MY newest Gehrig pick up and a question for the photo guys.

[thecatspajamas]

My 2 cents:
I would have the tape residue/soiling cleaned/removed from the front and leave it at that. It looks like there is some surface loss around the periphery, but little that intrudes into the image area, so I personally would be more inclined to mat out most of the loss areas and frame it rather than doing some sort of infill/repaint (not sure what exact process they use for photos) to recreate those areas. To me, that's the difference between restoration (cleaning and working with what is there) and recreation (for parts that are no longer there). Others may feel differently.

And FWIW, I have not personally had any photos cleaned, restored or recreated, so this is all academic where I am concerned. I'm sure others can speak more from personal experience.

Beautiful photo, by the way. If you ever wondered what it would look like in color, this was Brace's later interpretation that he used for his Bra-Mac photo series:

[JoeyF1981]

My pleasure mark! Its always good talking to you and I know the photo found a good home! Just dont forget about me when you come across any nice ruth photos!

[drcy]

If you can get the tape/tape reside removed, especially from the image, that would be good. As with most I'm sure, I don't like tape, especially on the images. I wouldn't worry about the other damage. Old photos almost always have wear, and wear/damage in the white border areas and back shouldn't be something to lose sleep over. Pre-War photos almost never come in Mint condition.

[MVSNYC]

As i opened this thread, a huge smile came across my face seeing the image of the photo load...then when i started reading your post/question, i cringed. i'd leave it exactly as-is. i recently saw a rare baseball program that had been restored (not a great job) and it was just heart-breaking. i'd leave it alone. my 2 cents.

Edited to add: i'd simply have it matted and framed, using museum quality materials to give it the presentation and importance it deserves.

I'd frame it like how i did these T206 cards; 8-ply white matte, and burl wood frame (everything acid-free and UV glass):

[drcy]

If you chose to leave it, that's fine by me. I've never had a photo restored and, as I said, it's normal for old photos to have wear.

[batsballsbases]

Originally Posted by thecatspajamas

My 2 cents:
I would have the tape residue/soiling cleaned/removed from the front and leave it at that. It looks like there is some surface loss around the periphery, but little that intrudes into the image area, so I personally would be more inclined to mat out most of the loss areas and frame it rather than doing some sort of infill/repaint (not sure what exact process they use for photos) to recreate those areas. To me, that's the difference between restoration (cleaning and working with what is there) and recreation (for parts that are no longer there). Others may feel differently.

And FWIW, I have not personally had any photos cleaned, restored or recreated, so this is all academic where I am concerned. I'm sure others can speak more from personal experience.

Beautiful photo, by the way. If you ever wondered what it would look like in color, this was Brace's later interpretation that he used for his Bra-Mac photo series:

Lance great picture! Its also intresting to see that you can see his elbow resting on his hand,and a bat, and the yankee logo on the uniform! Makes you wonder why Burke cropped all that out of his photo!

[MVSNYC]

I really love this image of Lou. When they become available, what price range are they in? i just saw a really nice example at the Heritage preview, it was signed by Lou, so the price was huge.

[batsballsbases]

Mike Good question I know the signed ones go for big $$$$ but the unsigned ones dont come up for sale that often. I know there are many factors that determine price for these and condition is one of them. I dont know what Mark paid for his , and also was a trade included but would love to hear from some others on what this photo is worth! Ben and a few others might know better! Also I know the (forgers) love to get this photo and do their (Magic) with it so maybe thats why you dont see many unsigned ones!!!!

[Forever Young]

Originally Posted by batsballsbases

Mike Good question I know the signed ones go for big $$$$ but the unsigned ones dont come up for sale that often. I know there are many factors that determine price for these and condition is one of them. I dont know what Mark paid for his , and also was a trade included but would love to hear from some others on what this photo is worth! Ben and a few others might know better! Also I know the (forgers) love to get this photo and do their (Magic) with it so maybe thats why you dont see many unsigned ones!!!!

Unsigned come up for sale less often that signed ones. I hate to put values on photos as it can change from moment to moment and everyone has a different opinion depending on how important the image is to them/if they collect or not/what the setting is.. ect ect.
I will tell you that I turned down 5k for my Ruth and Gehig pair below. It took me 7 years to find them. That said, mine ar ein very high end condition. However. a Ruth just sold in HYEE auction for 1300. I thought it would go for double. Also NOTE, I pay more for photos than the average Ben.
That Ruth in HYEE would have been a good Ruth for someone looking for some "cream" IMO.

The burkes are not as rare in theory as Conlons, Paul Thompsons, Bains, even single shot news service photos as Burke produced to sell to players as well as fans as we all know. However, I can tell you.. unsigned examples of these two shots are very rare as it relates to the demand. They are two of the most well known portraits of these two giants. I would say an 8x10 in the condition as my example could fetch 1500-2000 unsigned very easily at auction. If two serious photo guys are on it, probably more. The condition of Mark's example clearly hurt it. What did it sell for again?

