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#1
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If you had complete sets of 1959 and 1960 topps baseball that were raw and high grade. All well centered and sharp. Would you further invest in the cost of psa grading the sets or be content with a high grade set in a binder?
Didn't realize how hard and expensive this was going to be and want to do it right. |
#2
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For protection purposes alone, I would get them graded... Also if you ever decided to sell for , it would be much easier, and most likely get top dollar! Good luck
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#3
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If the were centered and sharpe I would never put them in a binder.and if I never thought I would sell them I would say a top loader, penny sleeve, and team bag would do the trick.
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Just a collector that likes to talk and read about the Hobby. 🤓👍🏼 |
#4
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Grade the HOFers and use Card Savers in 4 pocket sheets for the rest
Last edited by toppcat; 03-26-2017 at 04:49 PM. |
#5
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Thanks for the input!
So even keeping them raw, l shouldn't keep them in 9 pocket sheets in a binder? I have noticed that the cards move around alot. |
#6
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Wait till PSA has a $6 / card monthly special. Good Luck with your sale ! |
#7
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Ignore this advice. The SMR price guide is a joke.
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Actively collecting Carl Yastrzemski ! Also 1964 & 68 Topps Venezuelans |
#8
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I mean this in a positive way - your high grade cards will stay high grade if you leave them ungraded.
And what I mean by this is that if you've never done it before, prepare for disappointment. Not every time, but enough to make a person upset, especially your first time. My advice would be to send in your best single card from the set and your worst - grade them hard yourself, based on the standards of whoever you're sending them to, and put down what you thought before sending them in writing. See where they come in and go from there - if they're a 9 and a 8, send them all in! If this is for your own enjoyment, even more so. If not and you intend to sell, then maybe grade the biggest stars and state they are representative of the condition of the set. Grading costs reduce profit margins significantly. So choose wisely what works best for you... If you just want protection, you can get pretty nice snap holders now that protect the card from moving inside and stack neatly for storage for pretty cheap in bulk. Make your own labels and have fun with it... Cheers, Tim PS - I have some cards graded from time to time (SGC) despite knowing that they're never coming back high grade - so take my advice with a grain of salt. For me, I like testing myself as a grader of my own cards - and 3-5 is not usually worth grading for Post-War cards, especially commons (unless they're very rare commons). |
#9
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Personally, I would do as Timbegs said. Send in your best and your worst to see where they stand. With your commons, I would use sleeves and top loaders or the snap loaders as mentioned.
__________________
52 Topps cards. https://www.flickr.com/photos/144160280@N05/ http://www.net54baseball.com/album.php?albumid=922 |
#10
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Grade the stars, and cardsaver 1's for the commons.
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#11
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I appreciate the input. Gives me alot to think about. What is the interest and appeal of an entirely raw set?
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#12
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They aint making any more raw sets; they are going to be just a valuable in the future. |
#13
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People love to buy high end raw from longtime collectors. The chance for 8's-9's will get you some serious action.
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#14
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Cards stored in 9-page sheets in a binder can definitely get damaged, but mainly through degradation of the sheets or through humidity. Personally, if they were high grade, I would move them all to Card Saver 1s as well. Carrying the books around could also lead to surface damage by the cards sliding around in the pages.
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-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
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