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#1
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Now if you have something rare and unusual, then absolutely. There is no real market price in most of those situations, and the seller and buyer will get to determine that market price together.
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Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel Last edited by raulus; 09-30-2024 at 08:28 AM. |
#2
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But if you have something unique or extremely difficult to find then you have leverage to negotiate with and you can often give the middle finger to "comps". I have a dead centered 52 Topps Jackie Robinson PSA 4 and people are constantly trying to buy it and telling me that it's "only worth ~$15k" or so. Then they point to these trash copies in the same grade with 80/20 centering, diagonal cuts, print defects, creases, etc. I just laugh and tell them they should go buy those cards then. Good luck finding another dead centered mid grade 52 Topps Jackie. There might be one more out there somewhere. Maybe. If so, you better cross your fingers that it surfaces before the year 2035 because you're not getting mine lol.
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If it's not perfectly centered, I probably don't want it. Last edited by Snowman; 09-30-2024 at 05:57 PM. |
#3
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Let’s say that 5 of the same card, all graded 9’s sold for $10 to $20 last week. I have the same card, but it was a gift from my loving grandfather but now I’ve decided to sell it. While that card’s average sale may be $10 to $20 in 5 previous sales, it may take a higher offer for me to let go of the treasured card. Likewise, a buyer may look at my graded 9 and say to himself “wow, this 9 looks better than the other 5 graded 9’s and has nicer eye appeal, so I’m willing to pony up $35”. Why should my card be compared to 5 others? Shouldn’t this buyer and seller determine value of this card on its own merits and not what someone else accepted for their card yesterday? We hear time and time again from sellers at card shows who put a price on their card and potential buyers come up and start quoting comps to them. If I put a sticker on my card with a price, a potential buyer can look at it to decide if it’s too high or not for him or if he wants to make a counter offer because we are now discussing that exact card. That exact card should not be compared to what anyone else sold their card for previously. |
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#5
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I rarely buy cards to resell. My reselling activities mainly consist of antiques, other collectibles, or just about anything I find that I can make a buck on. Yesterday for example, I bought a coffee mug and a rechargeable drill that are going to be listed for sale soon. I’ll buy a coffee mug, a woman’s coat and a kitchen mixer if I think I can flip it for a profit. I do buy cards, pinback buttons, pennants and other stuff for my sports memorabilia collection and yes, I ignore comps. I don’t care what someone else paid for something yesterday or last week. I look at the item that I’m thinking about buying and decide if the asking price is one that I’m comfortable with. Sometimes I make a counter offer and sometimes I fully accept what the seller is asking for it because I like it that much and don’t disagree with the number they’ve come up with. That could be based on any number of factors and comps could be higher or lower. I don’t worry about the comps, though. I judge the item I’m looking at buying at the moment and the price being asked and make my decision based on that. It’s really that simple. |
#6
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Obviously if I’m the buyer, the fact that it comes out of your pop pop’s collection means nothing to me, and certainly doesn’t entice me to spend more on it.
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Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel Last edited by raulus; 10-01-2024 at 08:02 AM. |
#7
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