Again.. I hate to put prices on photos as there is no way to know. Someone could come on here and pull 600 out of the air and I would be like.. ok... sold in the wrong setting.. maybe. I am going off what I would have paid when I wanted one and what I have been offered(facts).

Regarding the photo in question.. How much are you in it? You spend more money on top of that.. then how much are you in it for a re-conditioned one?
My point is, it is not that bad... maybe get tape removed or just frame and matte out. If you have as much in it or close to one unconditioned it makes no sense.. especially if you are fine with it as is IMO.
It just depends on what it is worth to you as you really are not going to be hurt either way as far as value goes.

Photos are like art in that reconditioning is acceptable if done well. If one is altered and looks the same as one unaltered.. yeah. .it is worth less but still can bring high value. It doesn't automatically make it a psa "altered" worth less than a psa 1 card
There I go... a ramblin man again.

[batsballsbases]

Ben,
Thats what I would have figured 1500-2000 . But yes as we know if you get 2 people who want it bad enough maybe 2500.

[perezfan]

They can do some amazing things with regard to restoration these days.

The tape residue would bug me personally. And I bet it does, you, to a certain extent as well (or you wouldn't have posted/posed the question). I would check with a few companies up-front, and ask if they can remove/eliminate the tape residue without compromising the photo.

If they exude confidence, you feel comfortable, and their pricing is in-line, then I say do it! But, as others have eloquently stated, I would limit it only to the tape residue removal.

Just my 2 cents... classic and beautiful image!

[bn2cardz]

Originally Posted by batsballsbases

Lance great picture! Its also intresting to see that you can see his elbow resting on his knee, and the yankee logo on the uniform! Makes you wonder why Burke cropped all that out of his photo!

Originally Posted by batsballsbases

Funny to that I always thought that there was some (loss) on my photo around his arm, you can see it ,but looking at yours the loss is the same so it was in the photo to beguin with!

Originally Posted by Forever Young

I will tell you that I turned down 5k for my Ruth and Gehig pair below. It took me 7 years to find them. That said, mine are in very high end condition.

Sorry if this is a "duh" question to the experts, but as a beginner (to vintage photos) I am trying to understand things.

Ben yours show the extra image that Al referenced. Could this be another reason yours are getting higher offers? Also Al mentions that his photo and Mark's both show wear on the arm. So are these later copies or a wire photo of the original image, and Ben's a "Type 1"?

[batsballsbases]

Originally Posted by bn2cardz

Sorry if this is a "duh" question to the experts, but as a beginner (to vintage photos) I am trying to understand things.

Ben yours show the extra image that Al referenced. Could this be another reason yours are getting higher offers? Also Al mentions that his photo and Mark's both show wear on the arm. So are these later copies or a wire photo of the original image, and Ben's a "Type 1"?

Andy,
Some I can answer no these arenot copies of wire photos. Thats why I copied the back. You can see the back stamp from george burke and the refference # typed on top. so no these came from burke studios. Ben I also would like to see what the back of your photo looks like. Does it have different markings?

[thecatspajamas]

Originally Posted by bn2cardz

Sorry if this is a "duh" question to the experts, but as a beginner (to vintage photos) I am trying to understand things.

Ben yours show the extra image that Al referenced. Could this be another reason yours are getting higher offers? Also Al mentions that his photo and Mark's both show wear on the arm. So are these later copies or a wire photo of the original image, and Ben's a "Type 1"?

Andy, the "extra image" is a result of differences in cropping of the image when the original print was produced. Think of it as projecting an image on a screen. As the screen changes shape, different portions of the image are forced "out of frame". Similarly, as you zoom in or out to focus on a particular portion of the original image captured on film, other portions of the image may fall "out of frame." Also, the aspect ratio of an 8x10 print vs a 4x6 are different, making it impossible for each to show the same portion of the same image without having fatter margins on the top/bottom or sides. As you can see, the original negative shows "more image" than any of the prints referenced above, which is typical since the original negative was 5"x7" (another aspect ratio altogether).

As far as a strict "Type" classification, that's something that is better left alone when looking at Burke photos, at least for the present. Reason being that as it stands, part of a "Type 1" designation is that 2-year window from when the photo was shot to when the print was produced. Since Burke continually produced prints from his negatives over the years, it's tough to definitively pin down a print date for most photos. There are some exceptions that I won't go into specifics here (for one reason, I'm still researching some aspects of the dating), but suffice it to say that I think for most of Burke's photos, a designation of "Original" is probably more appropriate and sufficient at this point.