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#1
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As I breakdown my collection and the goals I have for it, I'm looking at starting the chase of The Monster - 520 T206 set. I'm looking for some input on my approach.
Acquisition Strategy Target 50+/- cards per year, for 10 years. Create a spreadsheet with estimated expenses per card, and of the 50 cards per year, acquire about 37-38 commons, and 13-12 uncommons/HoFers/important cards. Thoughts? Grade Not too concerned about corners. I'm more focused on the surface. 1-2 will work for the commons. SGC 1-3 for the important cards/HoFers, as long as the 1 is under-graded. Sound about right for a budget? Backs I don't think the backs are too important to me. I'm just going to target the best price I can find for each card. For those of you who have attempted/completed this set, would you recommend targeting a certain back, or does completing this set with a budget negate the importance of the backs? Storage Breaking it down, I want to put the commons in a binder, and the uncommons/important/HoFers in slabs. Thoughts? Marketplace Where is the best, most trustworthy place to buy raw T206? Are there any other factors I'm overlooking? Thank you in advance for any and all advice.
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Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors - Grover Hartley PC - Jim Thome PC - Cleveland Sports Hall of Fame |
#2
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I'll put in my 2 cents worth:
Acquisition Strategy Target 50+/- cards per year, for 10 years. Create a spreadsheet with estimated expenses per card, and of the 50 cards per year, acquire about 37-38 commons, and 13-12 uncommons/HoFers/important cards. Thoughts? Sticking with anything for 10 years is a goal in itself. Grade Not too concerned about corners. I'm more focused on the surface. 1-2 will work for the commons. SGC 1-3 for the important cards/HoFers, as long as the 1 is under-graded. Sound about right for a budget? Personally, I hate paper loss ; try not to depend on under-graded cards. BacksI don't think the backs are too important to me. I'm just going to target the best price I can find for each card. For those of you who have attempted/completed this set, would you recommend targeting a certain back, or does completing this set with a budget negate the importance of the backs? As many board members will attest, there is a lot to like about T206 backs and a lot of hidden value, so don't just bypass this. Storage Breaking it down, I want to put the commons in a binder, and the uncommons/important/HoFers in slabs. Thoughts? Like anything else you want to preserve, keep away from direct sunlight. MarketplaceWhere is the best, most trustworthy place to buy raw T206? Our own BST for sure! Good Luck!
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. "A life is not important except in the impact it has on others lives" - Jackie Robinson “If you have a chance to make life better for others and fail to do so, you are wasting your time on this earth.”- Roberto Clemente |
#3
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Best place to buy is here for sure...
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#4
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![]() Quote:
One question I have about buying here... Is it best to have one major "The Monster Chase" thread to garner more popularity/attention, or multiple threads depending on which individual cards I'm focusing on?
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Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors - Grover Hartley PC - Jim Thome PC - Cleveland Sports Hall of Fame |
#5
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Not aware of your budget, so it's hard to say how many cards is a reasonable number per year.
Regarding the backs, it's all about what is important to you. Would you rather finish the set first or take your time and acquire rarer backs? Neither is wrong, but it will obviously affect your budget. I got to 520 first without regard to back and have been upgrading/diversifying backs over the past year. I probably had about 50 of the rarer backs (PB, Sovereign, Overprint, Old Mill) when I completed the set and am now up to 125 or so. My cards are in a binder because that is my preference. But I also have a lower-grade set (P-VG). If you are building a higher-grade set, I would use toploaders. For the expensive cards, I recommend buying them graded or buying them raw from a dependable seller and slabbing them. The only real piece of advice I have is to focus on bargains and not types of cards. I focused on only commons until I got about 3/4 of the way through and passed up some good deals along the way on HOFs/SLs. If I did it again, I'd focus more on getting the best deals instead of just doing all commons first. You'll save yourself some headaches along the way. Best of luck! Quote:
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T205 (208/208) T206 (520/520) T207 (200/200) E90-1 (120/121) E91A/B/C (99/99) 1895 Mayo (16/48) N28/N29 Allen & Ginter (100/100) N162 Goodwin Champions (30/50) N184 Kimball Champions (37/50) Complete: E47, E49, E50, E75, E76, E229, N88, N91, R136, T29, T30, T38, T51, T53, T68, T73, T77, T118, T218, T220, T225 www.prewarcollector.com |
#6
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you have a well planned approach! my suggestion have fun a buy what you can swing at the time!
a lot of purchases are "spur" of the moment.... email me anytime you need help peace johnny |
#7
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Email sent. Thank you, sir!
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors - Grover Hartley PC - Jim Thome PC - Cleveland Sports Hall of Fame |
#8
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My strategy is similar to yours, although I haven't written it down. Maybe I will do that this afternoon.
