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#1
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Yes. As I see you edited your comment which appears in my email. I post with conviction, but am not above correcting myself. Sorry if I roused your ire.
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Prewar Cubs. Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. Last edited by jchcollins; 11-17-2020 at 06:51 PM. |
#2
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I've only sent cards to SGC, back when a rejected card that you didn't have slabbed as "A" came with an explanation.
had one come back min size, Short top to bottom, but factory or they'd have written trimmed. (also had one come back "trimmed all four sides... obviously didn't look too closely at that one before sending it) This one has very rough cuts top and bottom, not trimming, but not typical, so rejected. This one has weird cuts, caused by debris in the stack of sheets being cut, or on the sacrificial strip in the cutter. I really doubt anyone would give it a number. Consider also that despite being "experts" they won't grade Sets that are difficult - Star basketball, Fro-Joy Ruth... Cards that aren't in a published guide. (when there sort of isn't a guide anymore... ) Pretty much anything they think is "too difficult" It's all about appearances, and limiting the chances of them looking foolish even if they're right. |
#3
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Here's one I've been wondering about. Top and bottom borders are on a substantial, but parallel slant. The vertical edges run straight. Anyone know if this is legit, and if so, how does this particular miscut occur?
Thanks |
#4
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I imagine the standard cutting process chops the cards first into horizontal rows, and then those rows are cut into individual cards. So, a total of two groups of cuts are done. Since the sides of the pictured card are straight, it would seem one of the cut sequences had the sheet on a slight angle or something, and that's what led to it being non-rectangular.
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All the cool kids love my YouTube Channel:
Elm's Adventures in Cardboard Land ![]() https://www.youtube.com/@TheJollyElm Looking to trade? Here's my bucket: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152396...57685904801706 “I was such a dangerous hitter I even got intentional walks during batting practice.” Casey Stengel Spelling "Yastrzemski" correctly without needing to look it up since the 1980s. Overpaying yesterday is simply underpaying tomorrow. ![]() |
#5
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These odd angled cuts are a good place to start when detecting trimmed cards. You'll see it on many cards, although that Young is a little more on the extreme side it's perfectly fine. When you see a little bit of an odd angle just look at the other end to make sure that they are parallel, then by looking at the corners you can tell the other sides are good too. With that Young, you have a parallel top and bottom and perfectly worn and even corners, which is good. On some issues, funky cuts are more prevalent than others. Look at cards closely, especially from this era, and you'll realize it's more common than you think. A lot of times it's just minor though. Some people stay away from cards like that Young, but I think it's kind of neat because it tells a story of the process.
Here is a random example from Ebay that shows the same thing going on, albeit in a much more subtle manner. There is a downward, but parallel, slant from left to right on both top and bottom. Last edited by oldeboo; 11-19-2020 at 06:35 AM. |
#6
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Parallel slants are frequently seen with respect to pre-War cards:
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Seeking very scarce/rare cards for my Sam Rice master collection, e.g., E210 York Caramel Type 2 (upgrade), 1931 W502, W504 (upgrade), W572 sepia, W573, 1922 Haffner's Bread, 1922 Keating Candy, 1922 Witmor Candy Type 2 (vertical back), 1926 Sports Co. of Am. with ad & blank backs. Also 1917 Merchants Bakery & Weil Baking cards of WaJo. Also E222 cards of Lipe, Revelle & Ryan. |
#7
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https://www.net54baseball.com/attach...1&d=1605877964
https://www.net54baseball.com/attach...1&d=1605877995 |
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