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#1
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Sorry, I forgot to mention than most of what I'm selling will be pre-war. Oh, didn't know about not having to join PSA for grading.
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#2
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How does SGC or PSA determine the value of a card for there grading fee's? Do they go by book value, auctions, or vcp?
-Thanks |
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#3
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before sending them in, see if you can get your asking prices on the net54 b/s/t. you may save yourself some grading fees and s/h fees. if they don't sell, then send them in. nothing to lose, no listing fees!
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#4
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Psa or Sgc doesn't determine the value, you do. Just put whatever you feel it's worth. As for the best company for resale, I would use PSA. They're sale prices are certainly higher and you have a better chance to get a little higher grades. I always just join because of the free submissions ( A voucher for 15 Submissions ($225 value) - Seven business day turnaround (All 15 cards must be submitted at the same time. Maximum value per card allowed is $499). T3's, Autographed Tickets, and Autographed Cards* are not allowed on this voucher). If your cards are worth close to the $499 mark it's a good deal.
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#5
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Looking to submit my first card to PSA.
$450 value- $15 for 10 day service and then another $17.50 for return shipping?? How does the declared value work? Are they on the hook for the value you declare? I assume this would keep people from stating a lesser value to get a cheaper rate? I have a card that looks to be a 4 or 5. In that range, sales on VCP show $455. In the standard catalog it is closer to $600. Any suggestions on which value I should declare? Does the value declaration have any factor on what grade may come back?? Thanks! |
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#6
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The value you declare should not have an effect on the grade unless it is wildly off. (For example, submitting a T206 Plank under $500 service level.) I typically put my declared value at what it cost me to purchase the card, but it is up to you. Basically, the declared value is used if the grader damages or loses your card during grading, that is the value that they will compensate you. So, if they lose your card, and you put $100 down but the card is worth $1000, and you say, I want $1000 back, too bad.
About the shipping costs, return shipping is a big part of the costs to any TPG. That's why it's typically better to submit more cards at one time so that the shipping costs can be spread out over more cards to make it more worthwhile. Finally, for any TPG, it's always useful to keep track of the monthly specials they have. What I do every month is to typically take a screenshot of each of the monthly specials for PSA, SGC, and Beckett, so I have an idea of what they often do. Then I wait for that special to come around again. (If you need to submit immediately because you need TPG to authenticate an ebay purchase where you're not 100% sure the card is authentic, then you can't wait.) For example, in Mar-Apr 2011, PSA just had a 10 business day special for cards with declared value under $500 at $10/card. So you could've saved $5/card or 33% off their regular fees (not including shipping). |
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#7
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Gary,
Thanks for the response. The info was very helpful! |
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#8
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SGC for Pre-war
PSA for Post-War SGC has thicker, better quality holder's, and PSA has thinner holder's that store more efficiently than PSA. PSA's holder is good, but SGC's is better. Also, certain cards look better in certain holder's due to the Red or Green label at the top, so while it may be subjective, it can matter in the presentation/marketing of the card. Just some things to consider... Both grading companies are fine - Don't over Einstein it.
__________________
Collector of Nashville & Southern Memorabilia |
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