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#1
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I sold all of my unopened boxes this last year....mostly baseball 1980-2020...and got stupid money for them all. I wouldn't change a thing. Even sold a bowman 2000 football for like $4K+...why? people want graded cards...or investmenst? Makes very little sense to me. Take 1980 Topps...really only the Henderson is of any value in that set and you can easily get an ungraded one that looks like an "8" or so...for BV...and the odds of getting one in a wax box are what???...80%ish...so why do the boxes go for $3500-5000?.....buy 20 NrMy sets for that
Same with the 82 set.... maybe with vingtage the graded return on stuff makes more sense...but 80 and newer ....can't reconcile it... Or even worse.....$180 for a pack....not to rag on thers...but complete waste of money IMO Last edited by isiahfan; 09-10-2022 at 08:57 PM. |
#2
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You're right. I see buying newer boxes for chance at parallels. But, buying the older stuff.....BUY THE CARD YOU WANT AND SKIP THE BOX.
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Josh Fogg SUPERCOLLECTOR --- Always WTTF Bryce Harper My Site: www.jasondeanmartin.weebly.com My Blog: www.beansballcardblog.com |
#3
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the one i'd do over is buying a 1986 OPC hockey unopened box to try and treasure hunt for a patrick roy rookie. while it was fun, it was very costly. did end up selling off half the packs along with the actual box and some freebies i got. also graded a few cards and did well on them. but still lost a few hundred bucks. definitely a good lesson. |
#4
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A few observations and opinions:
Unless the cards are individually sleeved, many early UV coated products will "brick" (stick together) over time. This can ruin quite a few 90s releases, whether still in packs or stored loose in boxes. This (in my opinion) makes many early/mid 90s sealed products worthless. Imagine opening a pack and having the cards bonded together. I've been there...it's horrible...I can still hear the sound cards make when you peel them apart. The recent BBCE episodes have weakened collector trust. Whether it's minor or major is a matter of opinion; however, I believe it killed their reputation. When GI Joe packs came out of a certified Pokemon case, it didn't look good. BBCE seemed to weather the storm, though. Their biggest mistake seemed to be stepping outside their areas of supposed expertise. Then, just when the Pokemon story seemed to fade, there was the 1986 Fleer Basketball box from the National. In the wake of that, BBCE doesn't seem to hold the same gravitas they once did. Additionally, they don't financially guarantee to make you whole if they've "authenticated" a tampered box. Speaking of GI Joe cards appearing in cases where they don't belong, there are numerous instances in which people are defrauded by tampered product. I'm certain there are lots of people who approach sealed product sales with integrity and class. However, there are also plenty of shady characters looking to part people with their hard-earned money. Unless you really know what you're doing, getting into collecting sealed product could very well include a steep and expensive learning curve. So, you could pull a brick (literally) from your box, BBCE certification doesn't seem as safe as it used to, they don't guarantee their work, and random scammers are out there. If you're going into this, be very careful.
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Eric Perry Currently collecting: T206 (135/524) 1956 Topps Baseball (195/342) "You can observe a lot by just watching." - Yogi Berra Last edited by Eric72; 09-11-2022 at 08:50 PM. |
#5
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Thanks for all the "takes" and insight. Last week I purchased a lot of inventory from a small shop that closed in 1991 and there is quite a bit of unopened boxes from 90-91 that I'm deciding what to do with. I overpaid I'm sure, so I might have to hold onto it for a couple of years to recoup my money - or not. I'll see I guess. At least there was some basketball, and unopened basketball from that period seems to sell for a little more than baseball from that period. I normally only purchase vintage, but thought I would take a chance.
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#6
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I cant figure out why, aside from the reason I own them.
I've bought many 2001 topps heritage wax boxes at auction over the past decade. I dont think they have moved more than a few bucks since they came out! I feel they have a lot going for them, but the market isnt rational
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"Trolling Ebay right now" © Always looking for signed 1952 topps as well as variations and errors |
#7
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I don't know how other people feel but I'd probably unload that basketball immediately. The market seems to be shrinking much more than other sports. Jordan / Kobe / LeBron all down.
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#8
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I don’t collect unopened boxes as a focus, but they do play a part in my Ripken collection. Here are a few.
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Collector of all things Ripken, Yankees, 1958. Successful transactions with: 300dw123, autograf, bn2cardz, buymycards, CobbvLajoie1910, Daves_resale_shop, frankbmd, GoCubsGo32, GoldenAge50s, GrayGhost, Head928, Jayworld, jdl860, jgmp123, kamikidEFFL, larrie804, Leerob538, lharri3600, Lordstan, megalimey, Orioles1954, quinnsryche, Redleg25, rjackson44, Rob D., SAllen2556, scmavl, slantycouch, slipk1068, Smanzari, TCMA, thetruthisouthere, Wolfgang427, yanks12025, ZackS |
#9
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#10
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FWIW Never peel them apart. I am a structural engineer, and as bizarre as it may seem I have applied my professional knowledge and experience to separate stuck cards. This is a little on the technical side but should get the point across. When you separate the card by "peeling" them apart, the surface stuck together are put into tension, and many times that tensile connection between the surfaces is stronger than that of the surface to the underlying card and you end up tearing some of the surface of the card off. The shear strength of the adhesion of the surfaces is not as strong though. If you remove the stuck cards from the pack and rather than peel them you flex the cards as a whole. Grab the stuck pack of cards at each end and flex them together one way and then the other. You will find that the second flex the pack of cards seems less stiff. Then do the same at a 90 degree orientation (grabbing them along the long edge), and then proceed to also flex them grabbing at opposite corners. At this point the cards will normally separate. The flexing of the cards creates shear planes between the surfaces of the cards due the slight differences in radii of the bend from card to card. I have almost always had great results with this method.
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Collector of all things Ripken, Yankees, 1958. Successful transactions with: 300dw123, autograf, bn2cardz, buymycards, CobbvLajoie1910, Daves_resale_shop, frankbmd, GoCubsGo32, GoldenAge50s, GrayGhost, Head928, Jayworld, jdl860, jgmp123, kamikidEFFL, larrie804, Leerob538, lharri3600, Lordstan, megalimey, Orioles1954, quinnsryche, Redleg25, rjackson44, Rob D., SAllen2556, scmavl, slantycouch, slipk1068, Smanzari, TCMA, thetruthisouthere, Wolfgang427, yanks12025, ZackS |
#11
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I always do this, very carefully, but a LOT of times I still get some damage (looks like snow) on one edge or another. Do you have any suggestions to 'pregame'? I have heard suggestions to freeze them, use a hair dryer, sit them in a steamy bathroom, etc, etc. I guess it may be product dependent, but I wonder if you have any thoughts? Thanks, Jim
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"If you ever discover the sneakers for far more shoes in your everyday individual, and also have a wool, will not disregard the going connected with sneakers by Isabel Marant a person." =AcellaGet |
#12
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Occasionally I have issues, but not a LOT.
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Collector of all things Ripken, Yankees, 1958. Successful transactions with: 300dw123, autograf, bn2cardz, buymycards, CobbvLajoie1910, Daves_resale_shop, frankbmd, GoCubsGo32, GoldenAge50s, GrayGhost, Head928, Jayworld, jdl860, jgmp123, kamikidEFFL, larrie804, Leerob538, lharri3600, Lordstan, megalimey, Orioles1954, quinnsryche, Redleg25, rjackson44, Rob D., SAllen2556, scmavl, slantycouch, slipk1068, Smanzari, TCMA, thetruthisouthere, Wolfgang427, yanks12025, ZackS |
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