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#1
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I don't think I would have this card if not for the back damage. My eyes aren't great so when I look at the front I'm happy.
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#2
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Depends.
For PSA registry sets (I only have two - T206 and T3), I admit that the number on the flip is often most important; anyone on the registry who tells you otherwise is lying. Its stupid and it may result in a lesser card for more money, but that registry is a powerful bitch and can make one think less rationally. For most everything else, its all about the front. The exception to the aforementioned is when I am buying the card for the back. Sometimes, the rareness of the front/back is such that it doesn't matter how ugly the back (or front) is (e.g., 1916 Tango Eggs Cobb). But if I am trying to get a T206 Uzit example, the way the back looks is more important than the front, because its the back I am after. |
#3
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Being more opportunistic and on a much lower budget, I tend to worry less about condition, and more about if I need the card or if it's a good deal for that example.
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#4
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It depends for me. My focus being on mostly T206's the front is always the main area I look at...sometimes the back, especially if it's a rarer back...a damaged Sovereign or Old Mill will get more of my attention than a Piedmont 150 or Sweet Cap.
I bought this one b/c of the front and paid a reasonable amount due to the back damage. I put very little emphasis on the slab, when buying...but I prefer SGC to PSA just from the asthetics. Bill
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-------------------------------------------------------------- My Cards - https://www.flickr.com/photos/192293172@N05/albums |
#5
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For pre-war, mainly the front of the card with decent centering. I do not care as much about stains particularly on the reverse. Of tertiary importance, but still a consideration, is the grading company. I have a preference for some companies over others with pre-war
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#6
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I don't mind a little paper loss (or glue):
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#7
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In vintage as long as it has no paper loss or major creasing in the facial area I am good with it.
I like cards to have good registration or really bad. Hate cards with really small print offsets(blurry). The most meaningless thing to me is centering. If it is so far off center it shows part of another card I like those even better. What I hate the most is PSA slabs. To me personally it is beyond silly to pay hundreds or thousands of dollars for cards I can buy not is a PSA slab for pennies on the dollar. |
#8
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![]() Quote:
https://youtu.be/1Za8BtLgKv8
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Trying to wrap up my master mays set, with just a few left: 1968 American Oil left side 1971 Bazooka numbered complete panel |
#9
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Buy the card, front being more important but back also important if it is a text based back with a write up or stats I want to read. Snap the slab from the inconsistent and corrupt firm slabbing it, throw it and the slip in the trash. Use eyes to determine condition of said card. Enjoy the card. Repeat.
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#10
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Great question! I buy the front and the back, except for blank back cards. And I never buy the slab...give me a nice eye appeal 1 over a poorly centered 5 every day of the week.
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#11
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My priority:
1) Front of the card (by a mile) 2) The slab (if it's slabbed, who graded it and what was the grade) 3) Card back I will add that I buy SGC slabs 90% of the time. But if its a card produced after 1950 and its high dollar (for me over 5K) I prefer PSA. I do buy Beckett, CSG, and even KSA (for Hockey) when I just want a card that's encapsulated.
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Thanks for your thoughts, Joe. Love the late 1800’s Boston Beaneaters and the early Boston Red Sox (1903-1918)! Also collecting any and all basketball memorabilia. Last edited by Dead-Ball-Hitter; 11-16-2022 at 12:35 PM. |
#12
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Depends on the card for me. Paper loss on the back of a T206 means less to me than paper loss on the back of a 1933 Goudey, because I collect baseball cards, not tobacco ads.
Couldn't care less what tobacco ad is on the back (blasphemy, I know), but if I can't read stats, that bothers me some. |
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