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#1
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You have reached a point where you NEED a black light. You can find several options on Amazon, and have it in hand in 2 or 3 days. They are inexpensive.
If you send the cards to an auction house, you'll always wonder about the green Cobb, the Johnson portrait, and a few others. If any of them fluoresce when illuminated with a black light, then you will see that yourself, rather than trust others. A black light will cost you between about $8 and $28... and the results aren't iffy... You can shine uv light on one of those sheets in a dark room (doesn't have to be total darkness), the real cards will look dull, the reprints will blaze with purple light. Get a black light. Green Cobb isn't right. It'll either fluoresce, bright purple, or if it doesn't then it's the result of skinning real cards and putting pieces together. To me, from the pics, at least the front will fluoresce, and probably the back, too. |
#2
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Thanks
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#3
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I see multiple fakes in there. I don't think you necessarily need a black light. You need to study the cards and know what you are buying. I've held thousands and never used a blacklight.
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#4
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But he hasn't, and he does need a black light because of that lack of experience.
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#5
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Bingo. This is important on several levels, such as: spotting fakes; detecting alterations; handling the cards without causing damage; knowing how much to offer.
__________________
Eric Perry Currently collecting: T206 (135/524) 1956 Topps Baseball (195/342) "You can observe a lot by just watching." - Yogi Berra |
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