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#1
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Do what I do and be honest about your intentions. If I buy a large collection I always tell the seller about my plans. I always go through the collection and take out the better cards for upgrades or ones I like or don't have. From there I slowly sell off the rest to be able to afford building the rest of my collection. The closer is ask them if there is any cards that they would want to see in 10 yrs. I have about 20-30 cards I have kept with me because the seller has personal ties and did not want them to be pawned off for money. This is what sold the deal for me. About 3 yrs ago I bought some in Deleware and the guy contacted me back in June to get pics to show his Step-son what he had collected as a kid. Still had the 5 cards. He was estactic that I kept my word.
The book pricing deal is fairly easy to overcome. You have to make money the same way he does and cards "Are only worth what people are willing to pay for them." Maybe a laptop and some VCP will cure the "book value is what I want bug." You would be supprised at what I have bought using a laptop and VCP as a guide. I do hope this helps you in some way. Best of luck and post those pics when you get the deal closed. Last edited by Pup6913; 10-06-2009 at 07:55 AM. |
#2
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I assume you're buying the collection raw. Perhaps you could bring along some graded card examples to help as basis for comparison.
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#3
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Totally agree with full disclosure. One of the best finds I ever made came as a result of one of these situations. A person like you've described recommended me to their friends after I had been square with them, and that turned out to where the real goodies were.
What goes around comes around. Good luck! |
#4
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If you think he may overestimate the condition of his cards I always put in my briefcase some graded cards from 1-10. If you have some, take them out to compare to the ones he has overestimated. Just a stain or so on the back brings them down to 1-2 grade range. Everyone thinks there cards are mint-near mint until I show them a graded 8+, then they realize they have a 3-5 range card.
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#5
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...for the advice. I was thinking this morning that in reality a decent chunk of the cards may end in my personal collection as an upgrade or new addition. And some of them will be traded for inventory that I desire more. In short, I will not be "flipping" these per se.
As per the graded card example, I will keep that in consideration; a good thought there. |
#6
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Mintacular,
If you walk in the house and the beckett price guide is on the table, your chances of closing the deal are slim to none. Make him a fair offer, and if he has already received other offers, you may be able to close the deal. If you are the first person who has made an offer, regardless if the offer is fair or not, chances are he is going to be disappointed and want to shop it around. Just my experience. |
#7
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I can't control what he thinks is "fair"--just need to organize my ducks in a row, make a reasonable offer w/a defense of that $ figure, and explain how Beckett prices "work" if need be. Chances are my offer won't be too much lower than any other (informed) buyer, so if he rejects it now, I could very well get a call at a later date after he receives other "low" offers.
Last edited by mintacular; 10-06-2009 at 11:22 AM. |
#8
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Sounds like you have the right idea. good luck
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