Approaching The Monster - T206

[KMayUSA6060]

Originally Posted by BruceinGa

My strategy is similar to yours, although I haven't written it down. Maybe I will do that this afternoon.
Since this thread is about you strategy I won't go into mine too much.
Good luck with acquiring 50 a year, it should be obtainable.
I like sgc 60 (5) with good centering, more $$ but I'm particular.
I also like the different backs, just don't see me buying many at the grade I want.
As for storage. I want all slabbed cards. I plan to scan mine, front and back, keeping them in a binder.
Good luck, you're an inspiration.

The different backs is an interesting conundrum because of the look in binders. That's where my dilemma comes.

As far as keeping yours in binders, are you referring to the scans or the slabs?

[BruceinGa]

Originally Posted by KMayUSA6060

As far as keeping yours in binders, are you referring to the scans or the slabs?

Scans. Someone posted here last week mentioning that they did that. I experimented gluing the front scan to the back scan, making a card. That took too much time. Now I think I'll scan front and back, put both in a file trimming that and inserting it in a page protector. I need to check out the available sizes for protectors.
For my slabs I use Sterilite 6 qt boxes with tops. They are available around here at Big Lots for $1.

[KMayUSA6060]

Originally Posted by BruceinGa

Scans. Someone posted here last week mentioning that they did that. I experimented gluing the front scan to the back scan, making a card. That took too much time. Now I think I'll scan front and back, put both in a file trimming that and inserting it in a page protector. I need to check out the available sizes for protectors.
For my slabs I use Sterilite 6 qt boxes with tops. They are available around here at Big Lots for $1.

Ah ok. Very nice.

I like the idea of the Sterilite boxes. I have seen that done before by a guy on YouTube and need to get some myself.

[Luke]

A lot of good advice already. I would add one thing. You should be aware that your wants may change as you get used to the set. I started with a pretty similar strategy as you and hit a wall about 175 cards in. I had won an auction for a nice VG Jeff Sweeney with Piedmont back at a really good price, but when it came in the mail I wasn't at all excited about it and didn't open it for like 3 weeks. I realized that I wasn't really into my original goals anymore, so I sold a bunch of the lower grade cards and re-focused.

Nowadays I am a back collector and I don't really plan to ever finish the set. As long as I enjoy each and every card I pick up, I am happy.

Not saying this or something similar will happen to you, but it might. You might start out collecting cards in poor-good but then win a few PSA 4s at good prices and realize you like them much better than your PSA 1s. Things like that can happen and your wants can change.

[KMayUSA6060]

Originally Posted by LukeLyon

A lot of good advice already. I would add one thing. You should be aware that your wants may change as you get used to the set. I started with a pretty similar strategy as you and hit a wall about 175 cards in. I had won an auction for a nice VG Jeff Sweeney with Piedmont back at a really good price, but when it came in the mail I wasn't at all excited about it and didn't open it for like 3 weeks. I realized that I wasn't really into my original goals anymore, so I sold a bunch of the lower grade cards and re-focused.

Nowadays I am a back collector and I don't really plan to ever finish the set. As long as I enjoy each and every card I pick up, I am happy.

Not saying this or something similar will happen to you, but it might. You might start out collecting cards in poor-good but then win a few PSA 4s at good prices and realize you like them much better than your PSA 1s. Things like that can happen and your wants can change.

That's why I think I want to approach this with a 10-year mindset. That way I can still pick up some other cards, and hold the interest in completing the set.

[Jobu]

I am not a set guy, but if you are starting fresh you might budget extra for years 1-2 and target HOFers. Prices on HOFers tend to rise more quickly than commons so it makes sense to get those first rather than last as the commons won't appreciate a ton. Also, not sure of your budget, but I like the idea suggested above for aiming to get one of each back type (factory #s included!) as you put together your set. Things like BL 460 and Brown Old Mill might never happen, but I still really enjoy having several different backs and I have never had anything tougher than a Carolina Brights.

[drmondobueno]

I started chasing the set in earnest in 2012, buying lower grade commons and lots. (Buy in lots when you can). I had an unspoken goal to get a short set done in two years, and I did.

My focus shifted to the HOF cards and found I liked the assurance I had with graded cards. There are a lot of trimmed cards out there, which is fine because many of these cards look really nice. Unfortunately, a number of these were not presented as trimmed and I paid a price dealing with that. This is another reason to use the BST. You may run into a few issues but I can tell you the guys on this list are invested in the hobby and will treat you well.

And then I sprung for a red Cobb, SGC 60, beautiful registration, perfect centering. There went my budget. I put money into the HOF and scarcer cards and gave up upgrading my lower grade commons once I realized my budget was getting away from me. I got burned out, can you believe it!

So, take your time, stick to your budget and buy what you like. Cards will be there when you are ready for them!

Have fun! Oh yeah, get yerself into Frank's Monster thread if you have not already...

