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#1
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Not quite the same, but I do find that I need something to distract me from the monotony of the treadmill. Between the cardboard and a 75 in big screen, I can usually stay distracted.
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Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel |
#2
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There's price comps for slabbed cards so what is the price structure for raw cards? It's understood, one persons Ex-Mt is someone else's NRMT and one persons VG is another's F-G. Using common sense and assuming a card would grade a 6, what is the price difference between a 52T Mantle raw (in Ex-Mt) shape compared to a graded 6 card? Probably a stupid question because anybody with an Ex-Mt Mantle wouldn't leave money on the table and sell it raw. Ok, how about a 1960 Topps Frank Robinson graded vs slabbed (assume Ex-Mt condition)?
I wouldn't mind buying raw cards but I hate it when dealers say "it would grade a 5" and then quote a price for a PSA5 slabbed card. And I'm guessing I'm not the only person annoyed at dealers like that.
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fr3d c0wl3s - always looking for OJs and other 19th century stuff. PM or email me if you have something cool you're looking to find a new home for. |
#3
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And as far as comps go, what are you even comparing? Yesterday's 7 is today's 5. In addition to today's stricter grading standards, there is no consistency from grader to grader, rendering the comps meaningless.
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Be sure to subscribe to my YouTube Channel, The Stuff Of Greatness. New videos are uploaded every week... https://www.youtube.com/@tsogreatness/videos |
#4
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As a raw collector, this is what aggravates me the most. Many dealers now try to sell their really nice conditioned raw ones for graded comps or more.
That has forced me to buy graded and bust them out. Chris Quote:
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[FONT="Lucida Sans Unicode"]CampyFan39 |
#5
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That government governs best that governs least. |
#6
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I'm still trying to figure out what board members believe is a fair discount rate for ungraded cards (when compared to a comparable slabbed card). If a graded card value comp is $500, then what's a board member willing to pay for a card that appears to be in that condition (but not slabbed)?
What do you say when a dealer says "that's what a graded card would go for"? My response is (nicely), then perhaps you should get it graded and sell it at that price. To which some dealers cop an attitude and others figure it's time to negotiate.
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fr3d c0wl3s - always looking for OJs and other 19th century stuff. PM or email me if you have something cool you're looking to find a new home for. |
#7
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That government governs best that governs least. |
#8
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Eric Perry Currently collecting: T206 (135/524) 1956 Topps Baseball (195/342) "You can observe a lot by just watching." - Yogi Berra |
#9
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If it's not perfectly centered, I probably don't want it. |
#10
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I have no strong preference. I think in theory the concern for fakes is higher once you get into pre-WWII cards given their simplicity, so I understand "authenticating," but at the same time, it's not like I'm buying $100K cards here. No one is forging a torn-to-shreds Orval Overall.
I think people get obsessed with the grade, too, and there's probably a market inefficiency there. Compare a random N172 graded a 1 vs one that's graded a 4, and I feel like fairly often the 1 looks as good or better, but a lot of people are just bidding just based on a grade. Auction houses I think are pretty much exclusively graded cards now, so this probably skews what I've added recently, but I'm not in a rush to grade anything I have that's raw. I will say... I don't understand grading modern cards at all. It's got to be, what, 90%+ 8s or 9s? And magically all the hyped 1/1s get 10s. To me, card grading is mostly card authenticity, and that's just not needed for something like the Skenes debut patch. |
#11
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I miss the days of raw cards being the majority at shows to be honest. I enjoy going through stacks of raw at the old time dealers still to this day bulding out my sets.
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#12
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Grading with modern is really just a mechanism for culling back the insane print runs into 10s and not 10s.
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If it's not perfectly centered, I probably don't want it. |
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