Approaching The Monster - T206

Jobu · #1 11-29-2016, 01:24 PM

I am not a set guy, but if you are starting fresh you might budget extra for years 1-2 and target HOFers. Prices on HOFers tend to rise more quickly than commons so it makes sense to get those first rather than last as the commons won't appreciate a ton. Also, not sure of your budget, but I like the idea suggested above for aiming to get one of each back type (factory #s included!) as you put together your set. Things like BL 460 and Brown Old Mill might never happen, but I still really enjoy having several different backs and I have never had anything tougher than a Carolina Brights.

drmondobueno · #2 11-29-2016, 01:36 PM

I started chasing the set in earnest in 2012, buying lower grade commons and lots. (Buy in lots when you can). I had an unspoken goal to get a short set done in two years, and I did.

My focus shifted to the HOF cards and found I liked the assurance I had with graded cards. There are a lot of trimmed cards out there, which is fine because many of these cards look really nice. Unfortunately, a number of these were not presented as trimmed and I paid a price dealing with that. This is another reason to use the BST. You may run into a few issues but I can tell you the guys on this list are invested in the hobby and will treat you well.

And then I sprung for a red Cobb, SGC 60, beautiful registration, perfect centering. There went my budget. I put money into the HOF and scarcer cards and gave up upgrading my lower grade commons once I realized my budget was getting away from me. I got burned out, can you believe it!

So, take your time, stick to your budget and buy what you like. Cards will be there when you are ready for them!

Have fun! Oh yeah, get yerself into Frank's Monster thread if you have not already...

Keith

CollectingAmericasPastime · #3 11-29-2016, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drmondobueno

I started chasing the set in earnest in 2012, buying lower grade commons and lots. (Buy in lots when you can). I had an unspoken goal to get a short set done in two years, and I did.

My focus shifted to the HOF cards and found I liked the assurance I had with graded cards. There are a lot of trimmed cards out there, which is fine because many of these cards look really nice. Unfortunately, a number of these were not presented as trimmed and I paid a price dealing with that. This is another reason to use the BST. You may run into a few issues but I can tell you the guys on this list are invested in the hobby and will treat you well.

And then I sprung for a red Cobb, SGC 60, beautiful registration, perfect centering. There went my budget. I put money into the HOF and scarcer cards and gave up upgrading my lower grade commons once I realized my budget was getting away from me. I got burned out, can you believe it!

So, take your time, stick to your budget and buy what you like. Cards will be there when you are ready for them!

Have fun! Oh yeah, get yerself into Frank's Monster thread if you have not already...

Keith

Keith -

Thank you very much for the advice. Are you suggesting to go with graded for the entire set?

Definitely going to get myself into Frank's Monster thread. I've been reading through that thread. Pretty impressive what some people have.

drmondobueno · #4 11-29-2016, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KMayUSA6060

Keith -

Thank you very much for the advice. Are you suggesting to go with graded for the entire set?

Definitely going to get myself into Frank's Monster thread. I've been reading through that thread. Pretty impressive what some people have.

I am saying a graded card gives you a collectible that is darn near a commodity, with a clearly definable market value. And the flip does a pretty good job of maintaining that condition. Some cards are museum worthy pieces of art and are an honor to own, even for a short period. And yeah, I did the Registry bit for a while, not just with T 206 but a nice T201 and Clemente collection. But I digress.

To be honest, the Monster cards I presently own are nearly all ungraded, warts and all, and are a joy to handle. I am also a fan of cards with backstamps and handwriting. Just something about a card that was well loved over the last hundred or so years. Something timeless about that.

I did not get caught up in a firm minimum condition, as I found, for example, I cared little for the southern league cards or cards with print defects. I bought cards I liked and could afford. Registration is everything for me. Thankfully I am not OCD so centering I could overlook on occasion.

Take your time, enjoy the ride.

Sean · #5 11-29-2016, 09:56 PM

Lots of good advice here. As a couple guys already mentioned, if you get a chance to get a big card, go for it. It may kill your budget for a while, but the commons will always be available. The big cards will go up quicker, so get them if you can, and it's fun to have a couple big cards as a "centerpiece" for your collection, even if your collection is still small.

And if you find yourself losing focus, step aside for a few months. You can come back to the cards when you're ready again. It happens to all of us at one time or another.

Good luck, and feel free to PM if you have questions.

