Some helpful suggestions for new collectors

[the 'stache]

II. Baseball Card Supplies

The next thing you want to put together after your starting kit is a collection of basic supplies you will need to store your cards safely. I've pictured what I use, but your mileage may vary. The company making the items you buy may differ, but the basic items themselves are pretty much a constant.

In the lower-left corner of the above picture, I've got two items I use on the majority of my cards: Ultra Pro "penny sleeves", and "top loaders". The two brands I see most often used are Ultra Pro and BCW. "Penny sleeves" are sheets of polypropylene that fit perfectly around the card. There are several different sizes, so make sure that the size you purchase will fit the cards you are collecting. These are acid-free, archival quality that will not interact with the paper or inks used in cards. They are typically considered inert. The "top loaders" are rigid plastic sleeves that the card + "penny sleeve" can slide down into. Together, these two items provide a good amount of protection to cards. They protect the surface from scratching, and any damage that might otherwise occur when handling a card. Corner and edge damage of any kind will lower a card's value. And the rigid top loaders help protect the card from bending. I take it a step further, and use Ultra Pro team bags (upper right). The top loaders slide nicely into these, and then the top can be bent over, and sealed shut with the included adhesive seal. I have boxes of cards stored in this fashion. My more expensive modern cards will usually go into hard cases, like Ultra Pro "one touches" (not pictured). These are hard cases that have a recessed area for one card to fit into, as well as recessed corners to prevent contact damage. They are held together at the top by a magnet. These I then place into Ultra Pro one touch bags (center). These have the same function as the team bags, and when sealed, they protect the one touches from being scratched, and prevent them from opening. It's an added level of protection. The one touches with gold magnets have UV protection, so cards and autographs are less likely to fade if exposed to sunlight. I never leave my cards out, though, so that's not an issue. If you are ever going to display cards, they should be protected by UV glass, and kept out of sunlight as much as possible. Finally, I have two different "card savers", sizes I and II. These are flexible sleeves that many prefer for card storage. By squeezing on the side, the saver opens at the top, allowing the card insertion. When released, the saver closes snugly on top of the card. These are preferred for shipping cards to grading companies, as they prevent the cards from sliding around inside the saver. They literally will not move at all. But the material used does not cause any scratching to the card surface. I prefer Cardboard Gold savers, but it's merely a preference developed from using them first. The Card Saver "I" are the larger of the two, and I use these to store a good portion of my vintage cards. The Card Saver "I" product I use to store my ungraded tobacco cards (ie T206) and gum cards (ie 1934 Goudeys). They have the same archival qualities.

Additionally, you will need some sort of box(es) to store your cards in. There are the standard cardboard boxes that will hold 930 standard-sized cards, all the way up to 5,000 count boxes. While there are, again, various companies that produce these, I go with BCW. These are great for storing sets of modern cards, or large amounts of commons.

For more valuable cards, I prefer to use chipboard boxes (see above). They provide more protection, and are really nice looking, certainly much more appealing than a cheap cardboard box. When looking through older threads, you may see a company called MJ Roop mentioned. They were, to my knowledge, one of the first companies to make these kinds of boxes, in either chipboard or wood. They went out of business a few years back, but since then, a few companies have started producing the same high-quality boxes. The ones I use are from A Box Factory. The chipboard boxes cost about $50 each, and I believe they will offer discounts if more than a few are purchased. They also offer the same boxes with wood construction. These would, obviously, be even more durable, and offer greater protection, but they cost more. If you are going to take cards to shows, that would be the way to go. If you are just looking for boxes to store your cards at home in an attractive manner, the chipboard should be sufficient. Another company that I've recently discovered is Liongoods. I have not used them, so I cannot comment as to the quality of their product, but they offer a wide variety of storage options. I am quite happy with my A Box Factory purchases, so I can recommend them. Perhaps other forum members that have used Liongoods could comment on their quality. Just as an aside, I have no connection to any of the companies I am referencing, nor am I receiving any compensation. I wanted to make that clear. I am just providing helpful information.

