Valuations percentages
 

Ok, after my wife asking me many times to come up with a list, and an acceptable price to pay, I am doing so. But, I need some input. In my pre war wants the desired grade would be a 6 or equivalent and a 7 in post war. However, I am satisfied with many lower grades as well and was wondering what everyone thought the approximate values should be. So if pre war baseline is 6, what % should a 5 be of the 6 price? How about a 4?

If 7 is the post war target, what percentage should a 6 or a 5 be?

I know the answers will not apply unilaterally due to the tremendous amount of variables, just looking for a reasonable assumption.

Mark Medlin

I asked a similar question not that long ago but received no replies.

I think, for the most part, it is a moving target and is therefore hard to put an exact number/% on.

I noticed tonight this "8" Mays card and another copy in a "6". The "8" sold for 10X what the 6 did so is a Mays 7 only 5X?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/401150210217...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351777911285...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Really, for 1950s-70s Topps, it's an exponential increase as you move up towards 10.

Say a card is a $1 1956 common, raw. Maybe something like this:

PSA 1: $1
PSA 2: $2
PSA 3: $3
PSA 4: $5
PSA 5: $8
PSA 6: $12
PSA 7: $20
PSA 8: $35
PSA 9: $75
PSA 10: $250

Is that what you're looking for? 1933 Goudey would probably be the same way, but all the values would be 5x since a common is $5 raw at least?

Hi Mark, For T206 commons, as a rule of thumb, if a 6 is 1.0 then a 5 is about 0.6 and a 4 is about 0.3. Again, this is just rough and ready based on sales the last couple of years. Scot

Thank you for your posts. I appreciate you all trying to help me with this.

One rule of thumb I used to follow was to take the price at a given grade then multiply by .65 or .70 to get the next lowest grade. So if a 7 is $1000, a 6 would be about $650-$700. This is only a guide and not a perfect formula.

This does not always hold true for certain cards or issues that see a huge jump from 7 to 8, or 8 to 9, etc.

I think your wife asks too many difficult questions. We may need to involve Frank for a final ruling on this one.

God help us all! 😭

Tom C

You rang?

I don't really see how there can be a multiplier that can be applied across all sets. Even in postwar, there's a lot of variation. Callahans were sold as sets and the most common grade is an 8, so a seven should be a bit cheaper than normal. 1950 Drakes are pretty tough in anything over a 6.
Individual cards within a set can be harder to find in nice condition too, so I might pay more for those in a lower grade.

In prewar, the same stuff happens. There's a few T206 commons I've bought for more than the grade would seem to deserve because the front/series combination isn't common.

Some sets I'd be very happy to find any card at a price I could afford.


What I do is make a rough comparison to recent sales on Ebay. That sort of gives me the going rate for a particular card or typical common.

Steve B

A late reply but one nonetheless, it seems a 7 will be double or more what a 6 is, and you can do that, and more, going up each grade. Each series is different though and the registry folks drive the high end prices (*and some investors/collectors). I have always thought the grade of 6 to be a great bang for the buck.

This looks reasonable at least in a general sense.

Just tell her to involve you in the decision so she doesn't get screwed. Honestly. Giving her a guide may be good, it may help her surprise you, but it's worse to hear she got taken and paid way too much for what she purchased for you.