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#1
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Can you elaborate on why you need to be more cautious about storage and how you view these items? I ask because I have the same thoughts as you but what to see if I’m right or wrong about my gut feeling as I keep going back and forth on this issue. Please explain! Thanks
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#2
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No, it's not $100 and no you don't have to wait a year anymore. PSA has opened levels down to $18 per card. Those might take a few months, but the $30-50 card levels get back to you in 3-10 weeks, in my recent experience. I'm no raving PSA fanboy, but I don't like it when folks who don't submit cards quote inaccurate information.
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#3
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Meow Meow!
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#4
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I collect Kellogg's issues as well. The cards develop cracks over time and it seems to be dependent upon how they are stored - mainly moisture and temperature. Having them graded won't solve this issue but I ended up buying a number of refurbished ammo cases with new rubber gaskets. A 7.62mm ammo case holds graded cards perfectly. I added a couple of silica gel packs and this seems to have solved the problem of variation in humidity. The rubber gasket on the cases seems to help keep the humidity constant. I am going to start keeping all of my graded cards in refurbished ammo cases. If you go this route - make sure to get refurbished cases with new gaskets. Some sellers don't replace the gasket. The larger ammo cases seem to be more suited to holding raw cards in top loaders snugly. They even have large size ammo cases (actually night vision goggle cases) which fit large cards like T3 Turkey Reds or 1951 Wheaties Premiums. Last edited by Zach Wheat; 07-29-2022 at 08:06 AM. |
#5
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That’s awesome! I never thought about ammo cans but that is a very cool idea. I’ll check into that option as well. For most of my vintage cards I think the psa graded case would offer so much more better protection long term. To my personally, the only down fall I see with graded cards is all the space they would take up! I could get more cards store in albums in a much smaller space. So storage wise. Albums see better than those bulky slabs!
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#6
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I drop stuff, so a slab is a good idea for anything condition sensitive. I am pretty much agnostic on grading but it is definitely a thrill to get a high grade from a TPG on something you send it. Talk about freakish spontaneous wealth creation. I got the grade on this one last week and was pretty pumped about how it graded out:
![]() it is a 1/1 card with very sensitive foil finishing, so a 10 is pretty, pretty good. Damn thing looked perfect to me but what do I know, right?
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Read my blog; it will make all your dreams come true. https://adamstevenwarshaw.substack.com/ Or not... Last edited by Exhibitman; 07-30-2022 at 06:45 PM. |
#7
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#8
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Thanks. Check out this one from the same batch:
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__________________
Read my blog; it will make all your dreams come true. https://adamstevenwarshaw.substack.com/ Or not... |
#9
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Graded vintage cards will appeal to people for the foreseeable future. It provides a double-check from someone (other than the seller) that the card is authentic and unaltered...or at least, that's the idea.
With all the alterations (and occasional fakes) that slip past third party graders, it is by no means a perfect system. Add to that the instances in which fake or compromised TPG holders enter the marketplace, and we're probably no better off than we were back in the 80s. The best route to take is the same as it has always been. Learn the set(s) you collect. Study commons to learn the paper stock, print techniques, and other details which allow you to identify genuine, unaltered cards. Buy a loupe, blacklight, and ruler. Use these to help pick up on fine details which may elude the unaided eye. In the end, you just may find yourself enjoying the cards quite a bit more than all this damn plastic.
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Eric Perry Currently collecting: T206 (135/524) 1956 Topps Baseball (195/342) "You can observe a lot by just watching." - Yogi Berra |
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