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#1
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Not saying this is the case with your seller, but many times a scam artist will include a couple of authentic, lower valued, cards in the mix to throw you off on the authentication process. Look for all the obvious clues, coloring, format, etc.
If all seems ok, take a bright light and shine it through the back of the card for transparency - no light should come through in the 50s and earlier cards. Then take a loop, or magnifying device that can magnify up to 100x. Use the loop, or device, and check the print dots on the card. Counterfeit operations, in most cases, cannot duplicate the printing methods of the 40s - 50s. Go on-line and read about modern print dots as compared to print dots in the 50s and earlier. If it passes all these steps, and they probably won't, you can be about 50-65% sure they are real. Hope this helps. P.S. I always walk away from a deal if I find any counterfeits - one bad apple does spoil the bunch for me - unless it is someone that I've known a long time. |
#2
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I'll definitely get a loupe and a light and will start practicing, thanks for the direction. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk |
#3
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If there are counterfeits mixed in, the seller either (a) doesn't know what they're doing or (b) knows exactly what they're doing. Either scenario is generally bad for a buyer.
__________________
Eric Perry Currently collecting: T206 (135/524) 1956 Topps Baseball (195/342) "You can observe a lot by just watching." - Yogi Berra |
#4
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Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk |
#5
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A fake card is fake, regardless of one's comfort level. If someone is trying to sell a fake, and I've identified the card as fake, I won't deal with them. Period.
__________________
Eric Perry Currently collecting: T206 (135/524) 1956 Topps Baseball (195/342) "You can observe a lot by just watching." - Yogi Berra |
#6
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I get what you're saying, as others here have mentioned. You've learned from experience to draw that hard line when counterfeits appear. Perhaps I'm being naive in thinking I can navigate this whole thing and all you guys are just shaking your heads with the knowledge I'm going to come back with a sob story at some point. Your collective experiences are pointing to me running quickly away from this as far and fast as I can. I get it. But I'll never learn if I don't take risks, and me passing on the cards in question if it comes down to it and acquiring the rest of the collection at good value seems like a good, measured risk to me. Will I find more fakes in the piece of the collection I buy? Likely. But if I account for this likelihood in the deal itself I shouldn't get hurt too bad in the grand scheme of things. At least this is what I'm telling my naive, inexperienced self! Regardless, I appreciate everyone's efforts in attempting to guide me. I am listening and internalizing. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk |
#7
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One of my best purchases at a card show in Pensacola was a signed 1933 Goudey that the seller didn't even realize was autographed until I pointed it out. He also had some counterfeit T206 cards that were cut out of the Dover reprint guide. I told him those were counterfeit, and he apologized for his ignorance and destroyed the fakes in front of me. I then bought the Goudey. His other stuff was all correct, he just didn't think someone would have fake T206s in such poor shape (trimmed/creased) in a collection he bought.
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-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
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