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#1
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It's not against any law to restore something and then mark it restored. Although I don't like the idea, it's exactly on par with SGC offering the ability to cut cards and then grade them with a "sheet cut" designation. The market will adjust accordingly, and cards like that may sell for what a nice looking PSA AUTH sells for, in the PSA 2-4 price range.
People are going to commit fraud, and if they alter cards as a business model and then catch the alterations if they are submitted later to them, they're doing the right thing. If they alter the cards and then cannot tell they're altered and give them grades on the unaltered scoring chart, there will be major issues. Does SGC still offer to cut your cards for you?
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-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
#2
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Restoration is dumb, IMO, in most cases. But it's also very detectable on comics, so i don't see why it wouldn't be for cards.
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~20 SUCCESSFUL BST (1 trade) on Net54 |
#3
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I know there's a portion of the hobby that's skeptical of the grading companies, and what they've slabbed and let through, throughout the years.
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#4
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Restoration almost caught on with cards in the early 90's, but what did instead was professional grading.
To me, the fear that restored cards being accepted could then lead to said cards being busted from slabs and thereby adding an additional dimension of confusion to the current alteration scandal mess with TPG's is silly. The answer to this all along has been more individual collector responsibility and knowledge, and demands of accountability out of hobby partners like graders. PSA and other TPG's have largely gone unimpacted by the events of 2018 - present with the scandal because at the end of the day, there is not a quorum of hobbyists who give a good godd@amn. At the end of the day what matters is that you are satisfied with your cards as a hobby / investment. Don't buy examples that might be suspect of fraud or alteration - or even restoration - if you don't like that. Short of TPG's investing a ridiculous amount of time, money, and resources in a move towards becoming something more like forensic examiners than people who rate pieces of cardboard on a 1-10 scale (not ever going to happen...), collectors who care know they are responsible for this anyway.
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. Last edited by jchcollins; 01-06-2021 at 09:29 AM. |
#5
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is this grading company going to debut?
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#6
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I don't believe there is a definitive date with everything going on, but I believe they're supposed to be grading at least starting this year. The Restoration, who knows if it happens. With them offering a comic restoration service though, it wouldn't surprise me in the slightest, if they eventually take on restoring cards.
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Successful Deals With: charlietheexterminator, todeen, tonyo, Santo10fan Bocabirdman (5x), 8thEastVB, JCMTiger, Rjackson44 Republicaninmass, 73toppsmann, quinnsryche (2x), Donscards. |
#7
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First, I wouldn't do this.
However, Let's not forget that there are all different levels of restoration, even for art. Soaking glue and adhesive off the backs of cards is restoration. No one objects to that when it's done right. With the money that has flowed into our hobby it's almost ignorance to believe the same people who restore their artwork, classic cars, and jewelry wouldn't take the same opportunity to restore their cards. An investment in the eyes of many needs to be maintained or improved.
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Barry Larkin, Joey Votto, Tris Speaker, 1930-45 Cincinnati Reds, T206 Cincinnati Successful deals with: Banksfan14, Brianp-beme, Bumpus Jones, Dacubfan (x5), Dstrawberryfan39, Ed_Hutchinson, Fballguy, fusorcruiser (x2), GoCalBears, Gorditadog, Luke, MikeKam, Moosedog, Nineunder71, Powdered H20, PSU, Ronniehatesjazz, Roarfrom34, Sebie43, Seven, and Wondo |
#8
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Very early experts marked the back of the stamp with their mark, a practice that has been fading for decades and is now pretty much gone. Certificates began sometime before 1930. A similar service for cards wouldn't be all that difficult. |
#9
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Yeah, they could use a glue or ink or paper that fluoresces under black light, as part of their restoration.
__________________
-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
#10
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I meant that current TPG's have no market incentive to do this, so why would they? Aside from the noise that has been made on Blowout and here and in a few other spots, other collectors and investors largely don't care about the alteration scandal.
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#11
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My club had a talk by an expertiser, and while most of what he talked about was stuff I knew, there were some things I had never heard of. Like one of the 1870's-80's papers being detectable because it's ever so slightly flourescent under a blacklight. There's an outfit that's doing some very advanced work studying stuff like color and paper scientifically. Someday I hope Something like X-ray diffraction is available affordably enough for hobbyists. https://www.analyticalphilately.org/index.php But a blacklight usable for cards is around $10, and decent magnifiers and measuring tools can be had for well under $100 total. Going with a really good dual range blacklight, magnifier and measuring tool would be possible for under 500. |
#12
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Why even have a grading scale if nobody cares? What's the point of it all? |
#13
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If they see it as a profitable venture – which it almost certainly would be – then they will eventually roll out the service. I know that I have raw cards that I wouldn't mind having touched up for a small fee, just to make my overall display look a bit nicer.
The only way for them to do this right would be to mark the card itself in some way. UV-reactive ink would be the best choice, though a small printmark might be the simplest way (and making it harder to crack, say, a restored Cobb and sell it raw, as there's significant value even without a TPG). |
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