Since this thread is about you strategy I won't go into mine too much. Good luck with acquiring 50 a year, it should be obtainable. I like sgc 60 (5) with good centering, more $$ but I'm particular. I also like the different backs, just don't see me buying many at the grade I want. As for storage. I want all slabbed cards. I plan to scan mine, front and back, keeping them in a binder. Good luck, you're an inspiration. |
#9
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As far as keeping yours in binders, are you referring to the scans or the slabs?
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors - Grover Hartley PC - Jim Thome PC - Cleveland Sports Hall of Fame |
#10
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For my slabs I use Sterilite 6 qt boxes with tops. They are available around here at Big Lots for $1. |
#11
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I like the idea of the Sterilite boxes. I have seen that done before by a guy on YouTube and need to get some myself.
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors - Grover Hartley PC - Jim Thome PC - Cleveland Sports Hall of Fame |
#12
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A lot of good advice already. I would add one thing. You should be aware that your wants may change as you get used to the set. I started with a pretty similar strategy as you and hit a wall about 175 cards in. I had won an auction for a nice VG Jeff Sweeney with Piedmont back at a really good price, but when it came in the mail I wasn't at all excited about it and didn't open it for like 3 weeks. I realized that I wasn't really into my original goals anymore, so I sold a bunch of the lower grade cards and re-focused.
Nowadays I am a back collector and I don't really plan to ever finish the set. As long as I enjoy each and every card I pick up, I am happy. Not saying this or something similar will happen to you, but it might. You might start out collecting cards in poor-good but then win a few PSA 4s at good prices and realize you like them much better than your PSA 1s. Things like that can happen and your wants can change. |
#13
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I would advise to stick with graded cards. You have an admirable goal and I did something similar, but at some point or when you complete the set, you may find yourself wanting to sell. At that point, graded cards will, for the most part, sell for more than raw and you don't want to pay to have all of your raw cards graded. Let someone else pay that expense and buy them already slabbed. Best of luck!
The backs are fun as well. You can try to pick up at least one of each back (or at least the non-Uzit, Drums, etc... to start). Keep that as part of your checklist. I liked to look for SGC cards that were graded lower because of things like back stamps, which technically drop the condition grade, but which I think really add to your collection. It's neat to see a stamp that tells a small story of what the original owner was doing over 100 years ago... Best, Steve
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___________________ T206 Master Set:103/524 T206 HOFers: 22/76 T206 SLers: 11/48 T206 Back Run: 28/39 Desiderata You are a child of the universe, no less than the trees and the stars; you have a right to be here. And whether or not it is clear to you, no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should. With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Strive to be happy. |
#14
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__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors - Grover Hartley PC - Jim Thome PC - Cleveland Sports Hall of Fame |
#15
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I am not a set guy, but if you are starting fresh you might budget extra for years 1-2 and target HOFers. Prices on HOFers tend to rise more quickly than commons so it makes sense to get those first rather than last as the commons won't appreciate a ton. Also, not sure of your budget, but I like the idea suggested above for aiming to get one of each back type (factory #s included!) as you put together your set. Things like BL 460 and Brown Old Mill might never happen, but I still really enjoy having several different backs and I have never had anything tougher than a Carolina Brights.
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Collection: https://www.flickr.com/photos/132359235@N05/sets/ For Sale: https://www.flickr.com/photos/132359...7719430982559/ Ebay listings: https://www.ebay.com/sch/harrydoyle/...p2047675.l2562 |
#16
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I started chasing the set in earnest in 2012, buying lower grade commons and lots. (Buy in lots when you can). I had an unspoken goal to get a short set done in two years, and I did.
My focus shifted to the HOF cards and found I liked the assurance I had with graded cards. There are a lot of trimmed cards out there, which is fine because many of these cards look really nice. Unfortunately, a number of these were not presented as trimmed and I paid a price dealing with that. This is another reason to use the BST. You may run into a few issues but I can tell you the guys on this list are invested in the hobby and will treat you well. And then I sprung for a red Cobb, SGC 60, beautiful registration, perfect centering. There went my budget. I put money into the HOF and scarcer cards and gave up upgrading my lower grade commons once I realized my budget was getting away from me. I got burned out, can you believe it! So, take your time, stick to your budget and buy what you like. Cards will be there when you are ready for them! Have fun! Oh yeah, get yerself into Frank's Monster thread if you have not already... Keith
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T206 156/518 second time around R312 49/50 1959 Topps 568/572 1958, 1961, 1963, 1964, 1957, 1956… ...whatever I want Last edited by drmondobueno; 11-29-2016 at 12:37 PM. |
#17
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![]() Quote:
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors - Grover Hartley PC - Jim Thome PC - Cleveland Sports Hall of Fame |
#18
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Thank you very much for the advice. Are you suggesting to go with graded for the entire set? Definitely going to get myself into Frank's Monster thread. I've been reading through that thread. Pretty impressive what some people have.