One other topic, one that has been discussed at length in different threads on Net 54, is the storage of high value cards. There are two basic schools of thought here. Keep those cards at home, and insure them, or put them in a bank vault for safekeeping. There are numerous kinds of safes, from the $100 varieties made by a company like SentrySafe or FirstAlert, all the way up to custom Jeweler's Safes that can cost several thousand dollars. These safes can offer a variety of features, like protection against fire and/or water damage, and any decision made to keep cards at home must be considered carefully. Many members of Net 54 combine a safe, and collector's insurance, allowing them to view their cards whenever they want. The other option is to keep these cards at a bank, in a safe deposit box. While this might be less costly, there are downsides, potentially. Obviously, one such consideration is how readily available the bank is. A bank is only open certain hours of the day, and it might not be close to home. If you work a 9 to 5 job, that bank might close before you can get there. Some collectors store their high value cards in the bank, and take high quality scans of said cards. These can be viewed any time. The scans can also be used for insurance purposes. Then, there is the size factor. My bank has different sizes of safe deposit boxes, but I could never store a large collection there. Use the forum search function, and you'll find extensive discussions about this topic.

[the 'stache]

III. Educational sources

Once you've assembled your starter kit, and your supplies, it's time to start learning about the cards you want to buy. You can, of course, do all these at the same time, but it's important to have the items you need before the cards start coming in.

There are a plethora of books, magazines and online articles to assist you in learning about the hobby, no matter what your focus will be. You might decide to collect cards from one era only, or, you might be like me, and collect from all three. "Pre-war cards" consist of cards produced starting in the Nineteenth Century all the way up until the beginning of World War II. "Vintage cards" are those produced starting after the beginning of World War II up until the year 1980. And modern cards encompass those produced from 1981 on. 1981 was a landmark year for the hobby, as Topps saw their virtual monopoly on baseball cards vanish with the reintroduction of Fleer cards, and the addition of the Donruss company. Then, in 1989, Upper Deck joined the hobby. These are general guidelines that will help you decide what publications you want to collect.

I've included several different books and magazines I've purchased in learning about the hobby. I was perhaps a tad cautious before beginning. I literally spent five or six months reading, and asking questions, before I started buying cards. In the upper left corner is The Encyclopedia of Baseball Cards by Lew Lipset. This was a combined issuance of 3 volumes he'd previously released. You can still find this occasionally on EBay. I think I spent $30 on mine. It's a veritable treasure trove of information for pre-war baseball cards. It covers, in great detail, cards produced before 1900, as well as tobacco and candy cards produced before the start of World War II. Lew covers all the sets released, as cataloged by Jefferson Burdick in his American Card Catalog. Mr. Burdick was the first person to sit down, and create an organizational system identifying all the different pre-WWII sets. Cards with an "N" prefix covered cards issued prior to 1900. "T" cards included the sets of cards which could be found in packs of tobacco. "F" cards were found in packages of food and ice cream. "D" cards were found with baked goods, including bread. "E" cards were found with caramels, "R" cards with gum, etc. The book includes background information, as well as checklists. It's an essential item for collectors of old cards, and infinitely fascinating.

The little white booklet in the picture is The Sport Americana T206 The Monster, by Bill Heitman. Bill Heitman was the first to call the T206 set "the Monster". It's nearly four decades old by now, but it's an essential read for those who collect the set. It breaks down the set by print run, and by back. The checklist has been expanded since 1980, but it's still one of the best resources for understanding how the set is constructed. It can still be found on EBay, occasionally, for $15-20.

I've also included the book Judging the Authenticity of Early Baseball Cards by David Cycleback. David is a member of Net 54, and a widely respected expert/scholar in art, artifact and photograph authentication. While the book relates specifically to pre-WWII baseball card production, the lessons learned are invaluable to collectors of all eras. He goes into the use of black light in spotting alterations, as well as comparing the printing techniques (ink), card stock and paper of different samples under high-power magnification (microscopy utilizing 50X to 100X power). More than even these specifics he provides, his book gets the collector thinking in the proper frame of mind. He teaches the hobbyist to be a discriminating buyer, introducing the importance of discerning between authentic, reprint, and fakes. I've included a link to his booklet on sale at Amazon.

Lastly, I've included examples of two different magazines, the first being The Vintage and Classic Baseball Collector (which is no longer being produced), and Old Cardboard Magazine, which is still in production, with new issues coming out once a year. The VCBC back issues are commonly sold on EBay. Old Cardboard can be purchased on their site. I have linked directly to their order page. I have a collection of about 20 issues between the two titles, and they are both outstanding. They're fun reads, and they're highly insightful.