Keith

[KMayUSA6060]

Originally Posted by drmondobueno

I started chasing the set in earnest in 2012, buying lower grade commons and lots. (Buy in lots when you can). I had an unspoken goal to get a short set done in two years, and I did.

My focus shifted to the HOF cards and found I liked the assurance I had with graded cards. There are a lot of trimmed cards out there, which is fine because many of these cards look really nice. Unfortunately, a number of these were not presented as trimmed and I paid a price dealing with that. This is another reason to use the BST. You may run into a few issues but I can tell you the guys on this list are invested in the hobby and will treat you well.

And then I sprung for a red Cobb, SGC 60, beautiful registration, perfect centering. There went my budget. I put money into the HOF and scarcer cards and gave up upgrading my lower grade commons once I realized my budget was getting away from me. I got burned out, can you believe it!

So, take your time, stick to your budget and buy what you like. Cards will be there when you are ready for them!

Have fun! Oh yeah, get yerself into Frank's Monster thread if you have not already...

Keith

Keith -

Thank you very much for the advice. Are you suggesting to go with graded for the entire set?

Definitely going to get myself into Frank's Monster thread. I've been reading through that thread. Pretty impressive what some people have.

[KMayUSA6060]

Originally Posted by Jobu

I am not a set guy, but if you are starting fresh you might budget extra for years 1-2 and target HOFers. Prices on HOFers tend to rise more quickly than commons so it makes sense to get those first rather than last as the commons won't appreciate a ton. Also, not sure of your budget, but I like the idea suggested above for aiming to get one of each back type (factory #s included!) as you put together your set. Things like BL 460 and Brown Old Mill might never happen, but I still really enjoy having several different backs and I have never had anything tougher than a Carolina Brights.

Yeah I definitely like that idea of the backs. I just wasn't sure if the uniform look was better or not.

[frankbmd]

Originally Posted by Jobu

I am not a set guy, but if you are starting fresh you might budget extra for years 1-2 and target HOFers. Prices on HOFers tend to rise more quickly than commons so it makes sense to get those first rather than last as the commons won't appreciate a ton. Also, not sure of your budget, but I like the idea suggested above for aiming to get one of each back type (factory #s included!) as you put together your set. Things like BL 460 and Brown Old Mill might never happen, but I still really enjoy having several different backs and I have never had anything tougher than a Carolina Brights.

In the long run you may find that a ton of commons appreciating a little is just as good as a little "pile" of HOFers appreciating a ton, if you consider ROI on a percentage basis rather than dollars and cents per card.

If you are a budget conscious set minded collector, buy what you can at the "right" price when it becomes available. Passing up a great deal on a Snodgrass because he didn't make the HOF seems unwise.

It is also likely that, in ten years or less, whatever your master plan is now, it will change.

[nebboy]

I'm doing T205 set which is much easier but I knew it would be a long term 10 year type project so I got a lot of Hofs and SP cards first. And commons when the price was right. I know over time the harder cards would go up faster that commons and wanted to tackle that ASAP. If I changed my mind I could finish a HOF or similar subset. I'm just over half away, on schedule and have most of the harder cards bought.

[wolf441]

Originally Posted by frankbmd

It is also likely that, in ten years or less, whatever your master plan is now, it will change.

As usual, Frank said it best. No matter what your "ten year goal" is, life has a way of saying...."not so fast".

[Bocabirdman]

Originally Posted by frankbmd

In the long run you may find that a ton of commons appreciating a little is just as good as a little "pile" of HOFers appreciating a ton, if you consider ROI on a percentage basis rather than dollars and cents per card.

If you are a budget conscious set minded collector, buy what you can at the "right" price when it becomes available. Passing up a great deal on a Snodgrass because he didn't make the HOF seems unwise.

It is also likely that, in ten years or less, whatever your master plan is now, it will change.

This is a very true statement. Do not forget that over the next ten years your budget/life will change considerably. Also, as you move closer to the end of the Monster, you will likely find ways to extend the journey. Upgrades, switching to slabs, back runs and Lord knows what else, will seem like a great idea when YOU think of them. The friendships that you develop, the inbound bubble mailer addiction, even sharing your acquisitions in Frank's thread, all will make your Monster Chase a satisfying, lifelong pursuit. Good Luck, my friend. Enjoy the ride.

[wolf441]

I would advise to stick with graded cards. You have an admirable goal and I did something similar, but at some point or when you complete the set, you may find yourself wanting to sell. At that point, graded cards will, for the most part, sell for more than raw and you don't want to pay to have all of your raw cards graded. Let someone else pay that expense and buy them already slabbed. Best of luck!

The backs are fun as well. You can try to pick up at least one of each back (or at least the non-Uzit, Drums, etc... to start). Keep that as part of your checklist.

I liked to look for SGC cards that were graded lower because of things like back stamps, which technically drop the condition grade, but which I think really add to your collection. It's neat to see a stamp that tells a small story of what the original owner was doing over 100 years ago...

Best,

Steve