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors - Grover Hartley PC - Jim Thome PC - Cleveland Sports Hall of Fame |
#19
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If you are a budget conscious set minded collector, buy what you can at the "right" price when it becomes available. Passing up a great deal on a Snodgrass because he didn't make the HOF seems unwise. It is also likely that, in ten years or less, whatever your master plan is now, it will change. ![]()
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RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER FATHER. GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH WORTHLESS NON-FUNGIBLES 274/1000 Monster Number |
#20
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I'm doing T205 set which is much easier but I knew it would be a long term 10 year type project so I got a lot of Hofs and SP cards first. And commons when the price was right. I know over time the harder cards would go up faster that commons and wanted to tackle that ASAP. If I changed my mind I could finish a HOF or similar subset. I'm just over half away, on schedule and have most of the harder cards bought.
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#21
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There is no right or wrong way. I suggest that you go for the 520-524. Simply buy a card, put it in the binder, and check it off the list! That's what I did. 8 years later, I have 504 in the binder and counting..... Good luck!
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#22
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As usual, Frank said it best. No matter what your "ten year goal" is, life has a way of saying...."not so fast".
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___________________ T206 Master Set:103/524 T206 HOFers: 22/76 T206 SLers: 11/48 T206 Back Run: 28/39 Desiderata You are a child of the universe, no less than the trees and the stars; you have a right to be here. And whether or not it is clear to you, no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should. With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Strive to be happy. |
#23
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You and others are right - this is so true.
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors - Grover Hartley PC - Jim Thome PC - Cleveland Sports Hall of Fame |
#24
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To be honest, the Monster cards I presently own are nearly all ungraded, warts and all, and are a joy to handle. I am also a fan of cards with backstamps and handwriting. Just something about a card that was well loved over the last hundred or so years. Something timeless about that. I did not get caught up in a firm minimum condition, as I found, for example, I cared little for the southern league cards or cards with print defects. I bought cards I liked and could afford. Registration is everything for me. Thankfully I am not OCD so centering I could overlook on occasion. Take your time, enjoy the ride.
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T206 156/518 second time around R312 49/50 1959 Topps 568/572 1958, 1961, 1963, 1964, 1957, 1956… ...whatever I want Last edited by drmondobueno; 11-29-2016 at 06:44 PM. |
#25
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Lots of good advice here. As a couple guys already mentioned, if you get a chance to get a big card, go for it. It may kill your budget for a while, but the commons will always be available. The big cards will go up quicker, so get them if you can, and it's fun to have a couple big cards as a "centerpiece" for your collection, even if your collection is still small.
And if you find yourself losing focus, step aside for a few months. You can come back to the cards when you're ready again. It happens to all of us at one time or another. Good luck, and feel free to PM if you have questions. |
#26
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I encourage you to stay flexible with your approach. A rigid adherence to anything over 10 years is a challenge -- particularly when it's supposed to be a fun hobby. I've been collecting T206s for nearly 20 years now, and "completed" one set about 10 years in and am on the verge of doing it again -- I'm back up to 514, having sold off most of the first set back in 2007, but there is some overlap. My focus is still evolving, even this far in. And I even go through some months or years with little to no interest in T206s. When you give up, don't admit it; and when you're going strong don't think the fever will be consistent or last forever.
Remember, the Monster wants you to quit. Don't listen to it.
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Galleries and Articles about T206 Player Autographs www.SignedT206.com www.instagram.com/signedT206/ @SignedT206 Last edited by T206Collector; 11-30-2016 at 12:42 AM. |
#27
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#28
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Taking in everyone's advice, and morphing it to fit my restrictions as a younger, less-financially established collector, I have put together a pretty solid game-plan I think. When you crunch the numbers on approximately how expensive this set is, it truly becomes a life-long chase. I'm excited for that part. I'm not sure my fiancee of just over a week still wants to marry me (kidding, but she somewhat jokingly didn't like the end number I presented her with - and that was on the low end), but that's ok; she'll get over it.
I'm working on the T206 Cleveland team set first. I am at the very least going to knock out the commons/Flick and maybe Joss/Lajoie, but Cy Young might have to wait. I'm trying to knock out as many different and difficult/semi-difficult backs as possible. Then my plan is to move to the horizontal cards. After that, I'll have to decide if I want to target another team (Louisville or St. Louis) or target backs. Now, by taking people's advice, I'm also not limiting myself to these. If I see a deal that would be hard to pass up, I'm absolutely considering it. But it's a marathon, not a sprint, which is a saying I came up with and haven't heard before. ![]() Thank you all, again, for your input and advice! I really enjoy being a new(er) member of the Net54 community, which is by far the best community I've come across in the hobby.
