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#1
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It looks better for sure! I have not ever soaked a card as I am too scared. I have one that I believe would be the perfect candidate but I just cant do it. Its a 53 Mays and its the most I have ever paid for a card, more than 2x as much actually! I paid 1,110 for it a few years ago because I wanted to complete the 53 set (my fave) and that was the only one left. Someone should start a business soaking cards for chickens like me.
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[FONT="Lucida Sans Unicode"]CampyFan39 |
#2
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I wouldn't attempt that one, either. Smart move. Others on here will be better able to guide you if '53s are even safe to soak. This is not my area of expertise.
Mine was a $20 card, so didn't have any qualms about trying. I knew going into it that Parkhurst cards are great candidates for soaking and had done so with Parkies from various years already. |
#3
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Having soaked a whole bunch of stuff over the years, I can offer a small piece of advice:
Overly examine and assess the edges and corners in a search for breaches - anything that will allow the water to seep under the cardboard skin of a card. That type of wet undermining can cause weird stains/dark areas to materialize after it's dried, or even weaken the surface of a card enough in areas to look as if it's been bubbled out.
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All the cool kids love my YouTube Channel:
Elm's Adventures in Cardboard Land ![]() https://www.youtube.com/@TheJollyElm Looking to trade? Here's my bucket: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152396...57685904801706 “I was such a dangerous hitter I even got intentional walks during batting practice.” Casey Stengel Spelling "Yastrzemski" correctly without needing to look it up since the 1980s. Overpaying yesterday is simply underpaying tomorrow. ![]() |
#4
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![]() Quote:
This set is the most challenging set to clean from the 1950s, but if you know what you're doing, you can get them cleaned safely.
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If it's not perfectly centered, I probably don't want it. |
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