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#1
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One aspect of photo collecting I do not understand is how type 1 photos are valued so much more than the original negatives. Shouldn't the 4 x 5 glass negative of the famous Ty Cobb sliding photo, for example, be worth more than a photo made from that negative? The negative is really the holy grail of that particular moment in time. It's the original source of all the other photos. And if you owned the negative, you could make a 16 x 20 or larger photo of it and it would be at least as crystal clear as any type I photo of that moment. So why pay more for the photo over the negative? They're both from whatever date that particular moment occurred. I've heard the argument that you can't frame or display the negative, but why should the paper matter in the value? With the negative, I can produce an original photo as good, or better, than any type I. If you're collecting the image, then the original source of that image should be the most valuable collectible - and that's the negative. |
#2
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The same argument to a degree could be made with rare baseball related 35mm color slides from the late 1940's and 1950's.They are in my opinion undervalued...but deals with the same issues those reasons listed above with negatives. |
#3
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Same with Magic Lantern slides. They positives and are a few inches across, so they are much easier to see than a 35mm but they also have display issues.
I had a big stock of 4 x 5 transparencies (like slides but big) at one point. I think I still have a few left. Another really interesting but hard to display item.
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Read my blog; it will make all your dreams come true. https://adamstevenwarshaw.substack.com/ Or not... Last edited by Exhibitman; 05-15-2024 at 01:38 PM. |
#4
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Visit TCMA Ltd. on Facebook! Last edited by TCMA; 05-15-2024 at 06:52 PM. Reason: typo |
#5
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And here's how I store my glass negs. These archival boxes and paper enclosures can be sourced from www.talasonline.com.
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Visit TCMA Ltd. on Facebook! |
#6
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I don't want to get all weird ass, but you can't recreate a 120 year old photograph. Age gives it a patina and the photo is on paper that doesn't exist today. It would be easier to fake a Dutch Master than fake an a Deadball Conlon.
I have UPI photos printed 40 years after the image was taken that are just...perfect, but they are a different thing altogether. The market decides the value, something that might be explained to me after I am dead (but I don't think so). lumberjack |
#7
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#8
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This one is from the 50's and it's just a scan (and a tiny one to fit file size constraints here), but it comes from a 4 x 5 negative. I could have this printed at a professional photo studio and easily "age" it a bit. Show me a photo of Nolan Ryan with the clarity the scan below has. marlinstuart.jpg Last edited by SAllen2556; 05-16-2024 at 06:44 AM. |
#9
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Clydell "Slick" Castleman (16x20 photos): ![]() "Jersey Joe" Stripp (20x24 canvas print): ![]()
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Visit TCMA Ltd. on Facebook! Last edited by TCMA; 05-16-2024 at 06:54 AM. |
#10
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Looking for: Type 1 photos of baseball HOFers N172 Old Judge Portraits Will buy or trade for the above. Check out my cards at: www.imageevent.com/crb972 |
#11
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For any of my more special or valuable photos I keep them housed in mylar sleeves with museum board backings. These are then placed in 3" tall archival quality drop-front boxes that hold (off the top of my head) 30-40 prints. This is an expensive option but makes for a fantastic long-term solution and the photos present beautifully. The mylar/museum board/drop-front box setup is likely overkill for most hobby-related applications but quality of the materials is second to none. It's how major institutions handle their collections and what you'll see if you visit the National Baseball Hall of Fame for research purposes and ask they pull files for you. In terms of the photos sliding around you'll notice there is a LOT of room inside the sleeve for the photo to "breathe." This is actually by design as you don't want to stuff brittle photos into enclosures that are too tight, and keeping edges of the photos away from corners of any storage solution is preferable. I get my black drop-front boxes from https://www.universityproducts.com and both the black museum board and mylar from www.talasonline.com. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#12
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BTW, most of the photos above are 5x7 resting on 8x10 museum board. Here's a shot right from the HOF's website showing how they house their examples:
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