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors - Grover Hartley PC - Jim Thome PC - Cleveland Sports Hall of Fame |
#29
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you have the right attitude and right approach!!
you will love the journey.... I love that you are looking at less condition more rarer back..... some front combos with "common" backs are 1 of 1's or very limited in print.... the "rarer" backs" are so fun, even the "mid range backs ( hindu , pied 42's) are really fun.... try getting bargains on ebay......ones that are "buy it now" just listed....you can get rare cards worth over 1 k for pennies if you are lucky or quick enough.... Pete G and Bryan and others are a master of this.... email me, call, text, pm me......I will help with your journey... but a lesson first..... ![]() please don't let money or greed ever fuel your passion......people are worth more than cardboard! we all get over- zealous (sometimes, even myself).... remember, we are only "leasing" these things while we are on earth, you can't take it with you ![]() but your legacy will live on, and how you treat each others... Peace ![]() |
#30
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My fiancee and I got Chinese last night. I took this as a sign...
The Chinese Gods believe I can/will finish The Monster. ![]()
__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors - Grover Hartley PC - Jim Thome PC - Cleveland Sports Hall of Fame |
#31
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I just buy any T206 that I can afford and I like the looks of. Not scientific at all but it keeps me entertained.
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Bill Potter T206 Beater Collection currently at 51/524 |
#32
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What did the fortune cookie say?
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#33
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__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors - Grover Hartley PC - Jim Thome PC - Cleveland Sports Hall of Fame |
#34
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Man who wears broad leaf is a proud member.
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RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER FATHER. GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH WORTHLESS NON-FUNGIBLES 274/1000 Monster Number |
#35
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Funny...my last fortune cookie said, "He who wears a broad leaf is compensating for something.........".
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#36
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The one before that read, "It doesn't matter if you have an American Beauty if you don't know how to Uzit.".
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#37
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There's no set amount on what to get. Just start with cards that you like first. Browse listings if you see a card in a grade you like going for cheap get it while you can. Some cards/player fluctuate and become much more expensive throughout time. You can wind up wishing you got a card when you had the chance. Titus, Durham, Adkins, etc. Quote:
I've also made some minor upgrades along the way when, quite simply, the chance arose. Same instance I found that I was able to purchase a card that I already had in better condition cheaply. Then sold the lower grade of the two.
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429/524 Off of the monster 81% 49/76 HOF's 64% 18/20 Overlooked by Cooperstown 90% 22/39 Unique Backs 56% 80/86 Minors 93% 25/48 Southern Leaguers 52% 6/10 Billy Sullivan back run 60% 237PSA / 94 SGC / 98 RAW Excel spreadsheets only $5 T3, T201, T202, T204, T205, T206, T207, 1914 CJ, 1915 CJ, Topps 1952-1979, and more!!!! Checklists sold (20) T205 8/208 3.8% Last edited by Joshchisox08; 12-04-2016 at 04:21 PM. |
#38
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429/524 Off of the monster 81% 49/76 HOF's 64% 18/20 Overlooked by Cooperstown 90% 22/39 Unique Backs 56% 80/86 Minors 93% 25/48 Southern Leaguers 52% 6/10 Billy Sullivan back run 60% 237PSA / 94 SGC / 98 RAW Excel spreadsheets only $5 T3, T201, T202, T204, T205, T206, T207, 1914 CJ, 1915 CJ, Topps 1952-1979, and more!!!! Checklists sold (20) T205 8/208 3.8% Last edited by Joshchisox08; 12-04-2016 at 04:29 PM. |
#39
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![]() You don't want your significant other to "get over" your passion, and you probably don't want to make it about the money (since, as you noted, your estimate will be low-end; prices on this set have steadily climbed, after all). These are little pieces of art and history; share them with her. Let her see your enthusiasm. Maybe she'll enjoy them. At the very least, she'll (hopefully) recognize that everyone has hobbies, and baseball cards are pretty harmless. And, in the case of t206, if you have to justify the spending, they're (a) very liquid, and (b) pretty steadily increasing in value, and not just for nice copies. My wife really likes my t206s. Not as much as she likes her 1940 Play Balls, but she has her thing and I have mine. ![]() Other than that, I'll just echo what others have said. Buy what you like, take time to appreciate your collection, and don't hesitate to ask questions. There is an absolutely ridiculous amount of knowledge on this board, and not just about t206. Welcome to the addiction! And congrats on the engagement. |
#40
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__________________
Need a spreadsheet to help track your set, player run, or collection? Check out Sheets4Collectors on Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Sheets4Collectors - Grover Hartley PC - Jim Thome PC - Cleveland Sports Hall of Fame |
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