Introduction and question

[raulus]

Originally Posted by meganjeo0

You should check the auction sales list you should be able to get a price there.

If it's 1 of 1, none higher, at least for this back, it seems like that would be a challenge.

Certainly you could look at sales for lower graded examples, and then attempt to estimate a premium for the higher grade.

You could also look at other similarly rare backs to see how they've sold at similar grades. Or you could look at other players from this set with similar levels of popularity in Tolstoi backs to see what they usually command at this grade, although it would be best if they were also PSA 6, 1 of 1, none higher. However, the odds are good that you will find that there's not a ton of recent data to go on, assuming you can even find any analogous examples.

So you might be stuck having to interpolate and guess. Certainly if you put it up for auction, you never know what might happen, particularly given the rarity of this grade for this back for this player. It could go nuts if you get a couple of motivated bidders with deep pockets who have to have it. Or it could end up getting lost in the shuffle and might sell for a lot less than you were hoping. That's the fun of an auction - you never know what a high graded T206 rareback for a commonish player will bring on any given day.

[gonefishin]

I always make my starting bid a price I can live with if it sells. Welcome and good luck.

[NHbaseballcards]

Originally Posted by raulus

If it's 1 of 1, none higher, at least for this back, it seems like that would be a challenge.

Certainly you could look at sales for lower graded examples, and then attempt to estimate a premium for the higher grade.

You could also look at other similarly rare backs to see how they've sold at similar grades. Or you could look at other players from this set with similar levels of popularity in Tolstoi backs to see what they usually command at this grade, although it would be best if they were also PSA 6, 1 of 1, none higher. However, the odds are good that you will find that there's not a ton of recent data to go on, assuming you can even find any analogous examples.

So you might be stuck having to interpolate and guess. Certainly if you put it up for auction, you never know what might happen, particularly given the rarity of this grade for this back for this player. It could go nuts if you get a couple of motivated bidders with deep pockets who have to have it. Or it could end up getting lost in the shuffle and might sell for a lot less than you were hoping. That's the fun of an auction - you never know what a high graded T206 rareback for a commonish player will bring on any given day.

Yes, it’s been difficult. Thanks for your insight though.

[Vintagedeputy]

Not my intention to disparage your card at all, but I can't see how a card with a diamond cut and poor registration can get a 6.

[CardPadre]

Originally Posted by Vintagedeputy

Not my intention to disparage your card at all, but I can't see how a card with a diamond cut and poor registration can get a 6.

I don't mean to disparage your post, but that's not the issue being discussed here.

[Vintagedeputy]

Originally Posted by CardPadre

I don't mean to disparage your post, but that's not the issue being discussed here.

Actually, that is exactly the issue being discussed here. The OP wants opinions on value. Are we to value the card at what a PSA 6 should be valued at and overlook the diamond cut and poor registration or do we value the card based on the card itself and not the grade? Buy the card and not the holder, right?

A PSA 6 is defined as:

A PSA 6 card may have visible surface wear or a printing defect which does not detract from its overall appeal. A very light scratch may be detected only upon close inspection. Corners may have slightly graduated fraying. Picture focus may be slightly out-of-register. Card may show some loss of original gloss, may have minor wax stain on reverse, may exhibit very slight notching on edges and may also show some off-whiteness on borders. Centering must be 80/20 or better on the front and 90/10 or better on the reverse.

We can debate what "slightly" out of register means in comparison to this card, but combined with the odd cut, I personally would not value the card as a PSA 6. Your mileage may vary.

[CardPadre]

Originally Posted by Vintagedeputy

Actually, that is exactly the issue being discussed here. The OP wants opinions on value. Are we to value the card at what a PSA 6 should be valued at and overlook the diamond cut and poor registration or do we value the card based on the card itself and not the grade? Buy the card and not the holder, right?

A PSA 6 is defined as:

A PSA 6 card may have visible surface wear or a printing defect which does not detract from its overall appeal. A very light scratch may be detected only upon close inspection. Corners may have slightly graduated fraying. Picture focus may be slightly out-of-register. Card may show some loss of original gloss, may have minor wax stain on reverse, may exhibit very slight notching on edges and may also show some off-whiteness on borders. Centering must be 80/20 or better on the front and 90/10 or better on the reverse.

