More interest in raw cards in 2024 - Observations

raulus · #1 02-01-2025, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dougscats

Aside from the aesthetics, cost, and many of the points James has made at length, there is an important practical factor that greatly favors collecting raw: viewing and reviewing one�s collection.
.

I probably have a smaller collection than most, but it�s definitely possible to enjoy slabbed cards.

ASF123 · #2 02-01-2025, 12:39 PM

Wow! Is that to keep you motivated on the treadmill?

�Strange�those beautiful Mays cards don�t seem to be getting any closer. Maybe if I walk faster��

raulus · #3 02-01-2025, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ASF123

Wow! Is that to keep you motivated on the treadmill?

�Strange�those beautiful Mays cards don�t seem to be getting any closer. Maybe if I walk faster��

Not quite the same, but I do find that I need something to distract me from the monotony of the treadmill. Between the cardboard and a 75 in big screen, I can usually stay distracted.

Fred · #4 02-01-2025, 02:35 PM

There's price comps for slabbed cards so what is the price structure for raw cards? It's understood, one persons Ex-Mt is someone else's NRMT and one persons VG is another's F-G. Using common sense and assuming a card would grade a 6, what is the price difference between a 52T Mantle raw (in Ex-Mt) shape compared to a graded 6 card? Probably a stupid question because anybody with an Ex-Mt Mantle wouldn't leave money on the table and sell it raw. Ok, how about a 1960 Topps Frank Robinson graded vs slabbed (assume Ex-Mt condition)?

I wouldn't mind buying raw cards but I hate it when dealers say "it would grade a 5" and then quote a price for a PSA5 slabbed card. And I'm guessing I'm not the only person annoyed at dealers like that.

perezfan · #5 02-01-2025, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred

There's price comps for slabbed cards so what is the price structure for raw cards? It's understood, one persons Ex-Mt is someone else's NRMT and one persons VG is another's F-G. Using common sense and assuming a card would grade a 6, what is the price difference between a 52T Mantle raw (in Ex-Mt) shape compared to a graded 6 card? Probably a stupid question because anybody with an Ex-Mt Mantle wouldn't leave money on the table and sell it raw. Ok, how about a 1960 Topps Frank Robinson graded vs slabbed (assume Ex-Mt condition)?

I wouldn't mind buying raw cards but I hate it when dealers say "it would grade a 5" and then quote a price for a PSA5 slabbed card. And I'm guessing I'm not the only person annoyed at dealers like that.

Who cares what the dealer of raw cards says... simply move on if you disagree with his assessment. Just use your own judgment on raw cards. That's the beauty of collecting, and it's not even difficult. You don't need some random overworked minimum wage stranger judging your cards.

And as far as comps go, what are you even comparing? Yesterday's 7 is today's 5. In addition to today's stricter grading standards, there is no consistency from grader to grader, rendering the comps meaningless.

campyfan39 · #6 02-02-2025, 11:50 AM

As a raw collector, this is what aggravates me the most. Many dealers now try to sell their really nice conditioned raw ones for graded comps or more.
That has forced me to buy graded and bust them out.
Chris

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred

There's price comps for slabbed cards so what is the price structure for raw cards? It's understood, one persons Ex-Mt is someone else's NRMT and one persons VG is another's F-G. Using common sense and assuming a card would grade a 6, what is the price difference between a 52T Mantle raw (in Ex-Mt) shape compared to a graded 6 card? Probably a stupid question because anybody with an Ex-Mt Mantle wouldn't leave money on the table and sell it raw. Ok, how about a 1960 Topps Frank Robinson graded vs slabbed (assume Ex-Mt condition)?

I wouldn't mind buying raw cards but I hate it when dealers say "it would grade a 5" and then quote a price for a PSA5 slabbed card. And I'm guessing I'm not the only person annoyed at dealers like that.

Balticfox · #7 02-02-2025, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred

Ok, how about a 1960 Topps Frank Robinson graded vs slabbed (assume Ex-Mt condition)?

