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#1
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I have a slightly different take on the drying process.
(This is for Topps-era cards, so may not be pertinent to a 1915 CJ.) After I soak something, I'll sandwich it in a folded paper towel, weigh it down a bit on an extremely flat surface and wait a short amount of time. This basically soaks up all of that 'extra' water right from the get-go. Then (with that paper towel now sopping wet) I'll replace it with a dry one and weigh it the f*ck down in a permanent position and leave it for days - without replacing the paper towel again - until it's dry (and flat). I prefer this one and done (even though it's actually a quick two ![]() In my book, the less interaction with a wet card the better. ETA: it obviously works better if the sun shines relentlessly (like out here in CA) or if it's summertime and/or always hot enough.
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#2
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I just soaked a group of about 20 mid-1950s Topps and Bowman with mixed results attempting to remove tape. Whoever taped these cards used awful tape, like masking tape only super thick and strong. The tape came off during the soak, but where the tape lifted off came with it. Cards pretty much ruined, but I guess they look better with the tape gone.
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#3
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Overnight for step 2 usually suffices. Screw down acrylic holders are f*cking great for Step 2
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RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER FATHER. GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH WORTHLESS NON-FUNGIBLES 274/1000 Monster Number |
#4
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![]() Quote:
Overnight for step 2 usually suffices. Screw down acrylic holders are f*cking great for Step 2 after the initial squeeze. ![]()
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RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER FATHER. GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH WORTHLESS NON-FUNGIBLES 274/1000 Monster Number Last edited by frankbmd; 02-19-2025 at 06:47 AM. |
#5
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Ok, here is the big reveal… I have to say, I like it! Of course, the card back scuffing is still present but I think it presents much nicer without that ground in dirt on it.
(First 2 pictures are the “before” obviously) I will be keeping and enjoying the Eddie now that’s been de-soiled. I will probably send him in for an SGC tux to match my other 2 1915 CJs. Ironically, I am prepared to get a lower grade but that’s ok as I like the look much better this way. Thx again all for the advice along the way - and my bonus of handling a raw CJ for the first time out of a slab was kind of cool and educational too. Jeff
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************************************************** *********** Jeff "Belfast1933" - honoring my dad, Belfast Maine and Right Fielder for the mighty East Side Rinky Dinks https://grossvintagebaseball.com/ |
#6
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Did you lose some of the lettering on the back?
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#7
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Yes, it looks like more lettering came off.
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#8
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But I thought soaking doesn't alter a card.
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#9
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It would be interesting if our experts weigh in on why this might have happened?
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Net 54-- the discussion board where people resent discussions. ![]() My avatar is a sketch by my son who is an art school graduate. Some of his sketches and paintings are at https://www.jamesspaethartwork.com/ |
#10
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Yep, lost a few more letters in the process... for me, its an OK trade-off. If I originally had NO words or letters missing, I might be disappointed.
But for me, I already had some word and letter loss PLUS a big dark dirt stain. Now, the dirt is largely gone along with a few more letters. Was an OK risk for me with a net plus in the end for me/my PC. I expect that the grade will take a dip but I'm OK with that. Thanks again, all, for the extensive thoughts and advice/experience. Now, add me to those who have given a CJ a bath.
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************************************************** *********** Jeff "Belfast1933" - honoring my dad, Belfast Maine and Right Fielder for the mighty East Side Rinky Dinks https://grossvintagebaseball.com/ |
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