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#1
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I leave a few pre-war cards in slabs since they are not part of sets and I don't want any more damage/wear than they already may have. For my sets ('57->'80) I always popped them and put them in binders. Always.
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"When the seagulls follow the trawler, it's because they think sardines will be thrown into the sea. Thank you very much." -Eric Cantona |
#2
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Can PSA tell now if more recently graded but cracked out cards have been graded before?
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Net 54-- the discussion board where people resent discussions. ![]() My avatar is a sketch by my son who is an art school graduate. Some of his sketches and paintings are at https://www.jamesspaethartwork.com/ |
#3
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At the same time, given their demonstrated capabilities when it comes to actually delivering their core service, it’s hard to imagine that they’ve figured out how to really discover if they’ve seen a card previously.
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Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel |
#4
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#5
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What raulus said... +1 to that.
I doubt they'd figure it out if I sent a liberated card back in to be entombed again, and with the card I sent a "before" picture showing the card in the slab, along with the slab bits and the grade slip. I have wondered if they do or one day will put a uv number on each card they grade for future reference... but that would be damaging / altering the card, wouldn't it?? Another worry I have is when a graded T card's slip misidentifies the back. Did they really make that obvious mistake, or might there be two T cards stacked together there... and if it's the latter, is the back of the top card damaged and the front of the bottom card damaged. Methinks too many people put way too much faith in grading companies. |
#6
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Net 54-- the discussion board where people resent discussions. ![]() My avatar is a sketch by my son who is an art school graduate. Some of his sketches and paintings are at https://www.jamesspaethartwork.com/ Last edited by Peter_Spaeth; 11-30-2023 at 10:41 PM. |
#7
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I'm having an existential problem. My entire collection is raw, but I finally finished my 1952 low number set with a PSA 1 Mays.
Do I crack a $2,600 card to make it raw and get it right with my binders? Or do I keep it sealed? |
#8
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Crack it! That's a good thing about ones, you're never gonna make it less than a one.
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#9
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I cracked mine for the same reason as you and never regretted it. I cracked a Jackie and Campy 52 Topps as well. Crack away!
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Completed deals with: mybuddyinc, The Nasty Nati, Cory, Moose Dog, iwantitiwinit, OhioCardCollector, Thromdog, t206kid, dacubfan, obcmac, Harliduck, gorditadogg, oldjudge, npa589, Luke, bigfish, wazoo, TedZ, mrreality68, Lobo Aullando, 53toppscollector, volplaya8, Kris19, Baseball*Collectables, cammb |
#10
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JMHO
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“Man proposes and God disposes.” U.S. Grant, July 1, 1885 Completed: 1969 - 2000 Topps Baseball Sets and Traded Sets. Senators and Frank Howard fan. I collect Topps baseball variations -- I can quit anytime I want to.....I DON'T WANT TO. |
#11
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No, they cannot. I crack and resubmit cards every month. I almost never get the same grades. Even cards with very recent certs.
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If it's not perfectly centered, I probably don't want it. |
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