Best way for detached program cover

[GrayGhost]

Best? Clear tape, staples? Good program but not $$$ for paper restorer. Thanks!!

[Smanzari]

Originally Posted by GrayGhost

Best? Clear tape, staples? Good program but not $$$ for paper restorer. Thanks!!

Un-staple, lay cover flat, clear tape on the inside at the staple (archival if you're feeling froggy), restaple (either carefully with the old ones or use new ones)

[Michael B]

Whether it is valuable or not, it may have good value someday. Why destroy it using consumer tape when true archival tape is relatively inexpensive.

https://www.universityproducts.com/d...pair-tape.html


I purchased a 1" x 98' roll over 20 years ago and I still have it. You can get the smallest roll which is still 12 feet for $6.70 and with shipping it would probably be less than $15. If you use it on several items you've made your investment back.

This is essentially tissue paper with adhesive on one side. The challenging part is separating it from the backing paper. I use several methods, but it is a pain then you cut a small strip, separate it from the backing and it curls and sticks to itself. You then have to cut another strip.

One thing to consider when repairing something like this is to do it on the INSIDE of the cover, not the outside. After you put it in place you need to burnish it so that it fully flattens against the paper. This will also help push the separated edges together. I have a small plastic burnishing tool. It looks a bit like a tongue depressor with square ends and and partly rounded faces so it can be pushed along the tape and smooth it down. It is also great for taking wrinkles out of paper. If you don't want to purchase one of those a tablespoon works well.

If you are repairing a tear you need to cut a piece that is longer than the tear. This will prevent further tearing and reinforces the paper. If it is the full spine of the program you make it longer. After burnishing it you flip it over and use a razor blade to cut of the excess. You can protect the program from being damaged by putting a ruler or straight edge along the edge of the program while cutting.

This was just part of the discussion on the Babe Ruth signature in the autograph section. People cavalierly offer suggestions without considering the damage that can be caused.

[ooo-ribay]

^^^^^ That a great rundown, Michael!

[guy3050]

Originally Posted by Michael B

Whether it is valuable or not, it may have good value someday. Why destroy it using consumer tape when true archival tape is relatively inexpensive.

https://www.universityproducts.com/d...pair-tape.html


I purchased a 1" x 98' roll over 20 years ago and I still have it. You can get the smallest roll which is still 12 feet for $6.70 and with shipping it would probably be less than $15. If you use it on several items you've made you investment back.

This is essentially tissue paper with adhesive on one side. The challenging part is separating it from the backing paper. I use several methods, but it is a pain then you cut a small strip, separate it from the backing and it curls and sticks to itself. You then have to cut another strip.

One thing to consider when repairing something like this is to do it on the INSIDE of the cover, not the outside. After you put it in place you need to burnish it so that it fully flattens against the paper. This will also help push the separated edges together. I have a small plastic burnishing took. It looks a bit like a tongue depressor with square ends and and partly rounded faces so it can be pushed along the tape and smooth it down. It is also great for taking wrinkles out of paper. If you don't want to purchase one of those a tablespoon works well.

If you are repairing a tear you need to cut a piece that is longer than the tear. This will prevent further tearing and reinforces the paper. If it is the full spine of the program you make it longer. After burnishing it you flip it over and use a razor blade to cut of the excess. You can protect the program from being damaged by putting a ruler or straight edge along the edge of the program while cutting.

This was just part of the discussion on the Babe Ruth signature in the autograph section. People cavalierly offer suggestions without considering the damage that can be caused.

Would this method be good for detached tickets

[mrreality68]

Originally Posted by ooo-ribay

^^^^^ That a great rundown, Michael!

+1 agreed

Great details

[David Atkatz]

Don't listen to anyone who tells you to use "clear tape" on any historical artifact.
You are the caretaker of these items. Either do it right, or don't do it at all.

[Michael B]

Thank you all for the kind words. Yes, this will work with tickets. It is important to understand how paper tears. When it is torn it is not a perfect line like with a razor. It is ragged and depending on the type of paper there can be a lot of fibers showing. It is very similar to a bevel cut like you have with a photo mat except that it is not that sharp. Trying to fit two torn pieces back together is similar to a zipper. There will be small parts on the left that go on top of the right and small parts on the right that go on top of the left. They can be right next to each other and hard to align. It is challenging whether the item is partially torn or fully torn Sometimes you want it perfect. Other times you just want to reinforce it. Patience helps.

Here are the two items I referred to originally:

Document repair tape

repair-tape-1.jpg

Burnishing tool. This is 5" long 1" wide at one end 3/4" wide at the other. The areas marked in blue are curved up which allows you to push it along the tape.

burnishing-1.jpg

Here is a ticket I repaired. It did not need to be perfect. You can still see the tear. This also had a bend at the tear so it does not lay flat. That can be an easy fix. A lightly damp paper towel around the ticket which is placed between two pieces of cardstock. Not box carboard, but like the back of a pad of paper. Then put it in a book press or between some heavy books. I have a nice cast iron book press. Think of the one used by Uncle Fester in 'The Addams Family'. On the back I put the tape all the way up to the word 'viale'. I also put an extra piece along the bottom I scanned it so you could see it. Much harder to detect in person. This is a ticket to the gold medal game.

robertson-1.jpg
robertson-back-1.jpg

Many types of tickets can be repaired though the ones like this are easiest if they are torn along the perforation

60-ticket-1.jpg

You can put together at the perfs and tape on the back. You then use a straight pin or needle to open up the holes. I did this on a Cassius Clay 1960 gold medal boxing ticket. A fellow Olympic dealer had one very cheap that was separated at the perfs. A friend pointed out what it was. I used repair tape on the back and it looked as good as new. I did disclose the repair when I sold it at The National. The ticket shown is for the marathon - Abebe Bikila wins it running barefoot.

It can also be used to reinforce severe folds or bends. I have not done it yet, but I will be doing it to this ticket:

Japan ticket.jpg

I could try to reconnect this ticket, but it is too worn so I may leave it as is.

japan-2-a.jpg

These tickets are from a 1934? track meet in Japan. They belonged to a 1932 Olympic athlete. I got a small group of items of his from the Olympics including his personal autograph album which was signed by not only some rare Olympians (3 or 4 killed in WWII) but also Cecil B DeMille, Jimmy Durante, Will Rogers, Frederic March and Cary Grant.

Some helpful items to have if you are trying to conserve/preserve you paper documents and photos:

Document repair tape

Burnishing tool

Document cleaning pads - This is a small cloth bag with a grit free powder in it. It helps clean mold or dirt off of paper.

stamp tongs - used by stamp collectors they have a rounded end

precision needle point tweezers - like Clauss #3c. Great for helping to unbend small corners that have folded over. Also good when trying to repair a tear. They are also great when you are tryin to remove old glue and paper from the back of an items, especially when using distilled water and cotton swabs

PEC-12 - the best product for cleaning photographs and negatives.

Distilled water - for soaking and cleaning. No chemicals or minerals which can react with the inks.

Isopropyl alcohol - good for cleaning crayon marks on photos. Works somewhat on the gray/black masking. Since it is not water and dissipates it does not cause the damage water will. It is easy to find 70% in Target/CVS and other places. I got my hands on 90% in half gallon jugs.

Cotton swabs - great for use with distilled water to remove old horse glue or when using isopropyl alcohol or PEC-12.