1972 Topps Baseball High Numbers Pricing

[Tere1071]

I'm working on completing my 1972 semi-high and high number series. Currently, there's an auction on eBay that I have multiple bids. I need the Bobby Murcer, but it's shot up to $65.00 and according to past auction results it may go over $100.00. There are several others that command high than normal prices as well on a consistent basis. Are these particular cards short-printed, or is there another reason?

[toppcat]

Originally Posted by Tere1071

I'm working on completing my 1972 semi-high and high number series. Currently, there's an auction on eBay that I have multiple bids. I need the Bobby Murcer, but it's shot up to $65.00 and according to past auction results it may go over $100.00. There are several others that command high than normal prices as well on a consistent basis. Are these particular cards short-printed, or is there another reason?

They've always been popular with collectors. When I set up at local shows in the late 80's you could never keep then in the showcase, even the commons. It's hard to compare with the 71's due to the edge issues on those but from 1968-73 they have always been the most sought after in my experience.

[G1911]

Definitely the most sought over series in the 70’s. I made a mistake by building a 72 Topps set instead of buying one complete, individual highs go for a lot. I still need most of them, and may not finish 72 because I’m not confident they are really worth the price for 70’s Topps cards. Not many bargains to be had with them, demand always seems consistently strong across the grading spectrum.

[marzoumanian]

You don't make in clear, Phil, if it is graded or ungraded. I checked eBay just now and saw a 72 Murcer in NM-MT (and ungraded) going for $66. That could be the one you are talking about. As an aside, it looks real nice BUT personally I don't buy a card on eBay that has not been graded.
My quick advice? Buy it with a plan. By that I mean, set a price you will not go past (say, $90). Know your budget. If you win, great. If not, others will come along in just as nice condition, I assure you. Patience is key when you're buying. I'm 65 and waiting does pay off. Peace and good luck.

[JollyElm]

None of the cards were short-printed, but there are a couple of other factors involved. A whole bunch of them are extremely tough to find centered, so centered versions sell for huge premiums. Problem is, other sellers see what similar-shaped cards have sold for (without taking into account the centering), and they list their OC cards for the same exorbitantly high prices (and/or auctions escalate to similar levels). Those prices aren't based on the real market, but they are what they are. There is also the New York factor, where the high numbered Yankees (including Bobby Murcer) and Mets (for instance, Koosman IA, who is hard to find centered) seemingly always do better than the usual commons or semi-stars, in my experience.

[Tere1071]

Thank you for the responses. Several things: I do plan out what I am attempting to purchase. Second, I am collecting the 1970-1972 sets unslabbed. They don't have to be perfectly centered as long as they're not miscut. For me, I want reasonably sharp corners with no creases.

[jakeinge]

Originally Posted by JollyElm

None of the cards were short-printed, but there are a couple of other factors involved. A whole bunch of them are extremely tough to find centered, so centered versions sell for huge premiums. Problem is, other sellers see what similar-shaped cards have sold for (without taking into account the centering), and they list their OC cards for the same exorbitantly high prices (and/or auctions escalate to similar levels). Those prices aren't based on the real market, but they are what they are. There is also the New York factor, where the high numbered Yankees (including Bobby Murcer) and Mets (for instance, Koosman IA, who is hard to find centered) seemingly always do better than the usual commons or semi-stars, in my experience.

I wasn't alive when this set was issued, but I know people who were, and they have told me the 72 highs were very difficult (but not impossible) to find in Minnesota.

[Gorditadogg]

Originally Posted by marzoumanian

You don't make in clear, Phil, if it is graded or ungraded. I checked eBay just now and saw a 72 Murcer in NM-MT (and ungraded) going for $66. That could be the one you are talking about. As an aside, it looks real nice BUT personally I don't buy a card on eBay that has not been graded.

My quick advice? Buy it with a plan. By that I mean, set a price you will not go past (say, $90). Know your budget. If you win, great. If not, others will come along in just as nice condition, I assure you. Patience is key when you're buying. I'm 65 and waiting does pay off. Peace and good luck.

I think Phil got the answers he wanted, so I hope he won't mind if I take this thread off-course.

I think if you want to buy a card, you should be prepared to pay the market price for it. If you set a budget of $60 for a $90 card, you are going to end up with either a crappy card or no card. And while you are waiting patiently for a magic deal, the card you passed up at $90 is going up, getting farther out of range.

Shaking your fist at the market is not going to make prices come down. Certain cards are expensive for a reason. You just need to accept that and spend your money.



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[Tere1071]

Since the first post in this discussion, I have finished the 1972 set, mostly in ex-mint condition. I have some upgrading to do, but I don't have any cards that are less than very good to excellent, so I can live with what I have. I have now turned my attention to the 1971 set; mostly upgrading with better-centered cards- 99 needed in total. Yes, Al, I agree with you and please continue with your shift from the initial discussion.

Phil aka Tere1071

Complete 1953 Bowman Color, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, and 1975 Topps Baseball sets under revision as the budget and wife allows

Under construction:
1970 Topps Baseball - missing over 100 cards, mostly after #450 and the three insert sets

1971 Topps Coins- 107/153

1974 Topps Baseball Washington variations

[raulus]

Originally Posted by Gorditadogg

I think Phil got the answers he wanted, so I hope he won't mind if I take this thread off-course.

I think if you want to buy a card, you should be prepared to pay the market price for it. If you set a budget of $60 for a $90 card, you are going to end up with either a crappy card or no card. And while you are waiting patiently for a magic deal, the card you passed up at $90 is going up, getting farther out of range.

Shaking your fist at the market is not going to make prices come down. Certain cards are expensive for a reason. You just need to accept that and spend your money.



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Either that or decide it's not worth it, and move on to something else.

Dealer's choice!

[Marchillo]

I built the 72 set mostly over the last two years. Finished a couple months ago. I don’t remember the Murcer being difficult. In fact I don’t remember it at all. So I checked to make sure I had it. The Cey RC was a tough one although I think I have two of them now. The Carews are tough, that Koosman IA was also tough. I guess this is one of the toughest binder pages from the 70’s.




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[mintacular]

Cey "The Penguin" def. pricey, Dempsey a small sleeper but nothing crazy. A couple other "triple rookie" high numbers a bit more. No technical short print/confusion unlike 71 which is sort of a roller coaster of prices within the high series.... The traded cards of HOFers (Maz, F. Rob. Morgan, Carlton, etc.) obviously more expensive. The 72 set is the ultimate "the price of the whole is not worth the sum of the parts" type of set which is why dealers like to buy these sets cheap and break it up.... There is a nice thread somewhere on this net54 universe that explains which vintage sets have best breakup value and 72 is high, '69 is not for example....As has been stated 72 centering is almost always off so one that is well centered both ways is quite desirable