We can debate what "slightly" out of register means in comparison to this card, but combined with the odd cut, I personally would not value the card as a PSA 6. Your mileage may vary.

The discussion is about valuing a 6 that has no peers or superiors. It’s not about valuing what quality of 6 it is. This is literally only asking about valuing the holder, not the card.

[Vintagedeputy]

Originally Posted by CardPadre

The discussion is about valuing a 6 that has no peers or superiors. It’s not about valuing what quality of 6 it is. This is literally only asking about valuing the holder, not the card.

I disagree, but sure lets discuss the value of a 6 and not the card itself.

[FrankWakefield]

Jonathan, welcome.

I have some graded cards. I don't like them. I used to break them all out, when I was buying a card that I wanted; and I'd throw the slips away. Then I got to where I'd break out the cards but keep the slips. I have a few cards not broken out.

My personal logic about this has been that I want to be able to hold a card, I don't want a card I'm afraid to touch. But I know I won't live forever. Unless I sell them, then I figure my kids will sell them. Either way, they'll sell for more if slabbed.

All of the preceding is so you'll understand my bias. I read the haggling above, and think they're 'discussing' different issues. So, what's the card worth; and then what is the slabbed card worth to you. A slabbed card may well have a slightly larger set of potential buyers. And will sell for more. NONE of the cards I've bought that are still slabbed were slabbed because I wanted a graded card. I wanted the card. And impatient me didn't want to wait for it.

So how much... I think it'd sell for between $950 and $1100. I feel compelled to mention positives and shortcomings: Great color on the front. The centering is attractive, the whop-sided cut is slightly distracting. The skewed registration is annoying. The back has a tinge to it, looks like the card may have been in a scrapbook for a long time, not one contemporary to the card's issue timeframe, but 25 years later, in a book that would have had pages that retained acidity from the papermaking process, hence the tannish / brownish tinge. Nice corners.

I'm from the 20th century, so I may have conservative dollar values up there, that Stahl might sell for a few hundred more. A buyer of a 4 figure will want that particular card, or that particular back; point being that those factors narrow down you pool of potential buyers.

Again, welcome. If you do sell it, please return to this thread and update it with the sales results. Thanks, Frank W.

[NHbaseballcards]

Originally Posted by FrankWakefield

Jonathan, welcome.

I have some graded cards. I don't like them. I used to break them all out, when I was buying a card that I wanted; and I'd throw the slips away. Then I got to where I'd break out the cards but keep the slips. I have a few cards not broken out.

My personal logic about this has been that I want to be able to hold a card, I don't want a card I'm afraid to touch. But I know I won't live forever. Unless I sell them, then I figure my kids will sell them. Either way, they'll sell for more if slabbed.

All of the preceding is so you'll understand my bias. I read the haggling above, and think they're 'discussing' different issues. So, what's the card worth; and then what is the slabbed card worth to you. A slabbed card may well have a slightly larger set of potential buyers. And will sell for more. NONE of the cards I've bought that are still slabbed were slabbed because I wanted a graded card. I wanted the card. And impatient me didn't want to wait for it.

So how much... I think it'd sell for between $950 and $1100. I feel compelled to mention positives and shortcomings: Great color on the front. The centering is attractive, the whop-sided cut is slightly distracting. The skewed registration is annoying. The back has a tinge to it, looks like the card may have been in a scrapbook for a long time, not one contemporary to the card's issue timeframe, but 25 years later, in a book that would have had pages that retained acidity from the papermaking process, hence the tannish / brownish tinge. Nice corners.

I'm from the 20th century, so I may have conservative dollar values up there, that Stahl might sell for a few hundred more. A buyer of a 4 figure will want that particular card, or that particular back; point being that those factors narrow down you pool of potential buyers.

Again, welcome. If you do sell it, please return to this thread and update it with the sales results. Thanks, Frank W.

Thank you for that information. I’m getting quite the education here.