Whats the most you'll feel comfortable paying for an ungraded prewar card?

[priestc]

I'm looking to purchase a prewar card (leaning towards T206) of a "discount" hall of fame player (No Ty Cobb or Babe Ruth). I want to buy it ungraded. All the cards in my collection are ungraded. Obviously it's not a good idea to spend $3000 on a card not graded, but what about an $80 card? Is my assertion corect that if it's a "midrange" card, it is not likely to be fake? I just don't want to buy a fake card...

[Cozumeleno]

For me it would depend on the condition. If someone were selling me something purported to be a high-grade card, probably only a couple hundred dollars. There, I'd be more concerned about trimming, added color, etc.

If it was a low-grade card, I'd be more inclined to spend a little more if it was a type of card I'd handled before. In that case, I'd be mostly only concerned about authenticity/less about missing a significant flaw, and feel I could adequately determine that on cards I was familiar with. I've bought raw low-grade cards up to about $700.

[EvilKing00]

Price would depend on the player and condition. If u want a non graded card please make sure what your buying isnt fake, cause there r many fakes out there.

I have spent 40.00 on hof t205 players and i spent a few hundred on t205 players. Just depends. But if i was new to a set, i first try to learn it before dropping avfew hundred on a card that may b fake

[iwantitiwinit]

I'd never buy an ungraded card.

[x2drich2000]

I agree with the others to make sure what you are buying is not a fake. If you are buying on ebay, make sure the seller is reputable. As far as how much I would spend for a raw prewar card, it will depend on the player and set, but last week I bid over $725 for one card and lost Ironically, I would have more concern buying a raw 54 Aaron, 63 Rose or 69 Jackson at that price then some prewar cards.

DJ

[Exhibitman]

In person is a completely different situation. I will readily spend four figures on a card I can inspect. Mail order really depends on the seller. Someone I don't know on eBay is one thing but a person I know and trust is another story.

[Billy5858]

Originally Posted by x2drich2000

I agree with the others to make sure what you are buying is not a fake. If you are buying on ebay, make sure the seller is reputable. As far as how much I would spend for a raw prewar card, it will depend on the player and set, but last week I bid over $725 for one card and lost Ironically, I would have more concern buying a raw 54 Aaron, 63 Rose or 69 Jackson at that price then some prewar cards.

DJ

+1 I agree Be extra careful with Postwar
Rookies and Cobb esp Green T206. Seems like
everyone and their mom know about these cards
nowadays. I wouldn't worry to much about
a second tier T206 Hoffer. BUT ya never know

[bbcard1]

Originally Posted by iwantitiwinit

I'd never buy an ungraded card.

I would never or seldom buy a graded card. Guess we won't be chopping wood in each other's forest!

[clydepepper]

Originally Posted by iwantitiwinit

I'd never buy an ungraded card.

+1 - though I have bought some raw cards for $30-40.

I believe you have a good idea to stay away from better-known cards as those are the ones most likely to be forged.

You should do your homework before purchasing, though. Be familiar not only with the actual card, but the set to which it belongs.

Developing working relationships with good partners is vital.

I have always been satisfied with those I have dealt with on the BST and on the board in general.

[BBB]

Originally Posted by iwantitiwinit

I'd never buy an ungraded card.

+1


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[Billy5858]

I buy T205 T206 graded only for Hoffers
and Southern Leaguers. With Commons I buy raw
from people that you can trust on here and
on EBay. You will get a feel for bad sellers and
funky looking cards after awhile. If I have any doubts (bad photo etc)
Bad reviews....low ratings.....I pass. There are some
well known bad sellers you will learn about who are on EBay
If you follow this blog

[glynparson]

However much i have to spend.

[nat]

"How much would you be willing to pay?" isn't really a good question. Someone upthread was talking about spending 20k on a card. I wouldn't spend 20k on a card if it was authenticated by God Himself, just because I'm not about to spend that much money on a baseball card.

Much better questions are: is it ever safe to buy a raw card? And, how do you minimize your risks when doing so?

The answer to the first question is "yes". I buy raw all the time. Now, there are some cards that it would be foolish to buy raw: 52 Mantle, 33 Ruth, Frojoys, the stuff that gets counterfeited all the time. But there's nothing wrong with raw pre se.

As for minimizing your risks, it's mostly common sense stuff. Buy from reputable people. Preferably people you know, if not that, then people with lots of good feedback. If they have negs, read the negs to see what people were complaining about. If it's shipping time, big deal. If they've been caught selling counterfeits, well...
Be familiar with the set you're buying. Learn how to authenticate the cards yourself once you get them. And that part is fun; I always enjoy putting new acquisitions under the blacklight and the magnifier.

Spotting alterations is often harder than spotting counterfeits, and always a risk with raw cards. For my part, I don't care much. My cards are mostly in binders, and will never be graded. So if I can't tell that a card has been trimmed, if it has that fact will never make a difference to me.

The one factor where price of the card really is relevant is this: for any raw card, you should ask yourself why it's not graded. If it's a $20 card the answer is probably that it's not worth the grading fee. But if the card is worth hundreds or thousands of dollars, there is reason to be suspicious. It could all be kosher - maybe the card came straight from a collection like mine, kept raw in binders. Or maybe someone is trying to get away with something. (Knowing who you are buying from, at least by reputation, will help with this.)

[Leon]

It is all relative. I had a guarantee on the 20+k card and knew the guy (a board member) very well. Had it not had a touch up it would have been great. Otherwise, you have some great suggestions and people would do well to heed the advice.

Originally Posted by nat

"How much would you be willing to pay?" isn't really a good question. Someone upthread was talking about spending 20k on a card. I wouldn't spend 20k on a card if it was authenticated by God Himself, just because I'm not about to spend that much money on a baseball card.

Much better questions are: is it ever safe to buy a raw card? And, how do you minimize your risks when doing so?

The answer to the first question is "yes". I buy raw all the time. Now, there are some cards that it would be foolish to buy raw: 52 Mantle, 33 Ruth, Frojoys, the stuff that gets counterfeited all the time. But there's nothing wrong with raw pre se.

As for minimizing your risks, it's mostly common sense stuff. Buy from reputable people. Preferably people you know, if not that, then people with lots of good feedback. If they have negs, read the negs to see what people were complaining about. If it's shipping time, big deal. If they've been caught selling counterfeits, well...
Be familiar with the set you're buying. Learn how to authenticate the cards yourself once you get them. And that part is fun; I always enjoy putting new acquisitions under the blacklight and the magnifier.

Spotting alterations is often harder than spotting counterfeits, and always a risk with raw cards. For my part, I don't care much. My cards are mostly in binders, and will never be graded. So if I can't tell that a card has been trimmed, if it has that fact will never make a difference to me.

The one factor where price of the card really is relevant is this: for any raw card, you should ask yourself why it's not graded. If it's a $20 card the answer is probably that it's not worth the grading fee. But if the card is worth hundreds or thousands of dollars, there is reason to be suspicious. It could all be kosher - maybe the card came straight from a collection like mine, kept raw in binders. Or maybe someone is trying to get away with something. (Knowing who you are buying from, at least by reputation, will help with this.)

[Danny Smith]

It's all about the seller for me.