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#1
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![]() Quote:
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If it's not perfectly centered, I probably don't want it. |
#2
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As someone who wants to buy raw cards only it is frustrating to look at the 50's B/S/T and see 90% easily are graded.
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[FONT="Lucida Sans Unicode"]CampyFan39 Last edited by campyfan39; 12-14-2023 at 07:50 PM. |
#3
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Don't see any need to overly complicate things. Many times sellers list a bunch of cards where some are graded and some are not from the same sets. Would be pointless and pain to have to split so many listings between multiple categories for people searching for the same cards.
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Er1ck.L. ---D381 seeker http://www.flickr.com/photos/30236659@N04/sets/ |
#4
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Seems like going to the grocery and demanding that my cheese is not in a package, then leaving for home if it is.
A card is a card, Don’t like it…just open it up.
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- Justin D. Player collecting - Lance Parrish, Jim Davenport, John Norlander. Successful B/S/T with - Highstep74, Northviewcats, pencil1974, T2069bk, tjenkins, wilkiebaby11, baez578, Bocabirdman, maddux31, Leon, Just-Collect, bigfish, quinnsryche...and a whole bunch more, I stopped keeping track, lol. |
#5
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Respectfully thats a bad analogy and kinda snarky. I haven't "demanded" anything and certainly haven't said I would leave the forum.
Those of us who prefer ungraded cards would rather not pay the premium price for some random persons subjective opinion of what number should be assigned to the card. I only buy something graded when I feel the price is in line with what I would pay for it ungraded. Then I crack it out. Thanks, Chris
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[FONT="Lucida Sans Unicode"]CampyFan39 |
#6
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In honesty in my experience it is more cost friendly to buy lower or mid graded cards than raw. The majority of raw cards I see sell for more than a similar graded counterpart due to gamblers thinking they are getter a higher grade card cheaper. This is why so many threads over the years have been complaining about case crackers selling good looking 5-6 cards, or trimmed out of the case because the buyers think they are getting an 8-9. In most cases I can buy a graded 3-4 for less than an ungraded one. The number on non rare cards brings the price down. This experience is why I have a hard time understanding the original premise of the thread. My personal experience has proven at auction (not BIN) I will get a much better price when getting slabbed on low grade.
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- Justin D. Player collecting - Lance Parrish, Jim Davenport, John Norlander. Successful B/S/T with - Highstep74, Northviewcats, pencil1974, T2069bk, tjenkins, wilkiebaby11, baez578, Bocabirdman, maddux31, Leon, Just-Collect, bigfish, quinnsryche...and a whole bunch more, I stopped keeping track, lol. |
#7
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I understand your point now. The gamblers on nice raw cards do make a difference. I had refreshed the thread that had died so thats why I took it as a response to me. My bad.
Happy collecting! Quote:
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[FONT="Lucida Sans Unicode"]CampyFan39 |
#8
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What are you looking for? I have boxes and boxes of 1950's raw cards, HOFers and commons.
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#9
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A raw card section would be great. Doesn't need to be broken down into sub-categories, would probably need to be all sports, non-sports and all years (up to whatever the "vintage" cut off year is deemed to be). These cards could also continue to be posted in the general BST section that applies, but just a nice place to browse an only raw selection for people who really enjoy that. And to anyone not liking the idea, "if you don't like it, don't look at it"....easy.
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. || || \/ If you want a deal, you might not get a card. If you want a card, you might not get a deal. |
#10
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The majority of the items in the $1 auction section do not come with extra packaging. I am sure there is at least one 50s HOFer listed now.
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