In addition to these printed books and periodicals, there are a lot of great websites devoted to the collection, including Sports Collectors Digest. They also have their own publication. Many other vintage and pre-war sites can be found in the vintage links page on our site. Lastly, there may be no better resource for collectors than Net 54. Learn to use the search function on our forum. If you've got a question, then chances are it's already been asked here before. I use our search function and Google together, and have never had an issue finding what I'm needing. It's good etiquette to look first, and then ask if you're unable to find what you're looking for.

[the 'stache]

III. Tips For Getting Started

Once you have everything you need-the starter kit, the supplies to store your cards safely, and the information to familiarize yourself with the collecting niche you've decided upon, it's time to start buying cards.

I. The very first piece of advice I'd give to a new collector is to start small. Though that T206 Cobb, or 1953 Bowman Color Mickey Mantle might wow your socks off, those cards will cost quite a bit to acquire. And, if you're going to buy one of those cards, you really want to know what you're doing first. I referenced creating a "starter's kit" earlier, and provided a small list of items that every collector should have. I would also add baseball cards to that list. I've created a small collection of commons for all the years I am collecting, and whenever I buy a card from a particular set, I compare any card I get in to the common card. These commons won't be expensive. You don't even need a high quality common. In fact, it's probably better if the commons have a little bit of wear. I even purchase a few pretty beat up cards from each decade, ones exhibiting issues like water damage, creases and wrinkles, paper loss, edge and corner damage.

II. Get to know the cards you are buying. Say you've decided you want to collect 1953 Bowman Color cards. Great choice! Before you go buying a Stan Musial, a Mickey Mantle or a Pee Wee Reese, pick up one of those commons I referred to. You want to become familiar with the card stock used to produce your favorite set. Look at the common card under magnification. Learn to recognize how the edges of these cards look under your loupe. This section on the Net 54 website serves as an introduction to spotting alterations, forgeries and reprints (scroll down the page to see this). One of the biggest problems you will be faced with as a collector is trimming. Trimming is a form of alteration where a card with "soft" edges is sliced off, slightly, to create the appearance of a sharper edge (or corner), which, of course, would make the card more valuable. Take one of your commons, an x-acto knife, and a ruler, and cut along the edge. Look at the cut edge, and compare it to one that has not been cut. Examine the edges for signs of chipping, a natural byproduct of normal card production. While there are other things to be looking out for (ie bleaching, re-papering of cardboard loss, soaking, etc), trimming is one way an unscrupulous seller can try to pull a fast one on a buyer. A trimmed card immediately lowers the card value, though it might improve upon its visual appeal. If sent to a company like PSA, Beckett, or SGC, a card grader would recognize this alteration, and label the card as altered. Never assume that a card you've purchased is unaltered. It's your money, and a proactive collector will experience less heartache. By familiarizing yourself with the look, and the feel of the cards you are going to collect, you immediately reduce the likelihood that you're going to get taken for a ride. You can even do as I do, and "smell" cards when you get them (if they're not entombed in a graded card slab, of course). That's not a joke. A 40 or 50 year old card will have a different smell than a card that was produced a month or two ago. While printing technology has advanced quite a bit from 1953, that can also work for you. A reprinted card might look like the real thing at first glance, but if you are careful, and using all of your senses, you should be able to tell the difference. The smell, the feel, the appearance--something will just "feel" different. Just remember, once you've done your due diligence, it's okay to ask questions. You can examine something and still not be sure. It's always smart to ask for help, especially when you're going to spend a considerable amount of money on a single card for the first time. If you're not sure, start a topic on the correct forum (here for vintage cards, and the main forum for pre-war). If it's an auction you're unsure of, provide a link, and as much information as you can. If it's a card you're looking to buy in person, take a picture (or, even better, a scan) of the back and front of the card, preferably without any top loader, etc (if this is feasible). Reprints and forgeries will each have tell tale signs, and experienced collectors will know what to look for. By asking questions, you will learn from the knowledge and experience of veteran collectors. These gems you learn will help protect you. Knowledge is power, and the scam artists out there are counting on an uneducated buyer to make their money.

