Valuations percentages

[CW]

One rule of thumb I used to follow was to take the price at a given grade then multiply by .65 or .70 to get the next lowest grade. So if a 7 is $1000, a 6 would be about $650-$700. This is only a guide and not a perfect formula.

This does not always hold true for certain cards or issues that see a huge jump from 7 to 8, or 8 to 9, etc.

[btcarfagno]

I think your wife asks too many difficult questions. We may need to involve Frank for a final ruling on this one.

God help us all! 😭

Tom C

[frankbmd]

Originally Posted by btcarfagno

I think your wife asks too many difficult questions. We may need to involve Frank for a final ruling on this one.

God help us all! 😭

Tom C

You rang?

[steve B]

I don't really see how there can be a multiplier that can be applied across all sets. Even in postwar, there's a lot of variation. Callahans were sold as sets and the most common grade is an 8, so a seven should be a bit cheaper than normal. 1950 Drakes are pretty tough in anything over a 6.
Individual cards within a set can be harder to find in nice condition too, so I might pay more for those in a lower grade.

In prewar, the same stuff happens. There's a few T206 commons I've bought for more than the grade would seem to deserve because the front/series combination isn't common.

Some sets I'd be very happy to find any card at a price I could afford.


What I do is make a rough comparison to recent sales on Ebay. That sort of gives me the going rate for a particular card or typical common.

Steve B