 |
|
||||||
 |
|
|||||
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
||||||
|
|
|||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2
12-29-2010, 09:57 AM
|
||||
|
||||
Where did you get the cards ?
|
|
#3
12-29-2010, 10:11 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Better color match with the Goodwin/REA PSA8; such a nice rosy-cheeked psycho. Liking it a bit better but still skeptical. Get it authenticated. If it's real you're in Fat City.
Last edited by Kawika; 12-29-2010 at 10:14 AM.
|
|
#5
12-29-2010, 11:08 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
To the best of my knowledge fakes are a more recent phenomenon. The color of your card's background is less problematic on consideration of the PSA8 exemplar. Your scan is too small and blurry to assess anything else such as that funky light vertical line at the right border, paper texture etc. My concern is the general skepticism one develops after participating on this board for seven years and watching one huckster after another tout bogus cards. Am I calling you a huckster? No. Once in a while someone like Skydash comes along with the real deal. You might be another Skydash. I don't know. Anyway the question you posed concerned how best to market the cards and not whether some insomniac dickhead such as myself thought they were real or not. You've gotten some thoughtful answers from some wise folks. I will therefore back away from this discussion with a parting comment that the PSA8 at one time traded for over $200,000 - an aberration to be sure, but a good working example of "fat city". Last edited by Kawika; 12-29-2010 at 11:25 AM.
|
|
#6
12-29-2010, 12:11 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
You do need to get the cards graded and authenticated. If they are real they will sell for far more if they are graded.
As far as which auction house to use, nearly every auction house out there shares the same pool of bidders. Your cards will go for roughly the same amount in any reputable auction, large or small. The size of the auction house will not impact the price realized. The only thing I would stay away from is grouping your cards together. If one house is willing to break your E93's into single or small lots, while another only wants to sell them as one lot, then I would go with the one who is willing to do the extra work for you. But again keep in mind they all have the same people bidding. Nobody has that secret bidder list; it doesn't exist.
|
|
#7
12-29-2010, 12:39 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
One plus for Goodwin that I like is that they promise not to duplicate cards in their auction. Sometimes cards will sell for less if there are multiple versions of the same card (but at different grades) in the same auction.
|
 |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Selling 1958 Yankees & Dodgers Team cards | Misunderestimated | 1950 to 1959 Baseball cards- B/S/T | 0 | 10-18-2009 10:49 PM |
| Selling All of my Pre War Cards | Archive | 1920 to 1949 Baseball cards- B/S/T | 1 | 07-15-2007 06:23 PM |
| Im selling some cards. List ADDED | Archive | Pre-WWII cards (E, D, M, etc..) B/S/T | 2 | 09-18-2006 09:51 AM |
| E cards and other in current auction | Archive | Pre-WWII cards (E, D, M, etc..) B/S/T | 1 | 02-12-2006 07:36 PM |
| Question about selling graded cards | Archive | Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions | 27 | 02-27-2004 05:20 PM |
Hybrid Mode
