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#1
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I think it is a personal preference. There are a wide range of us who collect cards, some are very fortunate to be able to collect a lot of high grade cards while others have a more limited budget.
The one thing I try is to collect cards I like that fall within both my budget and my standards. |
#2
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Everything in my collection is either graded Auth. or a 1. As long as it's not just half the card, it still looks good. Beat up cards show that maybe some kid had it in their collection. Buying a card in a 1 instead of a 4 or 5 could save you hundreds of dollars for another card that you've always wanted. Buy the card not the holder.
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#3
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#4
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" I need to quit thinking about returns and enjoy the hobby i love!!! "
That's the attitude ![]() |
#5
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That doggone Ken Burns Baseball set gets me going and I lose control and want to buy everything!!!
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#6
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+1 |
#7
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I might be one of the least condition sensitive people here. Just doing this for fun, and on a budget. The more I can get for less, the better. Beaters and major flaws are almost a must for me as long as I'm still ok with it's appearance (except modern stuff, then condition matters). I generally follow one rule though.. I have to legitimately believe that if push came to shove, that I could sell it for more than I payed..
Last edited by novakjr; 01-03-2012 at 09:48 AM. |
#8
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I got back into the hobby about four years ago and pretty much collect vintage cards from the 1930's and 40's. I dabble in the T cards and E cards every once in a while though. The things I look for are the card and then the card vs the grade, and if the card is a good deal. I pretty much stick to a PSA or SGC range of 3 through 5, but have lower grades and some higher graded cards as well. One thing I look for are vintage cards with qualifiers. --specifically a miscut card--- centering doesn't bother me as much with Pre World War II cards and it is a cheaper way to pick up a vintage card in otherwise great shape. imho
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#9
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I collect only low grade cards (mostly poor and fair examples.) Granted I'm on a budget, but I prefer cards that have their own history beyond the set/team/player depicted. The wear and tear is a badge of honor, of sorts.
![]() Much like vintagerookies51 said above, focus on the card, not the grade.
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N172 Boston NL and other 19th Century https://www.flickr.com/photos/jcarota/albums Last edited by Jason Carota; 01-02-2012 at 09:00 PM. |
#10
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Collect the card, not the grade. If the card has good eye appeal, who cares what the grade is. However, there is a correlation with grade and appearance. Obviously a SGC 10 or 20 is graded that way for a reason. Just a thought.
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Favorite MLB quote. " I knew we could find a place to hide you". Lee Smith talking about my catching abilities at Cubs Fantasy camp. |
#11
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The quick answer is simply no. But to put more thought into it, it really is a preference thing. I used collect modern cards and since I like graded specimen, I always went for the highest graded cards...not to mention that you can do that with modern compared to vintage and pre-war. But this past year I started to collect T206's and my opinion and preference was forced to change. If I wanted to collect pre-war, I had to settle for lower to mid-grade examples...otherwise there would be no way I could collect them.
Since a year ago, I have learned a lot from this website and after curving my preference, I like cards with eye appeal and no paper loss (although minor back loss is no big deal). I understand being more strict grade-wise on modern cards, but you will most likely have to loosen up with some vintage and pre-war...believe me, you will learn to love them even if they are in a lower grade. Good luck with your quest!
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T206's Graded low-mid 219/520 T201's SGC/PSA 2-5 50/50 T202's SGC/PSA 2-5 10/132 1938 Goudey Graded VG range 37/48 |
#12
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I don't mind low grade material. If it's an OJ then I don't mind the low grade as long as the image is nice. I don't mind back damage on an OJ because it's blank back card.
I've seen cards graded a "2" that are much nicer than the same card graded a "4" or even higher. Maybe there's a small wrinkle on the back. I'd rather buy the card and not the holder/label. Something else to consider is that sometime you just don't have a choice in the matter of picking up something that doesn't come to market too often. For example, Zeenuts of Claxton and Arbuckle. It's not like you can wait around for the next card (in better condition) to show up and become available. Sometimes you have to take what you can get if you really really want a certain card that is difficult to obtain. Yes, I'd prefer to have nothing but Ex-Mt stuff but in reality that stuff just doesn't come up too often and when it does you're paying a premium for it. I'm a bottom feeder so low grade cards with nice eye appeal are fine with me.
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fr3d c0wl3s - always looking for OJs and other 19th century stuff. PM or email me if you have something cool you're looking to find a new home for. |
#13
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I'm on an extremely tight budget, so nothing higher than PSA 1 for me. I like raw cards that are around "Near Poor" !!!
The only way I can afford a high grade card is to cut out the card from the auction catalog & glue it to a piece of thin cardboard. ![]() Last edited by Jewish-collector; 01-02-2012 at 10:49 PM. |
#14
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Alan - Do you then send it in to PRO for grading and slabbing? Regards |
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