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#1
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#2
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I will buy from any person/entity if the terms and conditions are appropriate - i.e. if the price is right. I don’t discriminate against a good deal.
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#3
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Sometimes you just really need the card and they seem to always have it..
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Always looking for PSA Graded 1952 Topps: 1-80 PSA 7 81-310 PSA 8 311-407 PSA 6 |
#4
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No.
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#5
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If they had something extremely rare that I needed I would certainly bid on it but I'm sure it would end at some astronomical price way beyond my offer, legit bids or not. I have never won anything from them and only one time with Probstein in over twenty years on eBay. Like someone used to say, Stuff Trumps All.
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“interesting to some absolute garbage to others.” —- “Error cards and variations are for morons, IMHO.” |
#6
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I'll look at their 1500 card offering and choose maybe 3 cards to watch and while everybody is tripping over themselves overbidding for the fancy stuff, I'll quietly set limit bids and if I get it I get it.
For example: While everybody was salivating over Jackson's, Ruth's and Mantle's I was able to pick up a 1914 Cracker Jack Marquard for under market. |
#7
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Would not buy from them for any card they offer. I just can't bring myself to give them any of my money after reading what they were involved in and are likely still involved in. No card is worth my self respect. Sorry.
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I'm always looking for t206's with purple numbers stamped on the back like the one in my avatar. The Great T206 Back Stamp Project: Click Here My Online Trading Site: Click Here Member of OBC (Old Baseball Cards), the longest running on-line collecting club www.oldbaseball.com My Humble Blog: Click Here |
#8
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I used to scan through every T206 auction PWCC had each month but during the past year, I don't anymore and have maybe 5 specific eBay searches for T206's from PWCC, so if they do happen to list one of those five cards, I can take a closer look and if it fits what I'm looking for, I add it to my watch list. I basically have a price ahead of time that I'm comfortable bidding up to. If it goes beyond that price before auction end, I just let it go. If not, I manually bid my max in the final seconds to avoid any artificial up bidding. If I win, great. If I'm outbid, that's fine too. There's never been a problem with slow shipping or bad packaging. That's never been the issue. The issues were always the shill bidding and the actual owners of the cards bidding up their own items. That's why if you manually bid in the last seconds and only bid up to what your comfortable paying, you will never have an issue. Too many people get caught up into being the high bidder throughout the entire auction. That's a dangerous move. There's also the people that turn the bidding into a real competition and have to win, regardless of cost. Just to be the winner. When many times winning the card is actually a losing move. Just play it smart. Know your lane and know when to bail when something doesn't seem right or feel right. That is my entire PWCC strategy. Plus staying away from newer purposely manufactured rarities that sparkle.
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Ron - Uncle Nacki T206 Master Monster Front/Back Set Collector - www.youtube.com/unclenacki T206 Basic "The Monster" Set 514/524 T206 Advanced "Master Monster" Front/Back Set ?? ![]() COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS Old Mill Southern Leagues - Black Ink 48/48 Sweet Caporal 350-460 Factory 30 Full Color "No Prints" 28/28 NEAR COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS Polar Bear 245/250 Sovereign 460 50/52 Sweet Caporal 150 Factory 649 Overprint 31/34 Piedmont 350 "Elite 11" 9/11 |
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