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#1
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See pic, Both Foxx are dirty, the one on the left is dirty and has dots. Also, a few examples of less dirty yellow cards. |
#2
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It's a bit hard to tell much from the small pictures, but there are a few explanations that make sense.
First, the lighter card could be faded. But the red is very similar, and red usually fades first. The next two are related, and may even be combined. I checked a few Goudeys, and the blue is done in two passes, a light one and a dark one. Second, and this is common, the inks were mixed by hand and can vary some depending on how the press operator interpreted the recepie for the exact shade desired. Both blues are lighter than usual. Third, the dark blue may be underinked. The operator can control the amount of ink applied to the plate, and for some reason may have run it light that day. (The water wetting the plate can also be adjusted, with similar results if a bit too much is used. ) |
#3
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about the reprint sets that Ed Brooks (think I have the name right) put out I believe in the sixties? These were advertised as "so good you can't tell the difference" and they sold very, very well. Dealers like Lew Lipset were infuriated as were others. If I can find them, I have copies of the original advertising to confirm.
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#4
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__________________
successful deals with hcv123, rholmes, robw1959, Yankees1964, theuclakid, Brian Van Horn, h2oya311, thecapeleague, Gkoz316, chesbro41, edjs, wazoo, becollie, t206kid, vintageismygame, Neal, bradmar48, iconsportscards, wrapperguy, agrebene, T3fan, T3s, ccre, Leon, wolf441, cammb, tonyo, markf31,gonzo,scmavl & others currently working on: E101 (33/50) T3 set (104/104), complete! T205 set (108/221) '33 Goudey collecting W600s, Walter Johnson |
#5
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![]() Quote:
My line of thinking is similar to what you describe, the red would fade first and I assume the blue would fade more evenly. Also, the outline of his figure is more narrow than usual, possibly due to less ink or a missed pass. |
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