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#1
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I've had good luck with making offers even when there isn't a "or Best Offer" option. I recently picked up a '52 Bowman Mantle that way. I offered VCP average for the grade (it was listed about 50% higher than that), and the seller accepted.
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#2
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may last BIN/Offer was already listed at 80% BV (which doesnt happen very often) and I still asked for 25% more off. Im glad to get a nice HOF for a good price. Its worth the asking.
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#3
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I don't think offering fair market value, or very close to it, is ever a bad thing.
As a person who has a few BINs listed I only hate one thing ...and this one thing happens every day. That is, when people think the lowest sales price ever listed on VCP for a card in a given grade is the "market value". I'm frankly sick of people says this. There are too many buyers than expect sellers to sell at the lowest VCP price when some of those sales are ridulously off-base from the norm. Just because one seller here and there happens to list a card at a ridiculously low price because they either don't know the market value, they don't have much invested into a card or they are selling a fake doesn't mean that is the market value of the card. You need to look at the normal final value of a card that has been auctioned-off, and you should also review the picture of the card to make sure it isn't on the low end of the scale for that grade (i.e. bad centering, bad registration, etc.) But what you are proposing as "Best Offers" would be great, IMO. I wish more people were like that. ![]() |
#4
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My assumption is that a seller that lists a card for multiples (2x,3x) of what a card typically sells for is likely rarely offended. He/she is looking for an uniformed buyer. When you make a reasonable offer they know you are not one. If a reasonable offer is half the BIN price so what.
Last edited by HRBAKER; 09-03-2010 at 10:34 AM. |
#5
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So what do you offer/do when it seems like the BIN is 4X what it should be?
If you offer 50% it's still like you are paying twice what you should......I hope that made sense ![]() Clayton |
#6
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You offer what you are willing to pay for it as long as it is reasonable. An unreasonable listing price does not drive up or raise the value of the card.
Last edited by HRBAKER; 09-03-2010 at 10:44 AM. |
#7
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Thanks Jeff- maybe you or someone can help me here- what would be a reasonable offer for a Bob Ganley T206 graded V/G-E/X 4 ?
Just curious-thanks. Clayton Last edited by teetwoohsix; 09-03-2010 at 10:50 AM. Reason: correction |
#8
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Not Jeff, but $70 - $75 would be reasonable.
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#9
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I have a few cards listed at very high prices as compared to their last sales prices simply because I had bought them when the market was higher and I only want to sell them if I get my money back. There aren't a lot of these cards listed and some collector might be willing to pay my price in order to snag the card regardless of the last sales price. I frankly think the last sales price for many cards is worthless and people put too much into VCP. Common T206s are different for sure because they are common cards. |
#10
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Tom, I understand what you are saying. If you can get your $ back fine, if you can't you will sit on it for awhile. I have been told many times when I have made an offer on a card, "I have more than that in it." To me that's irrelevant if you want to sell it to me. Your example also says a "few" cards not a few hundred for several months/years, etc. ![]() Last edited by HRBAKER; 09-03-2010 at 10:52 AM. |
#11
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I hear ya. ![]() Us sellers are just telling you why we can't drop the price. I guess I would rather explain why I can't drop the price rather than just answer "No". I actually like to put an autodecline in at the level at which I won't go below so that I don't have to say anything. ![]() |
#12
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I hear you too. When I swap it kills me to get less than I have in something in value but I have done it. |
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