I wouldn't mind buying raw cards but I hate it when dealers say "it would grade a 5" and then quote a price for a PSA5 slabbed card. And I'm guessing I'm not the only person annoyed at dealers like that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by campyfan39

As a raw collector, this is what aggravates me the most. Many dealers now try to sell their really nice conditioned raw ones for graded comps or more.

I just sneer at dealers who price their raw cards at those of "equivalent" slabbed cards and spend my money elsewhere. One of the reasons why I've stayed with collecting raw cards is that I'm not willing to pay the premium slabbed cards fetch.

Fred · #8 02-02-2025, 02:03 PM

I'm still trying to figure out what board members believe is a fair discount rate for ungraded cards (when compared to a comparable slabbed card). If a graded card value comp is $500, then what's a board member willing to pay for a card that appears to be in that condition (but not slabbed)?

What do you say when a dealer says "that's what a graded card would go for"?

My response is (nicely), then perhaps you should get it graded and sell it at that price. To which some dealers cop an attitude and others figure it's time to negotiate.

Balticfox · #9 02-03-2025, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred

What do you say when a dealer says "that's what a graded card would go for"?

"Well I'm not willing to pay the premium for graded cards. I buy only lower priced raw cards."

Eric72 · #10 02-03-2025, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred

I'm still trying to figure out what board members believe is a fair discount rate for ungraded cards (when compared to a comparable slabbed card). If a graded card value comp is $500, then what's a board member willing to pay for a card that appears to be in that condition (but not slabbed)?

That depends on the card. As an example, for a '76 George Brett in "Mint" condition, the difference in price between raw and PSA 9 can be significant. For others, like a Fair/Good T206 common, not so much.

What do you say when a dealer says "that's what a graded card would go for"?

I'd say, "perhaps you should get it graded and sell it at..." Oh, wait. Yep, you nailed it.

My response is (nicely), then perhaps you should get it graded and sell it at that price. To which some dealers cop an attitude and others figure it's time to negotiate.

.

Snowman · #11 02-03-2025, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred

I'm still trying to figure out what board members believe is a fair discount rate for ungraded cards (when compared to a comparable slabbed card). If a graded card value comp is $500, then what's a board member willing to pay for a card that appears to be in that condition (but not slabbed)?

What do you say when a dealer says "that's what a graded card would go for"?

My response is (nicely), then perhaps you should get it graded and sell it at that price. To which some dealers cop an attitude and others figure it's time to negotiate.

There is no standard discounted amount that raw cards sell for in comparison to graded cards. They're worth just as much outside the slab as they are inside. The amount a buyer is willing to pay is more a function of how confident they are in their ability to predict what it would grade if submitted. If I'm looking at a card that I am very confident will grade a 6, then I'll pay full comps of a 6 to acquire that card. Especially if it's difficult to find otherwise. But that's based on my assessment of the card, not someone else's. If the seller says it's NM-MT and wants PSA 8 pricing for it, then I'm not a buyer obviously. But it works the other way too. If the seller lists it as VGEX but I'm confident it'll grade as a 5, then again, I'll bid as if it's in a 5 holder already. But I'm extremely confident in my ability to grade cards accurately. If you're not confident in your ability to grade cards then you shouldn't be buying them raw to begin with.

Balticfox · #12 02-01-2025, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raulus

I probably have a smaller collection than most, but it’s definitely possible to enjoy slabbed cards.

Are those Canadian Post Cereal panels above the door? If so, which ones?

raulus · #13 02-01-2025, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Balticfox

Are those Canadian Post Cereal panels above the door? If so, which ones?

The middle one is Canadian. The rest aren�t foreign but were made right here in the good old US of A.

Balticfox · #14 02-01-2025, 04:27 PM

I really like the 1962 ones but I'm guessing that it's the presence of Willie Mays that prompted you to acquire those specific panels.

raulus · #15 02-01-2025, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Balticfox

I really like the 1962 ones but I'm guessing that it's the presence of Willie Mays that prompted you to acquire those specific panels.