III. Buy from only trustworthy sources. So, you're looking to buy that killer 1957 Topps Roberto Clemente. You've been looking on EBay, and boom, there it is. You click on the link, and the card you see is beautiful. Do you click on the buy it now, and shoot off a few hundred bucks of Paypal to the seller?

No. God, I hope not. At least, not until you've done some real scrutinizing.

The first thing you should do is look at who you're buying from. If you're seeing a seller with the user name Somenewguy101 (5), you need to be on your guard. Is it possible they are a legitimate seller, and the card you are looking to buy is authentic? Of course. Even the most trustworthy sellers on EBay started out at one time, so a low feedback score is not indicative of a person's trustworthiness. Likewise, somebody with a 10,000 feedback score (and a 100% approval rating) is not guaranteed to be selling the real deal. Let me allude back to my investment experience. You've all heard of Bernie Madoff, correct? He was an investment advisor that swindled millions from his clients. Before his crooked ways were exposed, he had a good reputation, and wealthy investors trusted him with their money. Never assume. Don't let a 100% approval rating lull you into a false confidence. You need to be like a CSI, weighing all the evidence. You need to be looking at the EBay post (or wherever you are looking to buy) itself. Is this a picture that somebody pulled off the net, and slapped into their auction? Or, does the picture have their user name on EBay included with it? There's a site that does searches by image called Tineye. You provide the image URL (web address), and it scours the web for that same picture. If you're buying a card, and the identical picture is coming up thousands of times, then you have to consider if you're not looking at a reprint. Is the seller providing multiple, clear pictures of the card (and card slab, if it's graded), or is there one blurry picture of the card in one of those lucite card blocks of doom? Read the information included in the auction. Are they dealers? Or, did they "find this card in their grandfather's attic"? Use common sense. Look, too, at the seller's EBay history. Have they sold similar vintage baseball cards before? If not, that in and of itself does not mean they are up to no good. But if they sell like-valued cards, then it increases the likelihood that the card is authentic. All of this is important to read, and consider. If you have questions, or concerns, contact the seller! A legit seller will provide information, and additional pictures. A scam artist won't respond, or they'll come up with an excuse as to why they can't provide other pictures. And look over the pictures that are provided. If it's a PSA 8 you're buying, does the card's condition exhibit what you'd expect for the grade? As an example, here's a visual representation of how PSA grades their cards. This shows several different 1952 Topps Mickey Mantles, one at each different grade level from Gem Mint 10 all the way down to Poor 1. If it's a graded card, are there frosted borders to the slab? Is the slab damaged? Does the flip look...off? Is the typography used inconsistent with the font PSA has long-used? Is the spacing off between letters and numbers?

If after all of this, you're still not sure, ask for help on the forum.

The B/S/T (buy/sell/trade) on Net 54 is an excellent place to buy and sell cards. This is a community of hobbyists, and we do all we can to police the B/S/T, and the hobby itself. But you should always keep your guard up. Listen to the little voice in your head. If something doesn't feel right, ask for help, or don't buy. Unless you're hot for a one of a kind card (or an ultra rare issue), chances are there will be another example of the card you're looking for available very soon. A good collector never acts irrationally. Patience is a virtue.

This is a great hobby. But, as with any other investment, a certain amount of education is necessary to trade, buy and sell safely. Don't ever let yourself be pressured into doing something you're not comfortable with. Use your resources. In doing so, you'll avoid getting taken advantage of.

IV. Lastly, have fun! Remember why you love baseball, and collecting cards in the first place. The hobby can be a little intimidating in the early stages. There are some really valuable cards that change hands. Remember, this is something to do for your enjoyment. It's not a competition. Don't ever hesitate to ask for help when you have questions. Read the forum, and contribute. "Pay it forward" if you can. Once you've been collecting for a while, share the knowledge you've acquired, and help those who are just starting out. That's the kind of spirit this hobby needs more of.

If you have any questions, please feel free to message me. I check the forum at least every few days, and I'm happy to help.

Bill

[the 'stache]

One additional thought regarding graded cards. It is very important to maintain a healthy level of skepticism whenever buying cards, even those that have been graded, and "slabbed" by reputable companies like Professional Sports Authenticator (PSA), Beckett, and Sportscard Guarantee (SGC). Never assume that a card is authentic because somebody else tells you it is. There are people out there that try to make money off of unsuspecting collectors, using these graded card cases to further their scams.

