If you were to start a vintage collection ...

[jsfriedm]

I think if you're smart with your buying, you might be able to shoot a bit higher than some people are suggesting. For example, if you were willing to go for a PSA 4s, I think you could get both a 1956 Topps Mays and a 1957 Topps Ted Williams. If you wanted to put it all into one card, you might be able to get a PSA 5 1956 Mays or Aaron, maybe a PSA 5 1955 Ted Williams (one of my favorite cards).

[wdwfan]

I've never dealt with graded and have ZERO graded cards. Contemplating maybe buying my first one or 2. Was looking at 1 that was a PSA 5, and there's comps from $80 all the way to $120. So frustrating. A 5 is a 5. So they should run about the same price as one another (like modern cards that are the same). Hopefully finding comps aren't that hard for all PSA cards if I decide to go that route.

Originally Posted by jsfriedm

I think if you're smart with your buying, you might be able to shoot a bit higher than some people are suggesting. For example, if you were willing to go for a PSA 4s, I think you could get both a 1956 Topps Mays and a 1957 Topps Ted Williams. If you wanted to put it all into one card, you might be able to get a PSA 5 1956 Mays or Aaron, maybe a PSA 5 1955 Ted Williams (one of my favorite cards).

[JollyElm]

Comps really mean nothing, unfortunately. Whatever the lowest priced card on eBay (or other venues) is for the condition or number grade you're specifically looking for becomes the de facto market price of said card if you want to buy it right now.*

It sucks, but it's the reality for all of us.



*Some exceptions do apply, of course.

[jchcollins]

Originally Posted by wdwfan

A 5 is a 5. So they should run about the same price as one another (like modern cards that are the same).

Not necessarily true for vintage. Cards with the same technical grade can have wide variation in eye appeal. Using the example of a PSA 5, a perfectly centered card with corner touches and minor surface problems could get a 5 and present fantastically, whereas a card that’s otherwise NM range could be centered 80/20 and be lowered to “only” a 5 based just on the centering. Depending on individual collector preferences, the desirability gap between those two cards in the same grade could vary widely.

If you want to start a vintage collection with mainstream Topps issues of some of those marquee players, my advice would be to just pick nice looking examples from your favorite set designs. They will vary in price depending on your condition preferences. My favorite postwar sets for Topps are 1956, 1963, 1965, 1967, and 1972 - among others. Good luck!


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[Chris-Counts]

I buy the best Mays card I could find, preferably an early one. As far as I'm concerned, he's the most undervalued out of the group of names you mentioned. I paid far less than $500 for this one last week ...

[ALR-bishop]

Nice card Chris