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#1
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+1
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
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Barry Larkin, Joey Votto, Tris Speaker, 1930-45 Cincinnati Reds, T206 Cincinnati Successful deals with: Banksfan14, Brianp-beme, Bumpus Jones, Dacubfan (x5), Dstrawberryfan39, Ed_Hutchinson, Fballguy, fusorcruiser (x2), GoCalBears, Gorditadog, Luke, MikeKam, Moosedog, Nineunder71, Powdered H20, PSU, Ronniehatesjazz, Roarfrom34, Sebie43, Seven, and Wondo |
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#2
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Doesn't have to me one or the other, you can have a mix. Most of my higher end stuff is graded but many sub $100 cards in screwdowns or mags
Last edited by mintacular; 09-14-2020 at 02:41 PM. |
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#3
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All of my sets are raw... outside of that my collection is pre/post war type cards...those that cost a lot are usually graded (talking over $500)….others are kept loose in sleeves...
for me ..depends on the value...I wouldn't go out of my way to get graded cards that are mid/low grade and plentiful...unless they are ones that have significant demand (ex.. Ruth, Gehrig, Mantle or HOF rookie cards) in the resell market...or you can buy them really cheap. Ricky Y |
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#4
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Like a lot of guys I like my cards raw. But like a lot of old guys I have to think about ease of sale and value for my heirs.
So, if you're looking for advice, here's some from a guy who didn't start submitting cards for grading until he was in his late 60's: Have all pre-war HOFers and high demand cards graded regardless of condition. Have all 1950's and 1960's legitimate superstars graded: J. Robinson, Paige, Aaron, Mantle, Williams, a few others. Only submit 70's and 80's stars and rookies if you're pretty sure you'll pull at least a grade of 8. There are lots of exceptions, I can name dozens myself, but these broad guidelines have served me well.
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Baseball cards will get you through times of no money better than money will get you through times of no baseball cards.--The Fabulous Furry Freak Bros. (paraphrased) |
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