![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi Jeff,
The photos aren't that high in resolution but I would say they all appear to be genuine based on the colors, fonts and overall combinations of front to backs. Most reprints have backs that don't line up with the player on the front, and the colors are normally off. The discolorations on some of the cards match what is commonly found on these cards. Also the damage and appearance of some of the cards is also what's considered normal for the period. I think it's a great set with a large variety of HOFer's and a fantastic representation of the more common backs... including that one Sovereign 460 which is actually a fairly tough back. Looks like that set also includes nearly a complete set of all the Sweet Caporal variations too. It's hard to say because of the resolution and not being able to read the factories, but it's clear there are the overprints, and all the varieties from the 150, 350, and 350-460 series. Very nice! Take a look at this site for more information about spotting fakes. http://www.sellbaseballcards101.com/...ds-part-i-font I usually can tell just by seeing them right away... but best thing to do is get a few of the real ones that you can handle (low grade beat up ones) and you'll start to see how unique they really are. It's also important to know all the variety of backs and what they should look like. Know all the colors because they're all unique to the specific company. Fakes are usually in black and white or the color is wrong. The font in the names on the front are usually the best give away too. The printing is very specific for that era, and get acquainted with the norm. Finally the smell and overall look is another immediate sign. The card should smell old, and possibly have a tobacco smell still to it. This isn't always the case, especially with some of the nicer quality cards but it shouldn't be glossy, or have any sheen to it, front or back. The printing on the fronts are also not that high of quality on the real ones... that's why you should grab one or two cheaply graded real ones, or ones you know came from a reputable seller to see what I mean. Up close they're really not that fine of printing but they have a certain character to them. Hope this helps. Jared |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
T206 For Sale-T205 For sale | vic | Tobacco (T) cards, except T206 B/S/T | 5 | 09-04-2011 07:12 PM |
T206 for sale | vic | Tobacco (T) cards, except T206 B/S/T | 10 | 09-04-2011 07:11 PM |
T206 / T205s - all HOFs / graded (lower grades) | Section103 | Tobacco (T) cards, except T206 B/S/T | 4 | 10-15-2010 11:42 AM |
T206 Drums vs Uzits, Redux | White Borders | Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions | 4 | 04-21-2010 08:13 AM |
*For Sale* SGC graded - T200, T205, T206, T210 and others | Archive | Tobacco (T) cards, except T206 B/S/T | 1 | 10-04-2006 06:25 AM |