![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I'm a front/back collector so the condition depends on the back. Common backs, I try for no less than PSA 4/SGC 50. Uncommon and rare backs, PSA 1 to PSA 4 or SGC 10 to SGC 50. No qualifers on the PSA's and no writing or major paper loss on the SGC's.
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
When I started my T206 set, I was an avid raw collector, willing to take beaters and trimmed cards. As my set evolved, I eventually took a liking to graded cards and cards of higher grades. As for my set grade, it ranges from raw partial cards (corners missing) to 4's and 5's.
__________________
T206 518/518 |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I'm different from most and only buy/keep cards in SGC 40. I stumbled upon this when I was looking through my initial attempt of "any condition" SGC holders about two years ago. I had 100+ cards in SGC 10-50, but the fact that I had such a wide disparity in condition bothered me. I decided on 40s because of the ratio of eye appeal to cost. Don't get me wrong, there's still a wide range of conditions in SGC 40 holders, and I still consider eye appeal when buying.
So... my goal is 520 (Piedmont, Sweet Cap, Polar Bear, Old Mill backs only) in SGC 40 for a net cost of around $10K. Right now I'm a little over half way and in around $4K but still have some BIG cards to get: Cobbs, Johnsons, Youngs. Once I get them all, the set will be sold and I'll start on another. To me it's all about the chase... |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
So you think it is possible to build a SGC 40 set (520) for $10K? My thinking was that I'd have to spend at least $15K to achieve that. Probably you got some good deals in the past to help you with that figure...or made some good profit on your sales? |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
i build my t206 set in VG or less grade.
I have arround 95 t206 graded by psa and sgc but now i buy Raw cards because of the price, and the space.... graded card take too much space in my safe. I work on a 522 cards set with the magie and the plank. I will never be able to afford Wagner or Doyle. I have no concern at this time for back.... i only have SC, piedmont and a couple polar bear back. I am a front collector. Last edited by g_vezina_c55; 05-30-2012 at 03:38 PM. |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I only collect T206 cards graded by PSA. I know some might frown on this, but I've always been a fan of theirs, and really don't care for how other companies slab their cards.
That being said, most of mine are PSA 3. I will buy 1s and 2s if they are reasonable, but would prefer them in a 3. Rich |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Since I buy for my daughter they are what ever condition I can get at $10-15 each. Some are nice and some are rough
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I collect all grades t206s but try to avoid any with paper loss or pin holes or marks.....creases and round corners are ok with me. All raw...if I buy graded I bust em out. aloha, dave.
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Some good deals, but mostly profit from sales. "50s pay for 40s" is my slogan... I buy mostly raw and get anything that I think is 40 or higher graded. The cards that come back that I don't need are sold/traded.
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
My monster on the SGC grading scale carries an average grade of 44, or about 3.5 (VG+), but the standard deviation is great.
Best card 7.5 (86) Best HOF 5.5 (70) Second best HOF 5.5 (70) Average cost per card $57.47 Average cost per HOFer $152.79 Most expensive $ 2400.00 Least expensive $ 6.50 Weight of the monster (85% graded) is about 81 pounds. If it was !00% ungraded, the weight would be 8.2 pounds. Living with my monster...............priceless
__________________
RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER FATHER. GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH WORTHLESS NON-FUNGIBLES 274/1000 Monster Number |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I'm looking for PSA 3's. I find that if registration is horrible, or if they have a light crease right through the eyes, I can obtain such cards for minimal cost. Not sure why, since that beautiful PSA flip looks exactly the same, regardless of the card's actual eye appeal.
__________________
$co++ Forre$+ |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I would guess my set would average a 2. I have some very nice cards, but mostly well worn and loved and I am ok with that. I normally try to get at least one nice card of every superstar HOFer...probalby a 4 or better of Cobb, Matty, Young, Johnson, Lajoie, etc. My eventual goal is to eliminate all cards with pieces missing, creases across the face, pinholes, etc. i wish I knew what I had in them...or maybe I don't. I am at 519 of 520. Have enjoyed the ride...will probably continue tinkering with the set...I will buy a common or HOFer that I need to upgrade and flip the lesser one to offset some of the costs. Or I'll buy a ten card lot and upgrade what I can then piece out the others hoping to break even...the upgrade is my profit.
|
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
What's your Monster number? | frankbmd | Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions | 2456 | 12-06-2022 02:52 PM |
1972 Topps 36 Different Poor to EX-MT Condition ENDS 3/10 | BlueDevil89 | Live Auctions - Only 2-3 open, per member, at once. | 14 | 03-10-2012 09:18 PM |
Condition sensitive pre-war card sets? | Archive | Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions | 15 | 01-24-2008 08:59 AM |
Condition, Condition and Condition | Archive | Pre-WWII cards (E, D, M, etc..) B/S/T | 0 | 03-09-2006 03:20 AM |
How To Collect The Monster (T-206 Set) | Archive | Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions | 12 | 12-25-2003 08:25 AM |