T206Collector · #6 11-30-2016, 01:40 AM

I encourage you to stay flexible with your approach. A rigid adherence to anything over 10 years is a challenge -- particularly when it's supposed to be a fun hobby. I've been collecting T206s for nearly 20 years now, and "completed" one set about 10 years in and am on the verge of doing it again -- I'm back up to 514, having sold off most of the first set back in 2007, but there is some overlap. My focus is still evolving, even this far in. And I even go through some months or years with little to no interest in T206s. When you give up, don't admit it; and when you're going strong don't think the fever will be consistent or last forever.

Remember, the Monster wants you to quit. Don't listen to it.

CollectingAmericasPastime · #7 11-29-2016, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jobu

I am not a set guy, but if you are starting fresh you might budget extra for years 1-2 and target HOFers. Prices on HOFers tend to rise more quickly than commons so it makes sense to get those first rather than last as the commons won't appreciate a ton. Also, not sure of your budget, but I like the idea suggested above for aiming to get one of each back type (factory #s included!) as you put together your set. Things like BL 460 and Brown Old Mill might never happen, but I still really enjoy having several different backs and I have never had anything tougher than a Carolina Brights.

Yeah I definitely like that idea of the backs. I just wasn't sure if the uniform look was better or not.

frankbmd · #8 11-29-2016, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jobu

I am not a set guy, but if you are starting fresh you might budget extra for years 1-2 and target HOFers. Prices on HOFers tend to rise more quickly than commons so it makes sense to get those first rather than last as the commons won't appreciate a ton. Also, not sure of your budget, but I like the idea suggested above for aiming to get one of each back type (factory #s included!) as you put together your set. Things like BL 460 and Brown Old Mill might never happen, but I still really enjoy having several different backs and I have never had anything tougher than a Carolina Brights.

In the long run you may find that a ton of commons appreciating a little is just as good as a little "pile" of HOFers appreciating a ton, if you consider ROI on a percentage basis rather than dollars and cents per card.

If you are a budget conscious set minded collector, buy what you can at the "right" price when it becomes available. Passing up a great deal on a Snodgrass because he didn't make the HOF seems unwise.

It is also likely that, in ten years or less, whatever your master plan is now, it will change.

nebboy · #9 11-29-2016, 02:51 PM

I'm doing T205 set which is much easier but I knew it would be a long term 10 year type project so I got a lot of Hofs and SP cards first. And commons when the price was right. I know over time the harder cards would go up faster that commons and wanted to tackle that ASAP. If I changed my mind I could finish a HOF or similar subset. I'm just over half away, on schedule and have most of the harder cards bought.

Bpm0014 · #10 11-29-2016, 03:04 PM

There is no right or wrong way. I suggest that you go for the 520-524. Simply buy a card, put it in the binder, and check it off the list! That's what I did. 8 years later, I have 504 in the binder and counting..... Good luck!

Joshchisox08 · #11 12-04-2016, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nebboy

I'm doing T205 set which is much easier but I knew it would be a long term 10 year type project so I got a lot of Hofs and SP cards first. And commons when the price was right. I know over time the harder cards would go up faster that commons and wanted to tackle that ASAP. If I changed my mind I could finish a HOF or similar subset. I'm just over half away, on schedule and have most of the harder cards bought.

I would love to tackle that set someday. If I ever finish T206 I'm going after the gold borders for sure.

wolf441 · #12 11-29-2016, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankbmd

It is also likely that, in ten years or less, whatever your master plan is now, it will change.

As usual, Frank said it best. No matter what your "ten year goal" is, life has a way of saying...."not so fast".

CollectingAmericasPastime · #13 11-29-2016, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolf441

As usual, Frank said it best. No matter what your "ten year goal" is, life has a way of saying...."not so fast".

Excellent Lee Corso reference.

You and others are right - this is so true.

Bocabirdman · #14 11-30-2016, 05:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankbmd

In the long run you may find that a ton of commons appreciating a little is just as good as a little "pile" of HOFers appreciating a ton, if you consider ROI on a percentage basis rather than dollars and cents per card.

If you are a budget conscious set minded collector, buy what you can at the "right" price when it becomes available. Passing up a great deal on a Snodgrass because he didn't make the HOF seems unwise.

It is also likely that, in ten years or less, whatever your master plan is now, it will change.

This is a very true statement. Do not forget that over the next ten years your budget/life will change considerably. Also, as you move closer to the end of the Monster, you will likely find ways to extend the journey. Upgrades, switching to slabs, back runs and Lord knows what else, will seem like a great idea when YOU think of them. The friendships that you develop, the inbound bubble mailer addiction, even sharing your acquisitions in Frank's thread, all will make your Monster Chase a satisfying, lifelong pursuit. Good Luck, my friend. Enjoy the ride.

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