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  #1  
Old 05-30-2012, 02:46 PM
Ronnie73 Ronnie73 is offline
Ron Kornacki - Uncle Nacki
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I'm a front/back collector so the condition depends on the back. Common backs, I try for no less than PSA 4/SGC 50. Uncommon and rare backs, PSA 1 to PSA 4 or SGC 10 to SGC 50. No qualifers on the PSA's and no writing or major paper loss on the SGC's.
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  #2  
Old 05-30-2012, 02:56 PM
t206blogcom t206blogcom is offline
Jason Stricker
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When I started my T206 set, I was an avid raw collector, willing to take beaters and trimmed cards. As my set evolved, I eventually took a liking to graded cards and cards of higher grades. As for my set grade, it ranges from raw partial cards (corners missing) to 4's and 5's.
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  #3  
Old 05-30-2012, 03:01 PM
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t206hound t206hound is offline
€r!©k §µmmær$
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Default I'm different from most

I'm different from most and only buy/keep cards in SGC 40. I stumbled upon this when I was looking through my initial attempt of "any condition" SGC holders about two years ago. I had 100+ cards in SGC 10-50, but the fact that I had such a wide disparity in condition bothered me. I decided on 40s because of the ratio of eye appeal to cost. Don't get me wrong, there's still a wide range of conditions in SGC 40 holders, and I still consider eye appeal when buying.

So... my goal is 520 (Piedmont, Sweet Cap, Polar Bear, Old Mill backs only) in SGC 40 for a net cost of around $10K. Right now I'm a little over half way and in around $4K but still have some BIG cards to get: Cobbs, Johnsons, Youngs. Once I get them all, the set will be sold and I'll start on another. To me it's all about the chase...
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  #4  
Old 05-30-2012, 03:15 PM
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bunst bunst is offline
Brian J0hns0n
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t206hound View Post
So... my goal is 520 (Piedmont, Sweet Cap, Polar Bear, Old Mill backs only) in SGC 40 for a net cost of around $10K. Right now I'm a little over half way and in around $4K but still have some BIG cards to get: Cobbs, Johnsons, Youngs. Once I get them all, the set will be sold and I'll start on another. To me it's all about the chase...
Erick,
So you think it is possible to build a SGC 40 set (520) for $10K? My thinking was that I'd have to spend at least $15K to achieve that. Probably you got some good deals in the past to help you with that figure...or made some good profit on your sales?
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  #5  
Old 05-30-2012, 03:36 PM
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g_vezina_c55 g_vezina_c55 is offline
nels0n aud.et
 
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i build my t206 set in VG or less grade.

I have arround 95 t206 graded by psa and sgc but now i buy Raw cards because of the price, and the space.... graded card take too much space in my safe.

I work on a 522 cards set with the magie and the plank.

I will never be able to afford Wagner or Doyle. I have no concern at this time for back.... i only have SC, piedmont and a couple polar bear back.

I am a front collector.

Last edited by g_vezina_c55; 05-30-2012 at 03:38 PM.
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  #6  
Old 05-30-2012, 04:16 PM
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SushiX37 SushiX37 is offline
Rich
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Join Date: May 2012
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I only collect T206 cards graded by PSA. I know some might frown on this, but I've always been a fan of theirs, and really don't care for how other companies slab their cards.

That being said, most of mine are PSA 3. I will buy 1s and 2s if they are reasonable, but would prefer them in a 3.

Rich
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  #7  
Old 05-30-2012, 05:24 PM
Pup6913
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Since I buy for my daughter they are what ever condition I can get at $10-15 each. Some are nice and some are rough
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  #8  
Old 05-30-2012, 05:39 PM
Cardboard Junkie Cardboard Junkie is offline
David Pierson
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I collect all grades t206s but try to avoid any with paper loss or pin holes or marks.....creases and round corners are ok with me. All raw...if I buy graded I bust em out. aloha, dave.
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  #9  
Old 05-30-2012, 06:44 PM
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t206hound t206hound is offline
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Default My figures...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bunst View Post
Erick,
So you think it is possible to build a SGC 40 set (520) for $10K? My thinking was that I'd have to spend at least $15K to achieve that. Probably you got some good deals in the past to help you with that figure...or made some good profit on your sales?
Some good deals, but mostly profit from sales. "50s pay for 40s" is my slogan... I buy mostly raw and get anything that I think is 40 or higher graded. The cards that come back that I don't need are sold/traded.
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  #10  
Old 05-30-2012, 07:02 PM
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frankbmd frankbmd is offline
Fr@nk Burke++
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Default Monster Specs

My monster on the SGC grading scale carries an average grade of 44, or about 3.5 (VG+), but the standard deviation is great.

Best card 7.5 (86)
Best HOF 5.5 (70)
Second best HOF 5.5 (70)

Average cost per card $57.47
Average cost per HOFer $152.79

Most expensive $ 2400.00
Least expensive $ 6.50

Weight of the monster (85% graded) is about 81 pounds. If it was !00% ungraded, the weight would be 8.2 pounds.

Living with my monster...............priceless
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  #11  
Old 05-30-2012, 07:30 PM
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Runscott Runscott is offline
Belltown Vintage
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I'm looking for PSA 3's. I find that if registration is horrible, or if they have a light crease right through the eyes, I can obtain such cards for minimal cost. Not sure why, since that beautiful PSA flip looks exactly the same, regardless of the card's actual eye appeal.
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  #12  
Old 05-30-2012, 09:17 PM
bbcard1 bbcard1 is offline
T0dd M@rcum
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I would guess my set would average a 2. I have some very nice cards, but mostly well worn and loved and I am ok with that. I normally try to get at least one nice card of every superstar HOFer...probalby a 4 or better of Cobb, Matty, Young, Johnson, Lajoie, etc. My eventual goal is to eliminate all cards with pieces missing, creases across the face, pinholes, etc. i wish I knew what I had in them...or maybe I don't. I am at 519 of 520. Have enjoyed the ride...will probably continue tinkering with the set...I will buy a common or HOFer that I need to upgrade and flip the lesser one to offset some of the costs. Or I'll buy a ten card lot and upgrade what I can then piece out the others hoping to break even...the upgrade is my profit.
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