Yep. Some of us are player collectors, which I hear are the least terrible variety for the hobby.

Balticfox · #16 02-01-2025, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raulus

Yep. Some of us are player collectors, which I hear are the least terrible variety for the hobby.

Well....

JollyElm · #17 02-01-2025, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raulus

I probably have a smaller collection than most, but it�s definitely possible to enjoy slabbed cards.

All I see happening is this. Simply substitute your Willie Mays collectibles for the weights...

Eric72 · #18 02-01-2025, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raulus

I probably have a smaller collection than most, but it�s definitely possible to enjoy slabbed cards.

That's a very aesthetically pleasing display. What lighting and/or specialized glass do you use to prevent (or at least minimize) fading?

I've contemplated displaying some cards in my home office. I don't want to damage them by doing this, though. The room has one small window and there's a curtain, so direct sunlight wouldn't be an issue. However, the overhead light is on for roughly half the day.

raulus · #19 02-01-2025, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric72

That's a very aesthetically pleasing display. What lighting and/or specialized glass do you use to prevent (or at least minimize) fading?

I've contemplated displaying some cards in my home office. I don't want to damage them by doing this, though. The room has one small window and there's a curtain, so direct sunlight wouldn't be an issue. However, the overhead light is on for roughly half the day.

A few things:

I live in Oregon, just outside of Portland, where the sun doesn’t shine for most of the year.

The way this room and the windows are oriented relative to the direction the sun rises and sets, the direct sunlight can’t actually reach the cases.

This room doesn’t get a lot of use, so the overhead lights are not on much. Maybe 1 hour per day on average. I also use LEDs, which I hear are less damaging that way.

The windows all have shades, and I almost always have them closed.

I added UV blocking film to all of the windows in the room.

I added UV blocking film to the display case windows.

I actually added UV blocking film to the larger slabs that are outside of the cases. I guess I won’t be able to sell them on eBay now, as the AG program would probably reject them, but maybe I can disclose that they have film on them, and they’ll be okay.

I installed foam board coverings on each case to block the light. So every time I go for a workout, I spend 30 seconds to uncover them all, and then cover them back up when I’m done.

I figure between all of these methods, I should probably be pretty okay.

Eric72 · #20 02-02-2025, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raulus

A few things:

I live in Oregon, just outside of Portland, where the sun doesn�t shine for most of the year.

The way this room and the windows are oriented relative to the direction the sun rises and sets, the direct sunlight can�t actually reach the cases.

This room doesn�t get a lot of use, so the overhead lights are not on much. Maybe 1 hour per day on average. I also use LEDs, which I hear are less damaging that way.

The windows all have shades, and I almost always have them closed.

I added UV blocking film to all of the windows in the room.

I added UV blocking film to the display case windows.

I actually added UV blocking film to the larger slabs that are outside of the cases. I guess I won�t be able to sell them on eBay now, as the AG program would probably reject them, but maybe I can disclose that they have film on them, and they�ll be okay.

I installed foam board coverings on each case to block the light. So every time I go for a workout, I spend 30 seconds to uncover them all, and then cover them back up when I�m done.

I figure between all of these methods, I should probably be pretty okay.

Thank you for the detailed breakdown of the steps you�ve taken. It�s good to hear from someone who balances preservation and a visually appealing display.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Best �LOL� cards of 2024	brunswickreeves	Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions	23	05-01-2024 10:53 AM
Cards selling over 1 million dollars in 2024	parkplace33	Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions	65	01-29-2024 06:52 PM
Observations from a yard sale - 80s/90s junk cards	parkplace33	Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions	58	06-24-2021 08:01 AM
Gauging Interest for PSA piggybacking TICKET STUBS - CLOSED DUE TO LACK OF INTEREST	bobbyw8469	Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions	13	06-04-2018 10:11 AM
Observations on 19th Century Trade cards	Archive	Net54baseball Vintage (WWII & Older) Baseball Cards & New Member Introductions	0	12-03-2005 07:27 PM