luke, 53toppscollector, benge610, Lunker21, VintageCardCo, jmanners51, T206CollectorVince, wrm, hockeyhockey Collecting: T206 Monster #236 |
#2
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Makes sense that it's a comic book store from Florida first to market. They're local and already have a relationship with CGC/CSG
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Check out https://www.thecollectorconnection.com Always looking for consignments 717.327.8915 We sell your less expensive pre-war cards individually instead of in bulk lots to make YOU the most money possible! and Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/thecollectorconnectionauctions |
#3
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$510. Is that good?
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#4
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and then CSG says that this is "1st Card Graded" - Lebron Refractor Rookie
I think it's only natural that PWCC would own it (at the moment) https://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-Topps-...5/224370194054
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Lonnie Nagel T206 : 215/520 : 41.0% |
#5
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#6
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Noticed the Herbert also ended in serial number 00001.....Trying to figure out their serial numbering system.
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#7
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"You don't try. That's very important: not to try, either for Cadillacs, creation or immortality. You wait, and if nothing happens, you wait some more."
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Read my blog; it will make all your dreams come true. https://adamstevenwarshaw.substack.com/ Or not... Last edited by Exhibitman; 03-10-2021 at 06:36 AM. |
#8
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No, I don't have a personal issue with SGC. I stated in a recent post that SGC is the place to go for pre-war. I believe their prices are comparable and sometimes even better than PSA for pre-war cards. Below are my observations and opinions about SGC. 1. Their slab is unacceptable. It is incredibly easy to open and if careful, I believe someone could open it without any scratches. This means that someone could easily insert a fake or lower graded card and resell it. See my attached picture of a card I recently broke out. 2. I would not even consider using them for post-war and absolutely not for modern. I am using PSA and Beckett for modern and will be trying CSG and HGA (didn't win the lottery last week). No one knows how HGA and CSG will hold up vs. PSA. So far I see that they are doing quite well but only time will tell if that will continue. Take care!
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Dan |
#9
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Thanks, I actually was not aware of this. I will definitely make sure to carefully examine the card when buying graded. And stick to reputable sellers.
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Deals Done: GrayGhost, Count76, mybuddyinc, banksfan14, boysblue, Sverteramo, rocuan, rootsearcher60, GoldenAge50s, pt7464, trdcrdkid, T206.org, bnorth, frankrizzo29, David Atkatz, Johnny630, cardsamillion, SPMIDD, esehombre, bbsports, babraham, RhodeyRhode, Nate Adams, OhioCardCollector, ejstel, Golfcollector, Luke, 53toppscollector, benge610, Lunker21, VintageCardCo, jmanners51, T206CollectorVince, wrm, hockeyhockey Collecting: T206 Monster #236 |
#10
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Well, after sending in my very 1st PSA Card grading submission (8 cards Express) the day before they doubled their prices (my first card submission ever), I decided to give CSG a try.
Just sent out 19 cards ($15 level). Mostly oddball and odd-sized multi-sport foreign issue stuff from the 70's-90's. Not a standard sized card in the bunch. Should be real annoying for them. ![]() We'll see how it goes. |
#11
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do you have to be a "member" of csg to submit cards to them? i see there's a free member option and other paid options - does the free membership allow for you to submit?
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#12
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anyone used CSG yet? curious about how it went
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#13
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Yeah, I believe you need to be at least the $25 member plan to submit. That's what I used. If you get the $149 plan, I believe you get a $150 credit...........which in hindsight, I should have used instead. |
#14
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thanks...guy from CSG got back to me today to confirm what you said. basically you pay the $149 for membership and you get what amounts to 10 cards graded for that fee.
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#15
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#16
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Here you go, incredibly easy. One little slip with a very small screwdriver and the case came apart. I showed it to two people in person and both could not tell where I opened it. If you really looked closely you can tell, but how many people examine every slab (I do)?
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Dan |
#17
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How the hell did that Mays grade a 2.5?
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Check out https://www.thecollectorconnection.com Always looking for consignments 717.327.8915 We sell your less expensive pre-war cards individually instead of in bulk lots to make YOU the most money possible! and Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/thecollectorconnectionauctions |
#18
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I thought I was the only one who thought that. That is a horrible overgrade for that card.
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#19
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I immediately thought the same thing. But then realized I was comparing it to the traditional standard, as dictated to us by PSA.
I have always believed that the current grading scale foist upon us has way too much room for variance at the low end, yet has miniscule (almost microscopic) variance at the top end. There really is not much visual difference between a 7-8-9-10. But the jump from a 1 to a 4 is practically life changing. Perhaps CSG's grading scale will feature more even increments in condition from number to number. If that's the case, I could easily see the 2.5 grade for the Mays. If their intent is to emulate the PSA/SGC scale, then of course it is over-graded. I personally would prefer a revamped and more evenly spaced grading scale that punishes poor focus or a crease more than a tiny pin hole or speck of paper loss. |
#20
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I agree with all this. This is what the bottom end of the number scale should be for. To lump every card that has a fair amount of handling wear under a "2" grade, seems pretty silly to me. For those of us who were around before grading company influences and the magical influx of pristine looking 50+ year old cards, this is what most of the cards looked like. That said, yeah, that card doesn't look great in the holder. If you have a card of that value, at least spring an extra 10 bucks for the sub-grades so you fill up more of the dead space on the flip. ![]() |
#21
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Try putting a junk card in one and glue the slab back together and then look at how easy it is to see it has been cracked open. There is a big difference between just setting a cracked slab back together and actually putting a card in one and trying to reseal it in my personal experience. I do agree it is very hard to tell from a pic at a angle. |
#22
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From any of the TPG's I have to use pliers to break off a corner of the slab, then run a flat head screwdriver through the space opened. Even then it's often pretty hair raising as I work down one side of the slab and pray I don't run into the card. Slabs are always mangled afterwards, no chance of passing as othewise. Never noticed any possible point in a closed slab to simply ease a small screw driver in and pry it open in c'est la vie fashion. Last edited by 68Hawk; 03-16-2021 at 08:52 PM. |
#23
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The Mays is ugly as sin in that holder.
Needs the flat black SGC background to create a prettier home. Nice condition cards look fine in BGS and PSA clear tombs, but rough condition cards really benefit from an SGC holder. Would be super interesting to see CSG's breakdown of grades for each area and which was lowest? Surface shouldn't get a 2, corners maaaaybe a 2-3, centering I guess a 2, edges best at a 3.5/4. Overall dragged up by the edges sub grade would be pretty lame. Last edited by 68Hawk; 03-16-2021 at 08:58 PM. |
#24
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I can assure you that they can be put back together without obvious signs. I received a rare Johnny Bench card I bought and when it arrived in the SGC holder it all but came apart without me even trying to open it. It was a hard to find card so I did not return and subbed it to SGC again (PSA no longer grades this card). I was shocked at how clean the slab had come apart. I could put it back together and you could not tell.
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#25
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#26
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I might still have the slab. I will have to dig around in my basement and see if I still have it. If I can locate it I will post a picture of it.
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