This is what PSA's slab looks like without a card, or a "flip" (the printed portion at the very top of the slab which includes the name of the player, the year and company that has produced the card, the card number, and the grade.)



Placed against a black background, you can see what the plastic slab looks like. Upon inspection, you want to be on the lookout for abnormally "white" portions of the slab, which can be indicative of the slab "being popped". This is referred to as frosting. While a little bit of light frosting is common in the production of these slabs, more pronounced frosting is often the first sign that a slab has been tampered with. And when I mean tampered with, I mean opened to remove the original card, and replace it with a lesser quality card, or a fake. Though the slabs vary from one company to another, common practice is to "sonically weld" the top and bottom pieces together, forming a strong seam. These seams can be exploited, however. There are videos on Youtube you can look up to show how this is done. Basically, an x-acto blade, and a screwdriver head, weaken the seam, and pry it open. Besides the bright white frosting that is evident, you also want to test the strength of the slab itself. Holding the top portion of the slab (near the flip), and the lower portion, try to gently bend the slab. If there is any give, you want to immediately examine the card itself. Even if there is not any give, you still want to examine the flip along the seam, looking for signs that it's been cracked, and re-glued. Look for micro-fractures.

Keep in mind, too, that occasionally, the TPG (third-party graders) change their flips. They might alter how the information is layed out, or add additional information to the flip. If you are unsure about a flip, search the internet to find examples of old flips. Or, ask somebody on the forum to take a look at it.

Scammers try to steal from buyers with these graded cards in a few ways. One approach is to crack open a legitimately-graded card, so they can remove the card, and replace it with a card of lower quality. Say, for instance, the scammer has a 1957 Topps Mickey Mantle that PSA has graded an 8. They would pop this, and replace it with a 6, and sell it as the 8. The card would command the higher price an 8 would fetch on the open market. This is where the examination of the slab, the flip, and the card itself are important. Another approach scammers use is to replace the legitimate cards with reproductions, either reprints, or forgeries. Reprints will often have the word "reprint" included on the back of the card somewhere (but not always), and the cards will often exhibit some minor difference from the original. Be on the look out for alterations to the card backs where the word "reprint" would normally be found. In this example, a legitimate slab + flip are used to sell a card that is not authentic. Lastly, the other option crooks have is to use slabs and flips that have been created for the purpose of stealing from the consumer. These do not come from the legitimate TPGs. They are produced in other countries. The flips, too, will be faked. This is where a loupe is helpful. Examine the typography utilized on the flip, and compare it to an authentic example.

The mantra of "buy the card, not the holder" should ring in your head whenever you buy a graded card. If you are buying a card in person, examine the card itself, the slab and the flip. If you are buying a card online that has been graded, look over the pictures provided...carefully. Does the card entombed in plastic match the grade on the flip? Does the slab exhibit any examples of tampering? Does the flip, and any hologram used, look right? And as always, does the seller pass the sniff test?

I don't want new hobbyists to be frightened by the information I am sharing. This is a great hobby, and the vast majority of people who collect are in it for the right reason. You just need to always be on the defensive. You need to be proactive. Even if you are buying a valuable card from a trusted seller, still go through these steps. Because while the TPGs go to lengths to insure the safety of the public, card graders are human, and can make mistakes. Never assume that your seller's card is authentic. Sellers can be duped, too. They can buy cards they think are legitimate, and a careful scam artist might be able to fool even the most seasoned seller if they are doing considerable volume.

Establish good habits, and they will serve you well. When you buy cards online, know what kinds of protection your payment method(s) offer. Don't assume, ask! And be aware of what price the card you are looking to buy has been commanding. You can use VCP (vintagecardprices.com), or even look at EBay history for an idea. If somebody is selling a card that usually goes for $1,000 for $400 buy it now, something is amiss. The old mantra of "if it's too good to be true, it probably is" applies to our hobby, too.

[KingFisk]

Originally Posted by the 'stache

(reserved)

Bill, this is awesome. I imagine this is going to be a great resource for years to come. Thanks for doing this.